Ok so i got a offer to go on a elk hunt next year. Well living in the east and only deer hunt the biggest i got is 30-06. So if you was going to get a gun for elk hunting what caliber would you get. I was thinking 300 win mag,300wsm,7mm rem mag,or possibly 7mm rem ultra mag. I had been considering picking up a sendero but that seems a little heavy for elk hunting. Just looking for some advice.

Dance with the one ya got....

How much money are you looking to spend? Many many good/great choices out there....I'm not going to say your 30-06 will work wonderfully on elk because you may have a wife that reads it....You need a new rifle for sure. Can you shoot a magnum cartridge well? How much time do you put into shooting rifles? Here's a great thread you may want to look thru:
http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/7117313/1

+10

Use what you've got and put the money into good glass, good boots, shooting practice, and other items you'll need for the hunt.

Bob

30-06 will be fine.

Save the cash for something else that will be more useful on the hunt like binos or good clothing, if you don't have stuff like that already.

Ditto

You guys know he's probably got a wife looking at this. Now he's [bleep]......No new rifle for him now....

If a 30-06 can't get it, it can't be got.

So 180 grain 30-06 get it done what would be the farthest that rifle caliber could ethically take and elk. Trying to figure how far out to practice 500 yards????

sure. ok....

You should not even need to make a 500 yard shot, not at all.

The .30-06 w/good bullets, good scope, and a good hunter driving it all will do just fine. Proven many times over, year after year all over the west.

Now - if you're just looking for an excuse to buy another rifle, that's a different thing!

I'd put my effort into being in good physical condition, doing a fair bit of marksmanship practice, getting some good binoculars and a good scope if not already on hand, and learning as much about elk as possible between now and then.

The good old '06 is very capable, and even more so with high quality bullets.

Looking forward to your hunt report!

Guy

Use your 06 and not look back.A 150gr Nosler E Tip is a good choice for a elk bullet.

You've got a 30-06. The rifle is way down your priority list.

If he can handle a magnum, I think he needs a good ol 338 win mag...

+1

Why?

Why not have another rifle????? Can't have too many can you???

In that respect nope a fella can't.

I dont think im looking for a 338

I'm in agreement with you guys and since the OP isn't looking for a good magnum like a 338 win mag he should just use what he's got. I've been using the good ol 30-06 since I was 12 and it sure works.......He really wouldn't be gaining chit over it by switching to the ones on his list....

The 30.06 is a very good all around cartridge. When loaded properly, it will kill elk nicely.

If you want a dedicated "Elk Rifle", move up to a .32cal+ Magnum range. 325 WSM, 8mm REM mag, .338 Win Mag, .375 Ruger, ect.

Medium contour barrel, with a scope in the 2.5-8 to 4.5-14 range. This will give you a medium weight slugger that will serve you well in a variety of western NA hunting conditions.

So i wouldn't gain anything by going to a 300 win mag?

I will caveat my earlier post in that if your current 30-06 is a boat anchor heavy rifle, I'd go get a lighter 30-06. The mountains are steep and long and the oxygen is scarce. I'll defer the 300WM questions to those who have used it.

With a 180gr bullet, you gain about 200 FPS over the 30.06. It's not really enough difference to leave "old reliable" back home and buy a new rifle.

If you want to make a difference, step up your bore diameter and bullet weight, while maintaining your velocity. A .338 Win Mag will throw a 225gr bullet about the same velocity that an .06 throws a 180gr bullet. That's why the .338 is one of the more popular "Elk Rifles" in this part of the country.

Getting in shape will be way more important than the rifle you shoot. Depending on where you end up hunting, most of the elk hunting we do is over 5,000 feet elevation and sometimes much higher. Colorado can be MUCH higher than that. If you've never hunted in elevation it can take some getting used to. No matter how great of shape you are in, the first few days will kick your butt while you acclimate, so try to get there a day or so early to get your wind built up.
Then, take some good glass, find a great place to see elk, and look it over real good. If necessary, move to another good place and look it over, repeat as necessary.

A magnum rifle is way down the list, but if you're going to buy a dedicated rifle a 300 WM is a good choice but really only gives you 150-200 yards over the 06 you've got now, which should reach out to 400-500 yards with practice. If you do everything else right, you won't need it. If you do need the extra, shooting practice will make up most of it- good bullets will make up the rest.

If you really want a new rifle, and I would never stand in the way of a want/need like that, the 338 WM is a more logical step up IMHO. Who knows, going west for elk this year- maybe you'll hunt moose or go to Africa in a couple years? The .338 is a dandy round for moose and African game.

Bob

The proper question is: would you gain anything by going to a new rifle?

What is your .30-06?

If I owned, say, one of the older Browning BARs that weigh in at 9-10lbs with a scope on board, I'd probably think about a different rifle.

But to buy a new one just for the sake of getting a .300 is not something I'd do.

The fact that you're worried about 500 yard shots is not enough of a reason.

.270win

Seriously, these guys are all spot on. Countless elk have been taken with an '06. If you gotta 'gear up' for the hunt, buy some serious 8 or 10x binos that are in the price range of a new rifle and scope.

I'm, in full agreement that this is fully adequate.....spend a few dollars on optics and other gear like rangefinder or high quality boots or maybe a better scope for your .30-06.....one with LR reticule.

But the best advice so far has come from those that have advised to get yourself in good working order...the mountains can be hard on you and you will need to be in tip top shape.

The last one I got was a .30-06....They have killed some for me. I have used .308's and .338's as well.

Recommend you buy a pile of ammunition and practice with the one you have.

..If your feet hurt due to improper footwear, if you can't consistently hit a pie plate at 300 yds from a field position, if your optics aren't sturdy, repeatable, and clear, and if your bino's won't gather enough light the first and last half hour of the day, and, if you can't get to the top of the hill, the magnum will be of little use.

Assuming the above items are A-ok and you can put a bullet into a five gallon bucket every time at five hundred yards, the magnum .30 will buy you fifty to a hundred yards which IMO is not enough advantage over the Old Warrior.

If you just have to have another rifle (), I'd look to the 338s for a real, practical difference but now we are adding another degree of difficulty in becoming proficient and adding more weight too. Also all elk hunts aren't created eual in terms of difficulty. Most are physiclly challenging and the others are worse.

Ive seen way too many 200 grain speer and 190 grain hornady bullets Ive reloaded for guys in our elk hunting group,fired from 30/06 caliber rifles, kill more than enough elk to have any doubts about the combos effect on elk.
Id concentrate on rifle practice from field positions, and getting into shape, rather than buying a new rifle.

http://www.speer-bullets.com/ballistics/detail.aspx?id=103
49 grains of WW760 under that 200 speer works fine in many 30/06



you simply sight in at 100 yards off the bench on the yellow dot and have all the shots print over the smaller red dot,when you get out in the field, hold where the light green dot is it will produce a fatal wound out a bit past 300 yards, you sure don,t have to use this method or even agree but I can assure you its resulted in a bunch of dead elk

Im ordering a leupold vx3 either in 3.5-10-40 or 4.5-14-40 in cds so scope should be covered.

