What's your favorite and why?

Terry

I've been using LaRues Machine Gunners lube mainly because they sent it to me for free. I don't know who makes it for them but it doesn't burn off and that's why I still use it and even paid for a couple of big bottles.

For a qualifier, I do have some CLP and it doesn't last as long as the machine gunners stuff. I used Rem oil for a while but quickly found it burns off pretty quick. That's about all I've used.

I use RemOil, mainly because it's easy to get and it works well enough.

Break Free CLP. I like it as a lubricant but not as a cleaner. However, as a benefit while it is protecting all the parts during function of the AR it is at least helping to prevent and break up deposits. If I do store a gun for a while I can pull it out and see the that the CLP is still there. They all burn off at some point but I have gone 6 or 7 hundred rounds in a day before relubing without a problem.

FP-10... Has great lubricity and stays where you put it.

FP10 is good, I haven't seen any locally and I still use CLP. Old habits die hard.....

AstroGlide seems to work well.

I think a pluck you is in order.... grins...

I just could not resist!

I really do not have a favorite gun oil. I have ended up with large bottles of CLP on my bench that I am still using.

In the past I have used motor oil and it worked just as well as anything.

Well, I had never heard of it (apparently I have had a sheltered life!) so I had to Google it:

Funny website...



John

Slip 2000 EWL and because it stays on working even when its gone and does not smell! That break free stuff has got to be bad for you...it smells like its bad for you anyway.

It was a good funny to toss out there though....

I have used motor oil too... but only synthetic(cause thats all we run.....) and its been just fine too....

Only thing I can add, when it says wet, it means oil and not grease....

CLP is my favorite and what i use most of the time. I have Rem Oil but it doesn't seem to last very long. The Smith & Wesson Dry Lube works great on handguns.

I use Castrol...it's race proven.

TC

you guys really need to try the slip2000

I am currently using Slip 2000 EWL too. I've got the Break Free CLP, lighter weight motor oil, even tried transmission fluid...it all worked well, but some smells worse than others. The EWL gets my wife hot and bothered, so I use it for now. She likes the smell. I also am using the S&W Dry lube for my SA pistols.

I've still got a stash of the old "original" FP-10 and like it a lot. George Fennell, the developer of FP-10 lost his share of the company to hid business partners who then cheapened the formula. New FP-10 isn't the same as the original.

George then started another company and produces an even better CLP (my opinion), called Weapon Shield. It's slicker and thicker than FP-10 and stays put better. My AR-15s and pistols run malfunction free with it.

Weapon Shield

George Fennell is a heck of a nice guy. I spoke to him on the phone at length once and he sent me several free samples of the original formula. You are correct about when Shooters Choice first began production of FP-10. They changed the formulation and it did lack some of the good stuff Fennell originally built into it. However, it is my understanding that later versions returned to the original formulation and today�s Shooters Choice FP-10 is the same as when Fennell first came to production with it. I had tested the samples that Mr. Fennell sent me and then later placed a bulk order that arrived as Shooters Choice product. Rumors began to surface that the new stuff wasn�t the same as the original and I called the company. They verified they did in fact change the formulation however; they had immediately changed back to the original recipe because of complaints. They offered to exchange my order of FP-10 for some of the re-formulated newest true to Fennell design FP-10 which I accepted and they did so at no cost to me. I checked with Mr. Fennell and he confirmed that Shooters Choice was back to using his original recipe. I will check out Weapon Shield though, thanks for the link.

Thanks for the info MOGC. I too had a long chat with George, but it was before he left the company, so I had no idea about the formula double switch. I emailed him around two years ago IIRC for a free sample of Weapon Shield. I liked it a lot, so I put in a large order from Midway.

I also bought some one ounce flip top bottles off Ebay to give samples to my friends and co-workers. It drives me nuts seeing guns under-lubed. Probably an OCD issue that needs addressing.

I use Militec and TW25 grease. The Militec stays on, bonds to the metal and keeps the surface lubed even when dry. I shoot 99% of the time with a suppressor and lesser oils become a carbon suspension that is abrasive. The Militec doesn't seem to do this. CLP turns into a black grease whereas the Militec stays fluid.

+1 on the TW-25. I only use grease on my ARs.

