I've got to go to lgs tomorrow to pick up a transfer, & I thought about buying some tula. All I've got is brass 223 & 5.56. I'd like to get some of the tula so I can go to range. Heard good & bad about steel case, what say you?

I bought a PSA rifle kit (16" carbine gas) just to shoot steel through.

It's been fine, even if the accuracy is less than stellar

I’ve shot Wolf mostly and some Tula. The only FTE I’ve ever had was with Wolf and the casing expanded/cracked, had to punch it out with a cleaning rod then continue.

Thanks for the info. I believe I'll give it a try.

I shot a lot of the wolf hollow points in the bushmaster AR I had when I was younger and didn't have a lot of cash for ammo but liked to shoot and varmint hunt a lot. Didn't have any issues that I can recall, sure they aren't super accurate but other than that I bet I've shot a few thousand of them over the years.

That's good news. I think if I lube it good they'll function fine. I know he's got them in stock. If they're priced fair I'll be buying. I've got to get my moneys worth out of my yearly range fee.

30 cases so far, most all full auto at shoots. Two failures to fire, no other failures of any kind. Which is better than any brass cased I've tried over the decades.

Dirty, somewhat underpowered, not very accurate. The soft steel jackets (bimetal) are doubtless tougher on bores - that's what Luckygunner sez, anyway. One of my 11.5s has about 20k through it, rifling is rude, gas port a canyon. Took it out with some good M855 last year and it still did 6" for 5 shots at 100 yds (irons). Steel bullets are bad......yeah, OK.

The only other part to see accelerated wear will be your extractor hook. To prolong extractor life use just enough extractor spring tension. More is not better.

My math sez barrels and extractors are more economical to replace vs shooting only brass-case. If you happen to attend a MG shoot you'll see that everyone else maths this same way. And if steel-cased was such a horrendous risk to peoples' ARs these guys wouldn't be shooting it in $20-40k transferrables. Doubtless some of this is laziness.......easy to use an extension magnet to police empties after the shoot.

Stuck cases and steel usually relates to not cleaning the chamber before switching back to brass. Steel obturates poorly, so chambers carbon up. Only stuck case in decades at this was a tracer reload. Suspect the case had originally fired in a minimi.

One last thing: lacquer does not melt in chambers. Used to demonstrate ad nauseum to unbelievers by running 300 rds in dumps till handguards were too hot to hold...then deliberately stop mid-dump and see if we could get the lacquer to melt. Never. Not once.

Thank you Sam. Nice to get first hand info rather than YouTube wisdom.

As stated, the extractor is the weak link.

I change mine every 1k rounds on the PSA beater/loaner rifle.

And carbine gas > mid length for 16" barrel IMO as the ammo isn't usually very "hot."

I use Tula .308 165gr soft points in my .308 for hog hunting. It's stellar! Very accurate and hits like the hammer of Thor. I would not hesitate to use it on anything I hunt.

Have been using Barnaul Silver Bear soft points through my 7.62x39 on hogs. It does a good job, and is 1 1/2 MOA, albeit dirtier than the Tula. I have to clean the chamber and bore more often is all.

Good use for night shoots where you have zero chance of finding your brass!

My buddy found one the other night!

We lined up on a big sounder at his place, and counted to 3...

When done, he said my first shot case hit him right on the cheek...

I find the Russian steel cased ammo a bit less accurate, and somewhat dirty. Other than that, it's good to go.

It's your rifle....I'm not running it in anything other than an AK.

It’s hard on extractors, dirty, underpowered and less accurate.

What’s not to like?