Once the orange army hits the woods, the elk, at least where I hunt, are typically found in some thick stuff. Whichever one you get, I'll bet it spends more time at 3.5 or 4.5 than anywhere else. Clearly, there are areas much more open than where I hunt though.

Well that may be but 14 guys went on the trip this year 11 of them killed i know two of them there shot's were 550 yards the other ones were diferent yardage anywhere from 200-500. I just want to be prepared i may go and shoot one at 50 yards but i would like to practice consistently out to 500 at the range

Take your 06, find your best load with either a 165 or 180 gr bullet, and concetrate on hitting what you're aiming at.

Thanks for the info from everyone

I can vouch for the 06. 165gr partition put my 1st elk down cleanly at 435 yards. +1000 on practice. I had spent a couple days every month all summer shooting out to 400 yards before I went and it worked.

Your '06 if plenty fine to 600yds with the right bullet. If suggest a Barnes 150 TTSX either in their factory VorTX ammo line or handloaded to 3000fps. Spend money on practice ammo and, even better yet, a shooting course geared to hunters. 500yds will quickly become a chip-shot.

Funny, no one new to elk hunting asks what binoculars they should use, they always ask what cartridge they should use.

It's a natural question and one I totally understand, but good bins are far more important than the rifle and that's where I'd put my money.

What bins should I get for elk hunting...


Dober

Your 30.06 with good bullets will work fine. I'm partial to Nosler Partitions (165 or 180 grain). Spend your money on a top quality pair of boots and the best binos you can afford (8x or 10x). You will be using the boots and binos a lot more than you will use the rifle. Practice, practice, practice at long range, 200 to 400 yards and get real confortable with your rifle. If you are looking for an excuse to buy a new rifle, a lightweight 300 Win Mag would be perfect with 180 or 200 grain partitions. And have fun, elk hunting is the ultimatre adventure for anyone who does not live in "elk country".

Look no further unless you have the cash and desire to buy something else. If so, my choice would be a 300WSM. But I really think you'd be better off evaluating your equipment such as boots, optics and pack. Maybe a specific kind of outwear depending on the conditions you expect. But don't buy in the hype on some threads here that you need some fancy new rifle.
Good luck.

A good GPS, compass, laminated maps, lightweight backpack, better sleeping bag, riflescope to make 500-yard shots realistic (3-9 Conquest with Rapid Z600), shooting sticks, new gutting knives, binos, boots, socks, lightweight rain shell, etc, etc......

We can spend your money all day long!

The best you can afford... then stretch some more.

IMO

Being from the east and having been on 2 western hunts, my opinion would be....keep the 30-06, buy a good set of binos, a good set of boots, and a mountain bike. Ride the bike as far as you can every day, walk as far as you can every day, and don't fret a new rifle.

Thanks for the advice i guess keep the rifle and put the leupold cds on it and try to get some good binos

I can attest to the stopping power of a 180 grain 30-06 reaching out to at least 385 yards. I nailed a black wildebeest with one holding at the top of the shoulder and it never took another step. They are as tough or tougher than a North American Elk.

An 06 can kill an elk at 500 but hitting it fairly is another story. My longest shot in 50 years of hunting came this fall with a 350 yd kill on a cow. At that range, the bullet is dropping fast and you really need a good rangefinder. Guessing the difference between 300 & 350 across a draw is iffy at best and it means a difference in bullet drop of maybe 8 to 10". If you guess wrong, you're going to wound it or miss entirely.

I just checked a ballistic table for a 180 gr bullet with a BC of .50 starting at 2800 fps. With a 200 yd zero, it'll drop 20" at 400 yds and 41" at 500. Can you estimate 41' at that range? How tall is an elk?

I went on my first elk hunt this year out by Craig, CO. Took a 5x6 at 40 yards with my 30-06 and 180 gr NP. He folded where he stood..............I'm still smiling.

Kurt

You can shoot at em as far as you want but I'm going to hold the shooting at 400 yards.....there's just too much air around them past that range to make me comfortable with a longer shot.

We all have limitations and most of ours fall short in comparison to the effective range of the '06 when loaded with the proper bullets.....Hell yes the 06 works, but it's boring that's why I use my 338.....

Like others have said, spend the money on high quality binos (I would suggest 10X42 - I bought a pair of swarovski SLC for $900 and it included the tripod mount), a tripod, boots, and get in good physical shape. The 30-06 is plenty good to get it done.

Yea, good glass (particulary bino's) > good shape physically > good boots and appropriate clothes > rifle and chambering. By far.

Already decided on my 30-06. Got the boots, binoculars and clothes. I've hunted deer in the west, but decided that if I'm driving that far I'll pay a little more for an elk tag next time. Had a trip planned for this Fall, but things just did not work out. Maybe next Fall.

I'm undecided on the bullet.

I've experimented with the follwing handloads.

150 TTSX @ 3000 fps
165 Hornady Interlock @ 2900 fps
180 Hornady Interlock @ 2800 fps

All three loads consistently group around .75" @ 100 yards. Often closer to .5"

I use the 165 to hunt here in GA and am tempted to just use the same load for elk. I'm open to try other bullets and have just bought a box of 180 Accubonds. First range trip with those loads produced 1"-1.5" groups. Tweaking things might produce better accuracy.

What do the experts say.

Very cool, and congratulations. Hope it's the first of many...

I'm a real Partition fan. Every 30-06 rifle I've shot them in they went into .75" groups or less with little load work. Results on game have been great. I would use the 180 Partition on Elk as my first choice, possibly the TTSX, but in a 165 for elk.

I could be wrong, but I believe that most bullet manufacturers build the lighter .30 caliber bullets (such as the 150) with a thinner jacket to open up on lighter game such as deer. I believe the heavier bullets- 165, 180, 200, 220, are built with a heavier jacket and heavier cup to handle the extra expansion of heavier skinned animals. This would not apply to the "monolithic" bullets such as the Barnes X and the TSX, IMHO. I could be wrong, and if I am I'm sure someone will correct me, but that is the logic I've used for a great many years and I've seen results on game to confirm my theories.

Bob

My experience with the 165 interloc bullet, accounting for somewhere around a dozen elk, broadside at 200 yds or less behind the shoulder it's a complete pass thru, thru the near side shoulder , bullet was most often a lump on the far side, over 250 bullet was usually found under the hide on the far side. Shot two different bulls in the neck at around 125 yds, both times it blew a hole in the vertebrae you could put your fist thru. Had one bull on a severe angle about 225 yds nearly straight up, bullet entered the sternum , up thru the heart and lungs and broke the spine...
Yup them interlocs work just fine.

I'd consider buying a 30-06 just to shoot 180 Partitions at all things great and small.

What is wrong with that? You don't need anything else. If you simply WANT another gun get a 300 WSM. It's simply a 30-06 Improved.

Your 150gr TTSX will still retain more weight than a 180 Partition or a 180 Accubond. HEll sounds like a damn 300win mag to me! I love the 150TTSX in my -06.

pseshooter300 -

Lots of good advice above. I particularly like what Brad said - good binocs are a better investment. For years I hunted with a small set of binocs that fit in my side pocket, convinced I wasn't missing anything. Then I got bigger, better binocs and saw what I'd been missing. While I still don't have top pf the line glass, I'm much better off now.