Interesting on the grease users, we used the red high temp stuff we always used on the M14s when competing with them.

The guns would become sluggish, swap to oil instead of grease and there was a NOTICEABLE speed up in operation and so on...

With rapid fire in the strings, we would never risk using grease, BUT that being said, I'm sure some grease is better than others...

The TW25 I have was given to me by a friend when he returned from Iraq. It was given to him by some Marines in artillery. They used it on their big guns and his unit used it on their M4's. He said they cleaned and lubed the guns, fired them til hot and wiped off the excess and had no failures that way.

The Militec is used the same way- lube, shoot to get the gun hot and wipe it off.

TW-25 + AR15 = a superb combination.

I've always used Breakfree 'cause it was free. A friend likes FP10 on his M4, another guy who works at the same place likes Ballistol. I snagged a couple of tubes of TW-25 and it looks like good stuff. We used to use STP on high-wear areas in the M60 (lugs and yoke) and ATF fluid elsewhere.

A 3-gun friend who's gun is set up with a JP low-mass system says stay away from grease, at least in that set up.

I've always used Eezox on all my semi-autos but will give the TW-25 a try next. How much and where do you apply??

Please report back!

After a lot of testing, I now use Eezox -- but if there is something better I will switch again!

John

One thing I would be curious of is the grease may work great in the 120 degree heat but how does it work in 10 degree weather?

I ask this cause I saw 2 Remington 1100's puke in 15 degree weather on a pheasant hunt. That's always stuck in my mind.

Good point. That was the exact reason I switched to Eezox.....it was the only product I've ever used that would provide top-notch rust protection and keep the semi-autos running in the ice and snow!!

Never heard of Eesox, but if it works in the cold it should be worth investigating. Thanks.

Good question. We don't get much 15degree weather here in Texas, but the Milcoom site claims that its operating range is from -90 to +450 F.

About the coldest it's ever been when I used it was about 30F.

I grease the bolt lugs, the bolt body and the outside of the bolt carrier with a thin film. When I clean, I just wipe the stuff off and add new.

I get a lube from a local guy that works very well. I guess my test is to give the gun a few drops and see if it is still wet after 500 rounds running it hard.

Any lube that will last that long will keep the gun running for at least 1000 rnds with out any more lube. That�s good enough for me.

I've been using Eezox only as a rust preventative for the last few years and it's been superb at keeping my EDC K-T .380 safe during pocket carry. No small feat. I've read on the can that it's supposed to be a lubricant also, but I just never could buy into the whole "dry lube" concept-------other than moly,graphite, PTFE, etc. Eezox dries to such fine, almost invisible film that I can't see it protecting against wear as well as other lubes. I sleep best running my guns wet, but I've got issues.

I've been running Mobil 1 0W-20 with good results.

CLP.......

Lithium grease.

Wildworksinupto0degreesandifitscolderthanthatiaintoutAlaska ��2002-2011

I must try this Eesox stuff, anyone run it on progressive loaders? Wet lube of any sort isn't a good idea there IME.

No, but after the Eezox dries, you would think that you had never done anything. The smell is kind of nice but vanishes in about a day.

I used to have a pickup truck with a topper and drove it in Ontario Canada a lot. Evidently the turbulence behind the truck would swirl dust & dirt, and in winter, salt spay from the road all over the back of the truck.

Break Free CLP would have to be reapplied about every three weeks to keep the lock working.

Eezox would last about 5 or 6 months!

Now, this application is for "low load" of course. I do not think I would use Eezox for the hinge pin in an over and under or side by side shotgun (or bolt lugs) -- that needs a lube meant to perform under pressure and I do not know if Eezox would work well. Maybe somebody else can comment on that usage.

However, most trigger mechanisms (e.g. Rem 700, current Win M70's) are more like the lock on my truck. Eezox does work very well on my bolt action triggers, and it is a great rust preventative to boot -- one of the best.

I could not find Eezox in Sweden, but the folks HERE, AT EEZOX took my order. Very good service!

I can also say that Eezox is great for bicycle chains too! No rust, and the "dry" chain does not pick up dust or grit.

John

currently use CLP, but I have used synthetic motor oil with no ill effects.

