I've got an '04 Tacoma with V6, that has a slow coolant leak.

It's got 177,000. miles on it.

The local shop did a pressure test to see where it was leaking, and they say its either in intake manifold gasket, or a head gasket, and they think it's the head gasket.

They said it would be $900. to $3,400. to fix it, depending on what they find when they tear into it.

They said it would be best to do a valve job on it, while they are in that far.

I haven't had to add any coolant in the last 200-300 miles, so it's not leaking bad.

I can get a complete NEW long block put in for $7,000.

Am wondering if maybe I should just run it 'till it "pukes" then put $7,000. in it, rather that spend $3,400. now, and end up having the bottom end go in a few years?

Thanks for your thoughts! Virgil B.

Have you ever had the water pump, hoses and belt kit put in. They are recommended every 100K . About $400 for a shop to do it.I did mine at 120K. It had a small drip in the water pump. Certain Toyota engines are interference types that if you belt goes the valves wreck the top end. I don't think the 2004,V6 is one of them. Mine is not . ( I don't know much about that though)

You ought to get 300k + miles out of that bottom end.

Does that $7K include the head ,etc?

I would get a 2nd opinion. Last year on a 98 Dodge, 24 valve Cummins, I had the head gasket, full valve job, head shaved, new radiator and hoses for $6K

I have an 2005 tundra.....same thing at 270,000 miles...….put stop leak in it.....just shy of 325,000 now...….bob

Does the exhaust steam when it's warmed up? Does the engine oil have a chocolate milk shake appearance? How about the radiator - is the coolant the correct color or milky? There are kits to test the antifreeze to see if the head gasket is leaking combustion gases. If your shop doesn't or can't figure out where the leak is, find a different shop.

If the headgasket is leaking, I'd get it fixed rather than "waiting" for the whole thing to let go.

It is pretty evident if the head gasket is leaking as what tominboise posts. I also saw bubbles on the dip stick that not oil. Antifreeze was sludge. Oil dip stick showed above full .

There are a couple leak stoppers on the market that work well and won't cause problems.
Not the dry stopleak crap. But it comes in a quart can, and works very well
on slow leaks, even headgasket. An older one was made by DuPont, but there are a
couple more now. They run over $50 dollars. I have seen several vehicles with it,
either bunkers with nothing to lose, or decent vehicles where the owner c ouldnt fix it
right, right now. They ran for years without any more issues.

If you change the coolant, they will start leaking again.

I had the timing belt and water pump changed a 100,000. miles.

There is no water, or bubbling in the oil or on the dipstick.

The coolant/antifreeze looks normal. No discoloration.

No steam coming from the exhaust pipe.

I'm thinking I'll just keep on running it, and keep an eye on the coolant level and oil.

Part of the repair cost would be replacing the timing belt/water pump while they were in there, which I plan on doing at 200,000. miles.

Wanted to add; It uses about 1/2 quart between 5,000. mile oil changes, so, well withing normal ranges.

Thanks for the feedback! Virgil B.

The new long block I was quoted $7,000 on, is complete with new heads.

Sounds pretty reasonable compared to $3400 to rebuild my old heads, etc.

Virgil B.

Pull some oil and do an oil analysis, and pull some coolant, and do a coolant analysis. For under $100, you'll know what's what.

I'd also get a second opinion. "doing the valves"? on a Toy? Someone might be looking for work.....

I know it sounds intimidating, but if you can turn a wrench and have some patients replacing heads isn't really all that difficult.

Few choice words now and again, but you can rent/borrow most of the specialty tools if needed.

Didn't look all that close, but there's a place in clear-water Florida (Odessa cylinder heads) that you can buy new or re manufactured from. I've had pretty good luck through them. Cheaper than having a machine shop do the same work, typically.

OH - And if you ever plan to have your engine actually torn down, stay away from the gasket fixes in a can. All chit stuff, even the better ones (in my opinion). Might buy some time, but a complete mess when you tear into them.

Thanks again for all the advice!

I'm not going to jump into any repairs right now. I'm going to think hard on this before I make a decision.

Virgil B.

I know when mine goes, I'll just look on craigslist and buy one (a complete engine) for $1,000.00...

If it’s leaking coolant to the outside, which is possible, you’re not going to see anything strange in the oil or the cooling system, and oil analysis won’t tell you anything. It could be a slow enough seep that will evaporate before leaving anything on the ground. In the case of a V engine, it could leak into the valley under the intake manifold and not be visible until the manifold is removed.

badger;

It is leaking on the outside of the engine, but only with a pressure test.

Still haven't had to add any coolant in the last 500 miles, so it's leaking very slowly.

I'm going to continue keeping an eye on it for a while.

Virgil B.