Good boots are a plus, too. Well fitting, comfortable, waterproof and warm gets my vote.

The rifle doesn't matter much. I've killed elk with a 7m RM (lost count), .30-06, and .300WM. Not much difference between those three if one were to ask the elk. Bullet choice is more important to me than cartridge choice. A .308 Win and I'd hunt happily. Your .30-06 is fine.

That said, don't let anyone talk you out of another rifle. Take both and you'll have a backup.

I am gonna +1 on a lot of the above

make sure you have a Good Scope - good optics, might need to shoot at last legal, maybe not....

good binos

good range finder

spend $$ shooting more ammo, know your rifle out to 300 yards or out to 1500 lbs energy

I got my only Elk with a PSE bow by the way ... 2 years ago in New Mexico 1st elk hunt.

got a muley this year with a 270 WSM standing off hand shot 245 yards - bang, big as a horse, New mexico.

30-06 is fine if you can shoot it.

If I were you ---- I'd get in shape, I was able to train by hiking to 10,000 + feet up a local mtn -- that ain't in Tenn - I'm originally from Chas SC so I know. you need to be ready for hiking in the mountains. train in some rain, you can do that for sure ....

Three of my last 6 elk were taken with a .30-06:
165g North Fork @ 125 yards = straight down (2007)
165g North Fork @ 40 yards = straight down (2007)
150g AccuBond @ 262 yards = straight down (2010)

Two were taken with a .300WM:
180g North Fork @ 2802 yards = struggled for ~25 yards (2006)
180g MRX @ 399 yards = struggled for ~ 15 yards (2012)

One was taken with a .338 WM:
225g AccuBond @ ~260 yards - poor 1st shot (high), kept walking; 2nd shot perfect, kept walking but slowly; 3rd shot within an inch of 2nd (and unnecessary), animal down (2011)

Your .30-06 will be fine.

No expert here but all will work. I've taken about fifteen head of big game with the Xs, TSXss,TTSXs, and an earlier mono- bullet, the name of which I can't remember right now. Having said that, to my way of thinking the 150-gr bullet (monolithic construction not withstanding) is a little light for my tastes in 30 cal. The 165-gr TSX/TTSX/ E-Tip is as light as I'd go in the 30 but I'm not so sure it has an advantage over the others you mentioned. The Interlocks will work fine too. I'm really questioning whether the mono's have much advantage over "good" C&C bullets in standard cartridges, particularly 250 yards and out. In magnums, yes. Of the fifteen head of big game I've taken with mono's, I've recovered three--one from a bull elk at 475 yards (210 grs started at 3100) and then only because on hitting the scapula, it took a left turn and ended up in a ham, barely expanded. This was from a 340 B. Another was from the off side of a thick Burchell's zebra mare taken with a 375 at about 150 yard--a 270 gr TSX started out at 2700 fps and the last (7mm 150-gr) went full length through a heavy mule deer buck ending up in the hide over the right ham. That was from a 284 started at 2900 fps. They do penetrate but if velocity drops off at distance, my experience has me wondering a bit.

With what you've stated so far, I think you're on the right track.

if you have a decent rifle spend money on real good boots that are well broke in befor the hunt,go in with a few guys buy a tent,should be able to get a good used one.get your food togeather,and stop and think about how you will get you elk out of the mountains,have good quality packs.A rifle that you can shoot well is good enough,good mountain boots,good binoculars,spoting scope,so start getting things togeather a little at a time

The 30-06 will do very nicely. 180 Gr loads have proven themselves time and time again on Elk.

Distance is more an issue of your skill level with the gun in question. I would not hesitate go use it at 500 yards myself.

Bino's, boots that you KNOW fit your feet, and a rangefinder. If you've got money leftover, the sky is the limit.

CH, that 300 Win Mag with those North Forks @ 2802 yards man that's spectacular

Randy

The .300 Winchester

by Jack Steele

SAY YOU WANTED to hunt with just one big-game rifle. Have it become an extension of your own body. Know it like the smell of your Dad's wool coat. Say you wanted it in a caliber flat enough to poke coyotes at long distance but powerful enough to make a bull elk take notice at the far end of a cross-canyon shot. Say you wanted it all in one package so you could always count on that one rifle to get the job done. Sound like a pipe dream?

The do-it-all rifle is not a myth, as many a seasoned rifleman knows. In fact, while the gunrags do a healthy business recommending good calibers for this, and best bullet for that, it's a fact that when flying lead doesn't have the intended results, it's the man behind the rifle that's almost certainly to blame. Show me a man who blames a miss on his rifle, and I'll show you a rifleman in need of polish, which leads to the primary reason behind choosing one good rifle -- polished skills.

Of course, the best way to polish skills is by shooting your chosen Betsy often and from real-life shooting positions. A rifle that feels right and doesn't kick like a mule goes a long way toward promoting regular practice. So does reloading for it, which will promote accuracy and increased familiarity.

It goes without saying that a one-rifle battery should be as accurate as possible. In practical terms, however, a 2-MOA rifle is plenty good enough for most big-game hunting. Latch onto a rifle that consistently shoots 1 MOA, and you'll regret the day you part with it. Any big-game rifle more precise than that should be considered an heirloom.

What really gets interesting, however, is deciding on a caliber. Ask five seasoned riflemen for their top choice, and you can expect five different opinions, all vehement, all well reasoned.

The .30-06 is the perennial all-mention, and rightly so; there's no rust on the classic. The .270 Winchester, aside from being a hell of a caliber, was Jack O'Connor's darling (though he admitted the ought-six probably was better) and therefore commands a prodigious following. The .338 Winchester Magnum was a favorite of Elmer Keith and is a superb choice for the steel-shouldered. The 7mm Remington Magnum does a whole lot with class.

Lots of others, most notably the .308 Winchester and the .280 Remington as well as various Weatherby Magnums and a slew of wildcats, can and do fit the bill. But the .300 Winchester Magnum -- the .300 Win. Mag. just might be the best of all! Except for the big brownies, which rate their own .375 H&H Magnum to many minds, the North-American hunter with a good .300 Winny has all the rifle he will ever need. And then some.

So, why not the .30-06? Why not, indeed. The good ol' ought-six is still a top choice. From 'chucks to elk, it is a serious caliber for the serious hunter, no question about it.

There is one area, however, where the ought-six gives up some ground, and that's when it comes to pushing heavy bullets -- the kind you want when big, tough critters like elk and moose are on the program. Yes, the classic .30-06 load pushing a 180-grain pill at 2700-2800 ft/sec will do almost anything you need, but throw in a big bull elk across a wide canyon at dusk, and the Winny gets the nod. Consider that at 400 yards, the Winny's 3100 ft/sec with the same 180-grainer gets you 450 ft/lbs more terminal energy and five inches less drop.

If that weren't telling enough, jump up to the 200-grain rock ,and by today's mega-magnum standards the 2550 ft/sec generated by a .30-06 case can be considered positively lethargic, although for close work in heavy timber, the combination is hard to beat.

By contrast, the Winny pushes the 200-grainer to a speedy 2950 ft/sec with careful reloads. At 400 yards, this translates into almost 700 ft/lbs more terminal energy and a trajectory flattened by 7 inches. That is the kind of difference that makes a difference on tough game.

Bottom line: While the .30-06 still may be the finest all-around caliber, it says here that if elk are in your plans (and elk are increasingly in everyone's plans) the .300 Winchester might be a better choice.

The same analysis applies to the .270 Winchester. By all accounts a hell of a sheep and deer caliber, throw elk into the equation and the .270 becomes marginal. Sure, there are elk hunters who shoot their bull with a .270 every year, but they are the exception. Most of the savvy elk crowd considers the .270 either too small or the absolute bare minimum for wapiti.

Suffice it to say that, at 400 yards, the .270 shooting 130 spitzers and the .300 Win. Mag. shooting 200-grain spitzers have virtually identical trajectories. The difference is that the .270 arrives carrying roughly 1300 ft/lbs of energy (below the 1500 ft/lbs often cited as a minimum for elk) while the Winny will deliver over a ton of energy, almost 2300 ft/lbs What the great .270 is to deer and sheep, the .300 Winny is to elk. Bad medicine.

As to the 7mm Remington Magnum, this fine caliber is often considered to be the ought-six's ballistic clone. The 7-Rem's small advantages in sectional density are offset by the .30-06's increased frontal area. The ought-six has an advantage in that more and heavier bullets are readily available, especially for the handloader, but basically, in the field you could choose one or the other and never notice the difference. So as versatile, accurate, and popular as this .284 is, the .30-06 retains an edge, and the .300 WinMag outclasses them both.

The .338 Winchester Magnum is another thing altogether. By all accounts a large caliber by North-American standards, it has been said that true recoil starts at the .338. A seasoned rifleman who practices regularly certainly should have no trouble handling the .338, but for many casual shooters, the .338 is simply too much rifle to shoot regularly or accurately.

It is noteworthy, however, that in terms of the wide spectrum of game animals available in North America, the .338 is probably the most well centered. A fair choice for the big brown bears (though a .375 H&H is superior for this work by an order of magnitude), the .338 is rightly considered by many as the preeminent elk caliber, while still being plenty flat enough for whitetails, antelope, and even coyotes. Take the big bears out of the equation, however, which they are for the vast majority of hunters, and the .338 becomes a too large shoulder pounder for most weekend warriors, though still optimal for dedicated wapiti chasers. Let face it. You don't need a .338 for any whitetail walking the earth.

By contrast, the beauty of the .300 WinMag is that it is so well suited to the typical range of hunting experiences to be had in North America.

After plains game? 180-grain Ballistic Tips at 3100 ft/sec equal bad mule-deer medicine and devastating performance on pronghorns. The same load is a ringer in "beanfield" situations. Elk and moose in your plans? Load 200-grain Partitions or A-Frames at 2900 ft/sec, and be assured that you have the right gun! Feel like practicing on coyotes or chucks? Scream some 165-grain boattails at 3250 ft/sec, and worry about your end of the rifle.

Like with all calibers, there are situations where a different caliber would be ideal, but for all-around versatility, flat trajectory, and high energy, the .300 Winchester Magnum shines, maybe like no other.

In the end, the choice of an all-around rifle depends on many factors. If you like a gun, you are much more likely to shoot it and shoot it well, so choose a rifle you like. Also, any experienced rifleman knows that where you hit 'em is much more important than what you hit 'em with, so place your emphasis on skills rather than on the size of the rock. But when all that is said and done, take a good hard look at the .300 Winchester.

You may not look any further.

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Pretty much lost me on these two...glad as heck I'm not a savy elk hunter....other wise I'd not have used and seen the .270 used on elk as much as I have over the last 3 decades...grin

And from where I sit, a 338 is pretty much easier to deal with than a 300 but that's just been my experience.

Dober

Dober, reads to me like old Jack considers you an "exceptional" and "seasoned" hunter! Nothing wrong with that!

While I'm sure Jack and others know the difference, it still irritates me when someone calls a cartridge a "caliber" - as Jack Steele did at every opportunity in that article.

There are plenty of folks on here who do the same. Sorta separates the old farts from the newbies!

I think that article was written for questions like the OP had. Interesting none the less IMHBAO.

From the article:
"It goes without saying that a one-rifle battery should be as accurate as possible. In practical terms, however, a 2-MOA rifle is plenty good enough for most big-game hunting. Latch onto a rifle that consistently shoots 1 MOA, and you'll regret the day you part with it. Any big-game rifle more precise than that should be considered an heirloom."

I would get rid of any rifle that wouldn't shoot moa.Most "lowly" factory rifles will shoot moa with a competent shooter , and a little load development. Then again, I have friends that flat out cant shoot no matter how much you try and help...usually nothing to do with the equipment. There are a myriad of calibers that will kill elk , they are not bullet proof.

I would look into lightening up the O6 maybe a new stock and a medium size glass. Elk are pretty big so I don't see a 14x scope as needed or very practical. If your winded you would need a bipod or really solid rest to hold it steady enough to use at anything over 9x.

A gym membership would not be a bad start. And like others said boots, binos and clothes that keep you comfortable are far more important than the cartridge.

Yeah, if only! Saw the error too late to edit it. Should have been 282 yards.

+1. If I had to choose a magnum for a dedicated elk rifle it would surely be the 338 win mag. We know it's not needed, but what the hey it's hard not to be a loony without one...

Plus a bunch.

Hey- I might turn my '06 into a 9.3x62 (is that right?) this winter! You've been running one of those, right BSA?

Dog has it correct. Have you ever shot anything in the field in high mountains with their swirling winds and thermals? Have you ever shot anything in the field up or down mountains? Have you ever shot game without a rest in a stand at 300-400 yards?

There is a whole world of difference between 300 yards and 400 yards! At 500 yards most hunters couldn't hit a circus tent. There'll be a bunch of testosterone bravado attacking what I just posted, but it is good advice. You can take it, or you can chose to ignore it.

Use your 30-06; make an ethical shot out to about 350 yards maximum; get good binos, boots, pack frame, knives, clothing, 3-9 or 3.5-10 scope and go get your elk.

The other 1/2 of hunting is stalking and getting close enough for a decent shot. A well designed 180 grain bullet will hit harder out at 300-400 yards than a 165 grain on average.

And, a 30-06 at 300 yards hits like a 30-30 at 50 yards...

All I'm trying to say be have realistic expectations and real good gear to support your hunt.

Most of all have a Great time and a successful hunt.

Yeah, and I'm loving it my friend...I've been thinking about turning something else into one too

If an '06 ain't an elk rifle extraordinaire, then no such rifle exists.

The 30-'06, 7x42 Swaro's and a pair of Kenetreks

30-06 will be mare than adequate. Lots of bulls have been droped with the 06

It doesn't exist then. Extraordinaire .. no. Probably-adequate-aire ... sure. There's nothin' extraordinary 'bout something that for which there are so many things that are better, even if it's the yardstick by which they're measured.

In my years of swapping rifles, I traded two overly heavy 30-06's. One was a Sako, the other a Shilen DGA sporter. Either would have been a good candidate for re-boring to 9.3x62. That would have lightened the barrels and the resulting guns wouldn't have been too heavy for that round.

So, if you guys have an '06 safe queen that fits that description, give it a thought.

DF

Or 270....

try some 180 grain Nosler Partitions or Accubonds out of your new CDL SF 30-06.. if you buy a new gun I'd go with a 300 WSM or 300 RUM..

Would have to re-barrel to do that.

Ingwe may stumble across your post and suffer an emotional set back.

Just saying.

DF

This. I'm struck by this at the end of every public land elk hunt I make. There is so much hard work and luck involved, as long as your rifle and load meet minimum requirements to kill an elk at the range you are likely to see them they are almost an afterthought. A great hunter in a great area with a .260/140 Core-Lokt will out perform a lesser hunter in a lesser area with a .340 Wby/225 TTSX landloads.

Expat

My sentiments exactly. So much of an elk hunt is so hard or in some way challenging. Painful feet, wet feet, tired legs, sore back or shoulders, burning sinuses from the dry air, dehydration, cold mornings, rainy afternoons followed by snow the next day, uncomfortable and thus poor sleep, navigating in dark unfamiliar territory, are all issues that I now concern myself with vice the cartridge selection. Although, the choice of a light rifle helps with some of that.

A great hunter/marksman is a lot more likely to bring home elk than one not so experienced. I do agree with you that cartridge choice would be an afterthought in most cases...I also grew up using the 06 and know of its virtues...I just choose to use different rifles chambered for different cartridges to break up the monotony

How do you get better than dead elk?

Heck yeah! Different guns, calibers, and cartridges are fun, but that is more about rifle-loonyism than elk hunting.

I didn't read all the posts and im sure it was said but your 30-06 should be more than enough gun with a TTSX or Partition. Unless you're like me and use any excuse you can to justify a new rifle Heck , next time i head to CO ill probably leave the 338 fed at home and bring the 25-06. Big magnums are simply not necessary to kill most game. Stick with what you can shoot well, thats far more important than a more powerful rifle you shoot half as good as your trusty '06

Use your 06 unless you are looking for aa reason to buy a new rifle. If so, I'd go with a 338 WM.

The few elk I have spoken with sead they would like it put if had to be dune. I guess there not real up on calibers.

I agree 100% !!!

Me, too. My .30-06's have yet to let me down.

Nevertheless, I'm not getting rid of my 7mm RM, .300WM or .338WM.

Took my first elk hunt last fall. A 49 yr old flatlander. We camped at just under 9,000 ft and hunted up to 12,000 ft or so said the Garmin. It sure felt like it! Take the lightest rifle you have in the class of the 270 or the old Otter6 and put the money into optics and GOOD boots. Break them in too. I went with a couple different models of Danners and they were fine. No blisters. Don't overlook GOOD socks.. They should be layered like other clothing. A dry pair at lunch time sure feels great too. Shoot a quality bullet. No magnum will make up for butt shooting a critter that size so practice field shooting out to at least 400yds. I'm not saying you will have to take a 400yd shot,but practicing at that distance will help point out your flaws. Making it easier to correct them. I borrowed my b-in-laws "Trigger Stick" one day and soon bought my own. A bit of a pain toting it around,but man that thing is really steady. We both have the bi-pod tall version. I think it's worth the time to take it along.

I'm as loony as they come.... . I don't care what rifle, cartridge, bullet I'm using as long as I know it's suitable and will humanely kill an elk. We all know the good ol 30-06 will work, but why bore ourselves with packing one of those outdated things around the woods

Any gun/caliber that's legal will kill an elk. Humanely is up to the hunter.

go with the 03.06, see how it likes 165 gr Barnes tsx, masybe similar Nosler Partition. I have been responsible to for three guys getting the .338, just because I have one-- they have gone back to the 270 and 30.06 because it was too big for them... good footwear great socks, good glass and a rifle you can shoot

I will throw my name in the hat for what it is worth. I have shot a lot of elk with 180 nosler par bullets. Have recovered about eight bullets in the elk they were all text book mushroom and retained most of there weight. A lot went right threw thew them i have NEVER lost an elk using them.
A few of years ago i got a screaming deal on a 338 Winchester in ruger red butt. I started shooting it it is heaver and the elk i have shot with it died just like the 06 elk. I have both and take the 338 and the 06 as a back up.
If you are going on a hunt of a life time always have a back up.

(There you go you get a new rifle and still have the 06 for backup best of both worlds. You need a back up gun in your camp you never know when someone might drop there gun or a mechanical issue will come along.)

30-06 and 200/220 grain bullets.

GETTING THE MOST OUT OF YOUR .30-06

by John Barsness



TODAY THE PRIMARY OBJECTIVE of most handloaders seems to be accuracy, with muzzle velocity closely behind, though we still run into guys who claim to get 100 or even 200 ft/sec more than most loading manuals suggest might be realistic. In my experience these experimenters are often into hot cars as well as hot handloads, but most of us recognize that if we want a .300 magnum we should buy one, rather than attempt to turn our .30-06 into a .300 WSM.

The majority of us want fine accuracy with as much velocity as is safely possible. Modern powders continue to improve performance, though sometimes not quite as much as we'd like to believe. While some new powders do provide higher muzzle velocities under "normal" conditions, they can lose considerable velocity at cooler temperatures. (And exactly why "normal" means about 70 degrees, the temperature of our climate-controlled living-rooms, I've never been able to quite figure out. Do we hunt deer in our living-rooms?)

Though I own rifles chambered for centerfire cartridges ranging in powder capacity from about 12 to 120 grains, and in calibers from .20 to .45, I am an unabashed admirer of the .30-06 Springfield. In fact 10% of my centerfires are chambered for the .30-06. This isn't because I don't like smaller and larger .30's; another 20% of my rifles are chambered for .30 caliber cartridges ranging from the .30-30 Winchester to the .300 Weatherby Magnum. (Obviously I haven't fallen for the modern suggestion that 7mm is the perfect all-around bullet diameter for big game hunting - though I own exactly as many 7mm rifles as .300 magnums.)

But the .30-06 always seemed just about right, even before my first game animal. This was because the gun writers of the early 1960's, including Jack O'Connor, told me so. I spent my paper route money not just on .22 ammo but a subscription to Outdoor Life and an annual copy of Gun Digest, and so knew an awful lot about big game rifles long before taking my first deer.

Since then I have actually used the .30-06, buying my first at age 20, a "sporterized" Model 1917 Enfield that I turned into a real sporter, partly by grinding the rear sight "ears" from the action and drilling and tapping it for scope bases. This rifle shot pretty well, but I soon acquired yet another .30-06, a used Remington 760 that the brother of a friend had to sell cheap.

Since then I've owned at least 20 more '06's, including several 1903 Springfields (one a Sedgely sporter), a couple of pre-'64 Model 70 Winchesters, several 98 Mausers, a T/C Encore, a Browning BAR and a Sauer drilling. Last fall I took the biggest bull elk of my life with a Benelli autoloader in .30-06, using 180-grain Federal Tipped Trophy Bonded ammunition, while filming a TV show, about as modern a rifle and load as can be found. In fact I've owned or hunted with a .30-06 in every type of rifle action except the lever, and might have to correct that.

For many years I'd taken more big game animals with the .30-06 than any other cartridge, though recently the .270 Winchester edged it out slightly. I still have taken a much wider variety of game with the .30-06 than any other round, ranging from American pronghorn and African springbok to elk and kudu, on three continents. It works.

Over the decades I've experimented constantly with various handloads, so know how to make a .30-06 shoot both accurately and with reasonable zip. The loads that follow have worked not just in one rifle but several. They may not work in your .30-06, and may have to be adjusted slightly due to differences in chambers and bores - but the odds are they will work pretty darn well.

Let me start by saying that if you have been loading your .30-06 with IMR4350 and any bullet weight from 150 to 220 grains for many years, then you might as well go ahead and keep using the same load. That powder still works for anything worth doing with a .30-06. What follows is for rifle loonies only.

150-grain bullets:

I am not crazy about using bullets under 150 grains in the .30-06. Yeah, some modern 130-grain bullets will penetrate elk reliably, but I was born and raised and live in the West, and have hunted too many other windy places to be impressed with high muzzle velocity that sacrifices wind-bucking ability. So the list starts at 150.

As noted, IMR4350 is a fine powder with 150-grain bullets, and a safe one too, since you just about can't pile too much into a .30-06 case to be dangerous. But in recent years Ramshot Big Game with 150's has proven itself a little better. Not only is Big Game less cold-sensitive than IMR4350 (not a bad thing when hunting in a typical Montana November) but accuracy and muzzle velocity tend to be just a bit better. It also meters a heck of lot easier than IMR4350, which really doesn't meter at all but ka-chunks its way through a powder measure.

Nosler's latest Reloading Guide 6 lists Big Game as the fastest powder for 150-155 grain bullets. I tend to trust Nosler's numbers a little more than those of some other manuals, because they actually report the muzzle velocities from their pressure barrels, rather than working up loads in a pressure barrel and then shooting them for velocity in a sporter barrel, or rounding them off to the nearest 100 ft/sec.

Nosler's muzzle velocity for their top charge of 58.0 grains is 3056 ft/sec, while Ramshot's own top load is 57.5 grains for a muzzle velocity of 2932 ft/sec. My own experience is that 3000 ft/sec is easily reachable in a 24" barrel, sometimes with less powder. A lot depends on the bullet. I first tried Big Game with 150's using Swift Sciroccos, a rather "sticky" bullet, and got 3059 ft/sec with 54.0 grains from the 24" barrel of my New Ultra Light Arms Model 24, with fine accuracy. With 56.0 grains ejector-hole marks appeared on the case heads.

This proved to be a deadly deer load, but also serves to remind us that today that various bullets create widely different pressures, so we can't blithely substitute one company's 150-grain data for use with another company's 150-grain bullet. Start with around 53 grains of Big Game, just to make sure, and watch the chronograph carefully. Often a magnum primer will help accuracy when using any Ramshot rifle powder.

165-grain bullets:

Here's where good old IMR4350 really shines. For decades my standard load with 165's was 58.5 grains. The extra half-grain may have been superfluous, but did seem to result in better accuracy in more than one rifle than "just" 58.0 grains. Muzzle velocity was around 2900 ft/sec, and this load killed a pile of big game, first with Sierra GameKings, and then with Nosler Solid Bases and Partitions, long before we had today's vast array of "premium" bullets to choose from. In fact, I would still be happy to hunt any game in Montana with a 165 Partition and 58.5 grains of IMR4350.

(By the way, you won't find this load in any manuals, because .30-06 data is kept to 60,000 psi instead of the slightly higher levels afforded more "modern" cartridges. But a few years ago I loaded up some 165 Partitions with 58.5 IMR4350 in Federal and had Ramshot's pressure lab run them through their piezo barrel. The average pressure for 10 rounds was 58,348 psi, with very low standard deviation, so the load was entirely safe even by SAAMI standards - and with the Federal 215 primer, which tends to raise pressures slightly over standard primers.)

These days, however, I am far more likely to load 59.0 grains of Hodgdon's H4350SC, and for the same reasons I load Big Game instead of IMR4350 with 150-grain bullets: H4350SC meters a lot easier and is far less cold-sensitive. In fact in tests at around 0�F it didn't lose any velocity at all from 70-degree levels, while IMR4350 often loses 100 ft/sec or more. The loss of velocity isn't as important as the changes in point of impact that often occur. H4350SC also tends to be a little slower than IMR4350, though this isn't always true from lot to lot, so again watch that chronograph.

180-grain bullets:

For decades I bounced back and forth between IMR4350, Hodgdon H4831 and Alliant Reloder 19 when loading 180's in the .30-06. All worked pretty well, but none stood out so much across several rifles that I could pick one load and stick to it. Then, a few years ago, I tried Ramshot's new Hunter powder with 180's. The first experiments took place in my old NULA with Barnes then-new Triple Shock X-Bullets. Eventually I worked up to 58.0 grains. Accuracy was very fine and muzzle velocity was right around 2800 ft/sec.

I have since tried this load with different 180's in several .30-06's, including my Sauer drilling. Accuracy has been universally very good, and in 24" barrels velocity around 2800 or even higher. Ramshot's own data goes up to 60 grains (with Hornady BTSP Interlocks) but I have never found any reason to go beyond 58.0 grains. The load has worked not only in the NULA and Sauer but in the .30-06 barrel for my T/C Encore and a fine pre-'64 Model 70 Winchester. In the Model 70 (with no changes other than adjusting the trigger and making sure all the screws were tight, including the forend screw) the load grouped around .5" with Sierra GameKings and .8" with Nosler Partitions at 100 yards.

In fact, when I went to New Zealand in early 2007 to test Berger VLD's on wild goats and big red stags, I immediately loaded up 58.0 grains of Hunter behind some 185 VLD's, and got 100-yard groups of .4" at 100 yards, with a muzzle velocity of 2862 ft/sec. Combined with the very high ballistic coefficient of the VLD's, this made shooting at long range very easy in the New Zealand mountains. So now I do have a 180-grain .30-06 load that works in several rifles.

200-grain bullets:

Today I don't think there's a real need for anything bigger than a 180-grain bullet in the .30-06, but when I started using one in the 1970's I often hunted elk and mule deer in the steep, thickly-timbered Montana mountains near the Idaho Panhandle. Shots could come at any angle, but a lot of range or velocity wasn't required. I tried some of the old "semi-spitzer" 200-grain Nosler Partitions (the ones with the relief groove around the middle) in my first Springfield sporter and found that 58.0 grains of the original military-surplus H4831 shot acceptably (especially for an ancient rifle with a 3x Weaver) at just over 2600 ft/sec.

This load worked very well, so even when I "modernized" with a Ruger 77, a Bushnell 4x and Nosler's extruded-jacket 200-grain spitzer Partition, I tried H4831 again, this time the newly-manufactured version, eventually working up to 59.0 grains for about 2650 ft/sec. The new powder was a little hotter, but the load worked just as well as the old one. Eventually this load was used in a bunch of .30-06's, anytime the game was relatively large and the ranges relatively modest - though with the spitzer bullet it shoots as flat as a factory 180-grain load.

For a few years I used the Ruger 77 for all my big game hunting, using either a "deer" load with the 165-grain Nosler Solid base or an "elk" load with the 200 Partition. They shot to the same place at 100 yards, and the only difference in appearance between the rounds was that the 165's were loaded in Remington brass and the 200's in Winchesters, just so I could tell them apart.

However, that didn't always work. Once while pronghorn hunting I ended up with the 200's. I didn't realize it, though, until after shooting an antelope at about 250 yards - and the 200 worked just fine. In fact this load is still so reliable that I occasionally use it again on some wild and tasty beast. And why not? One of its virtues is that it doesn't shoot up a lot of meat.

I have shot some 220- and even 240-grain bullets from the .30-06, the last Woodleighs, usually with H4831. They have grouped fine, but I am not real sure about what they're good for, since I have never had any problems with .30-06 bullets penetrating big game with lighter spitzers. Maybe if I were using a .30-06 when guiding brown bear clients, as Phil Shoemaker has done, I might pick one of the real heavyweights - though Phil mostly used 200 Partitions, as I recall.

The newest spitzers will work both near and far, and on the biggest game. I have shot enough 165-grain Barnes TSX's and 180-grain Nosler E-Tips into big game now to know that they work very well on game larger than deer, and that if they don't seem quite big enough I should probably be carrying something like a .375 or maybe even a .416. Heck, even at the modern muzzle velocity of 2800 ft/sec a 180 Sierra GameKing works just fine for most hunting, including elk. That's still one of the virtues of the .30-06. Though modern powders and bullets allow it to compete with far more modern rounds, it still works quite well with standard lead-core bullets, a real virtue if you're traveling and get separated from your cutting-edge handloads.

That's always a good read....

"Uncommon" common sense.

You have a 30-06 so stuff it with 180 Partitions stick a Leupold 2.5x8 on it and go get a bull.
Keep it simple.

I have killed elk with a 257 Roberts, a 338 and a bunch in between. My choice is a 7mag with 150 gr Swift Sirroco bullet. I agree with Coyote Hunter, I would rather pick the bullet than the cartridge. Lots of good advice on bullet choice above. I tend to prefer the heavier bullets unless they are premium like the Barnes X, Swift Sirroco or Nosler bonded. Whatever you use, dont shoot long range (more than 300 ish) if you dont have a rangefinder. I consider myself pretty good at judging range and depending on the elk, lighting, and type of country you are in, it is very hard to be better than a guess sometimes.
If you are not hunting with a guide I would recommend spending money on a good gps, maps, clothing and optics. And a good pack. Make sure the pack is big enough to carry all of your clothing needs so you can shed and add layers as you need them. Depending on the year I have hunted elk at 30 below and 70 above (rifle season). No matter what the weather you will need light clothing for hiking up hills and something warm to put on when you stop and glass. For a pack I used the new stone glacier pack this year but the Mystery ranch and others are good, just heavier.
I visited your part of the country for the first time this past year. I dont know how you are going to get in shape for elk hunting with all that flat land and hot humid weather. I suggest walking up and down any hills you can find and if not, maybe lots of stairs.
My friend and hunting partner is a guide and I have seen many out of state hunters with nice rifles. Some of them were wearing big puffy snow suits and couldn't walk a half mile in the mountains. Most of them never saw an elk unless it was thru a spotting scope.
I rate the physical conditioning and mental preperation for all weather hiking at 5000-9000 feet (maybe a bit more or less) as the most important factor in getting an elk.
Most people are not prepared for the work of hiking and getting the meat out can be very hard. I ran a 4.5 hour marathon this year (I know it's slow but I'm old) and I have spent days packing out elk that were a LOT harder mentally and physically.
I'm not trying to discourage or say you have to be some super athlete to get an elk, just that the better shape you are in, the more ground you can cover and the more days in a row you can go, you have better chances of an elk on the ground. Then you have to get that big thing to the truck and freezer.

Funny how we all think different about guns, and what they shoot. Maybe it has something to do with when we're born.

I've always thought of the 30-06 as more than enough for elk, and probably more than I need.

Some years ago I had a rifle built just for elk hunting. Weatherby Vangaurd in .35 Whelen...thought that was gonna be the thing at the time. Only two years later I started hunting elk almost exclusively with a 50 cal muzzleloader. Never can tell sometimes. I did manage to take a cow elk with the 35 one time though. She was moving at that ground eating trot they do and when that bullet took her through the lungs, she was down in about four more steps. So the .35 did well, but the .50 smacks em' hard too.

So pseshooter300 take that '06 and get her redone into a 50 cal muzzy...ain't nuttin' better.

There you go. Sling some real lead.

06 will be just fine. 165 or 180 grain pill will be more than sufficient. I would try to keep your shots inside 400 yards, not because the 06 won't do the job but rather an ethical matter. Check a reloading manual and see what the 'drop' is for an 06 or any other caliber for that matter. They lose a lot of energy also. My family is comprised of outfitters, guides and two Wy. Game wardens and our calibers for elk go from .243 all the way up to 7mm mag...all work fine..it is the shooter that matters the most. Good luck

Lots of good Advise here. So I won't repeat whats already been said, other than to make a point about the range to practice at.
I would say Out to 300, is more than sufficient. I live east of Elk country like yourself. Do you really want to go hunt this majestic animal and snipe it from 500 yards away?? Really?
Personally I would want to be as close as the Terrain will allow. Just my .02 cent.

I like the way you think!

Getting close is great - when you can do it. Unfortunately, it isn't always possible.

Last year I spotted my cow at 150 yards but waited for her to stop her fast walk before shooting. When she stopped the range was 399 yards. It was the last day of the season with about an hour of daylight left and I had just started hunting my way back to the truck.

My son-in-law took his first and only elk at a lasered 363 yards. That was also at day's end and we had been watching them for a couple hours, unable to get closer.

In 2000 I killed a 6x5 bull at 350 yards right at the end of shooting light. We had been watching the herd since 11:30 that morning, through sun, wind, rain, sleet, snow and more sun. The elk were settled down on a hill top and we were unable to get closer in the open sage without being seen. At dusk they started moving and to get to 350 yards I had to scoot the last 100 on my back, pushing myself headfirst through the sage, barrel cactus and inch or two of fresh snow. When I finally took the shot I figured I had only seconds left before the opportunity was lost for good. Although that was my longest shot in 31 years until last fall, it is also one that I worked hard to make it happen and the one I was and still am most proud of. Everyone else came home from that hunt empty-handed.

This small 6x6 from 2003 was taken at a lasered 213 yards with a .45-70. The herd was on the move and if I hadn't shot when I did I probably wouldn't have had one at all.


In 2007 I was on a barren, grass-covered hill expecting a shot at 400-600 yards if I got one at all. We watched some elk come off a mountain over a mile away and as fate would have it they came right up the hill I was on. The shot I took was about 40 yards after turning down opportunities at no more than 25 feet. With elk you have to be prepared - you might get a close shot or you might have to reach cross-canyon. The elk came off the mountain in the distance and ended up on my hill, just over the orange date stamp.


This picture from 2009 is from an area where we took three elk a few years previously. The tree covered hill top in the center of the picture is 500 yards away. Think you could get closer with a dozen or a hundred eyes watching?


In 2011 I took my cow at 262 yards and, while hunting bulls the next day, had cows within 25 feet. Should I have waited?

The point is you never know what the future holds but most hunters know there are lots of things that can prevent them from getting closer. Members of my hunting party have had long, hard stalks blown more than once by other hunters, but factors like end of shooting hours, end of season, weather, terrain, animal movement, unit boundaries and other factors that can limit success just as easily.

For someone coming in from out of state on what might be a rare or even once in a lifetime hunt, I strongly recommend being as well prepared as possible. Practicing to 300 yards is "more than sufficient" for most hunts but certainly not all, especially in open country or heavily pressured public land. For a shooter that is well prepared, 500 yards really isn't very far. "Snipe" at an elk at that range? If the shooter is prepared and has no other good options, why not take the shot? It certainly beats tag soup.

An elk in mountain country can turn "300 yards" into "500 yards" while you're thinking about whether or not you want to kill him.If you think you can chase him down and keep up in some country, forget it.

Like CH says,getting closer is sometimes wishful thinking...always good to get as close as possible,but even on a cross canyon bedded bull,it is sometimes the wiser choice to take the longer shot at a stationary animal...terrain and vegetation never look the same once you cross that canyon and the brush and trees you could see through from the other side may restrict visibility to short distances after you cross over and a big bull in heavy cover can be very difficult, if not impossible to approach...BTDT and I got stories from friends and I who eschewed 500-600 yard shots to staulk closer...big bulls gave the slip in heavy cover at short distance;that mix of oak and buck brush can hide a herd under your nose at close range.

Point is being able to make the longer shot is a worthy objective and I would be familiar with rifle and load to at least 500 as a routine matter.Today some folks are proficient further.

Exactly. Good placement on a stationary animal at 500 yards is often a lot easier than when taking a 100 yard shot at one that is on the move.

Having shot at (and often missed) coyotes on the run at ranges from near to far, I know firsthand how difficult it can be to get the lead correct, even with bullets running 3600-4000fps. With movers you may have only a couple seconds to get your rifle up and squeeze the shot off but the longer the shot the higher the chances you will have more time. The longest time we�ve watched animals was about 6 hours at 600 yards, a range well beyond where any of us were prepared to shoot at the time but one at which I now shoot clay pigeons. There have been other times, too, when we have watched the elk for hours before making taking our shots.

Just thinking back over the last few years�

2012 � We spotted an elk herd from about 1PM and tried several approaches, running out of cover each time, before we were finally able to get into position for a my son-in-law and hunting buddy to take their shots t end of shooting light.

2011 � I watched elk herds for hours on private land, on at least 2 different days, waiting for them to cross over to public land. Finally took mine at 262 yards on a walk, knowing that if I waited longer the opportunity would be lost.

2010 � Elk were in the area and I decided to let them come out rather than going in after them and chasing them off. They started appearing at around 3PM at a range of 500-600 yards on a cross-canyon shot. When I changed positions to close the only element limiting the time I had to take my shot was the rapidly failing light.

2007 � We watched an elk herd for about an hour as they approached from over a mile away. When I took mine it was after the elk had disappeared under our hill while still about 500-600 yards out and popped back up 25 feet in front of me. They took off on a run and I waited for a quartering away angle at about 40 yards before taking my shot. The elk were headed for the fence that marked the boundary of the hunting area, just a few yards behind me, and I had only seconds to take the shot.

More often than not, I�ve passed on runners even when they were under 100 yards. Way too much can go wrong. People tend to underestimate the lead required, unseen brush or trees can get in the way and other animals (in front or behind the intended target) can interfere. Even on an �easy� running shot the animal may bound over some obstacle or suddenly make a turn, both of which can screw up shot placement. Stationary targets on the other hand, tend to provide far more time to plan and execute the shot with fewer variables to deal with.

Go with the 30-06. It'll serve you well. practice is more important than anything else. Regarding scopes, a good 3x9X is more than sufficient. Of the last three elk I've shot, only the really long range shot require cranking the scope up to 9X on my .300 Win. Mag. For thre month prior to the hunt, I practiced on my range's sihouette range on target out to 500 meters. By the hime of the hunt, I was able to knour 4 out of the five ram targets down from a sitting position and three out of five from kneeling. Practice came in good stead as my shot was at 530 yards laser measured across a very wide open park in the White Mountains of Arizona. That was about eight years ago and I didn't do another elk hunt until 2010, mainly because Arizona is somewhat stingy with elk tags. In December 2010 I did a landowner cow elk hunt in New Mexico and tagged my cow elk on the run at 150 yards with a .35 Whelen. No hunt again in 2011 and just did another cow elk hunt in New Mexico this last January. Elk was standing at an estimate 325 to 350 yards and my .35 Whelen pushing a 25 gr. Barnes TSX took the cow down with one shot I'll admit it was probably the luckiest shot I ever made. I wa aiming for a chest shot and the bullet broke her neck at the base of the skull. Turned out that sometime between the final sight in and the shot, something happened to that scope. When I got home and checked it at the range, it was shooting 6 to 8" groups, and this from a .50-.75" rifle. It does pay to have a back up. Mine was at the motel but if I hadn't tagged, my back up would have been with me the next day. For the reccord, both New Mexico elk were shot with the scope set at 3X. You don't need a Hubble telescope on your rifle. Just a lot of extra weight to pack around and if your hunt is at 9,000+ feet MSL, you sure as hell won't want that weight. I haven't smoked since 1975 and breathing is still a bear at that altitude.
My partner on the hunt shot his at 317 yards laser measure with a 7MM Rem. Mag. pushing 160 gr. Accubonds at right around 3000 FPS. They couldn't measure my shot because it had started to snow some and was messing up the readings.
The guys here have given you some damn good advice.
BTW, my back up rifle was a 24" barreled 30-06 shooting the 190 gr. Hornady SP interlocks. I wouldn't have worried on my shot if that was the rifle I'd taken.
My wish is for you to have a successful hunt. I'll be headed back to new mexico next January to get some more darn good eating meat.
Paul B.

I love my 30 06 with Barnes 180 grain Blue Boys.( 180 Noslers aint bad either ) The 30 06 is proper Elk Medicine.

06 with 168 barnes ttsx going 2850 shot through both shoulders on a bull at 135 yards this last fall. dead right there.

I've hunted with the same A-bolt in 30-06 with a Luepold 3x9 for over 20 years.

It has knocked down every animal I have fired it at, including three elk here in Colorado over the past four years.

From my perspective, the priorities elk hunters should try to focus on are shot placement, cardio conditioning (while breathing through a straw in your mouth),shot placement, good boots, shot placement, hydration, shot placement, scouting potential honey holes with google earth, shot placement, remembering to snag the coordinates of where you left your truck, shot placement, and remembering your elk jerky.

Did I mention shot placement is also important?

Well said.