I am going to try Eezox

check out this article on corrosion;

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

i've been using eezox since 1991, but i use it primarily as a rust preventative, as i don't believe that the "dry lube" concept is the best deal on fast gunning semi autos...and depending upon the type of firearm/use, i use other lubricants. might not hurt to try it on your press--though i've not done so myself.

of all the lubricants i've used, as a rust preventative--in my judgement--it has no peer, and it gives the firearm a really nice, almost "velvety luster", as it penetrates into the metal and prevents oxygen from getting into that very metal to begin its diabolical deed...i can assure you that finely blued guns, such as the belgian guns so masterfully blued, look so much better after eezox goes into the metal (or any blued gun, for that matter).

i talked to paul (at warren), and i told him that it smells different than it used to, and he told me the EPA was the reason why they changed from the older solvent (trichloroethane, i believe), to the present chemical solvent (TCE, or trichloroethylene), which is pretty nasty. you've got to take precautions with ventilation, and gloves--look for gloves that prevent it from leeching into and through the gloves, causing a transdermal absorbtion--the stuff can really make you sick if you don't take precautions, but after the solvent evaporates, it smells pretty fair. paul also told me that homeland security is buying up quite a lot of it--i would assume for rust prevention, though its possible they might be using it primarily as a lubricant.

if treating your rifle, you should remove it from the stock and treat all surfaces. this is a must if you have a wood stock with a varathane finish--you must remove it from the stock. don't re-apply it after that, unless you once again remove it from the stock--never get eezox on the varathane "skin-type" of stock finishes, as it will damage the finish (as well as some of the painted finish stocks, and some rubber grips, etc).

the old saying goes, "rust never sleeps", but eezox puts it to bed...

i have been using motor oil, i figure it is developed to take heat and holds up in an engine so why not in an AR?

That Eesox stuff sounds like some toxic crap. I'm all for a slick running rifle but if a "lube" requires protective gloves to apply I can do without it. A slick bolt isn't worth a brain tumor, pickled liver or nonfunctional wiener!

Apparently my can is the older formula and it has a very pleasant smell. I bought a couple backup cans last year that I just gave the sniff test and they smell the same. I'm a little light headed now and bumped into the wall a couple times but.....


Seriously, as a protectant I think the stuff is good enough to warrant gloving up to wipe down your guns. Do several in one session and be done with it. For a lube I still MUCH prefer a wet lube or good grease like TW25B.

Just a couple reasons I stick with gun lube are:

motor oil is engineered to perform at a lower temp than a firearm can reach (250-300 deg. vs. easily over 300)

The AR is operating at a much higher PSI than and engine experiences. Can motor oil remain in place under higher pressures?

I'm not saying it's scientific, but it's not like I'm using a pint a month on a gun. A few ounces lasts for a long time as lubricant- that's why I hate the CLP spray bottles- too much waste.

well i've never smelled it buring and i found using strait 30 weight not 10w30 it does stay in place as good as anything i have found, on my buffer spring however i lubed the hell out of it with lithium grease and seem to keep the buffer very quiet

I think the test from the above link shows why it's not a good idea.....

As to the toxicity, I've never had an issue with Eezox damaging wood/plastic/rubber. FWIW, I've never used gloved and no issues with tumors, livers or limp wieners either!

It does clean as well as protect so I wouldn't apply it to anything painted though.....

Militec and Schaeffer Roller chain lube. Why, why not?
http://www.schaefferoil.com/roller-chain-lube.html

eezox won't damage plastics. it wont damage the wood itself, but can cause damage to "skin finishes" on wood. rubber grips are ok if you wipe it off of them as soon as possible.

curiously, their website says it won't damage original factory wood finishes--yet when i asked paul (at warren) about this, he said that the TCE is what does the damage, and it will damage some stock finishes, rubber grips, and painted finishes.

i always take all precautions, so that nothing is damaged.

if doing just one gun--either a rifle or a handgun--it doesn't bother me too badly, but if doing several, i feel pretty sick when finished--but i believe some of us are more sensitive to certain chemicals than others...in my own case, i used contact cement daily in my job for over 10 years, and my tolerance for harsh chemicals is very low, due to this sustained exposure.

Here's one idea. This guy uses wheel bearing grease. Not for me though, I use CLP and it works just fine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXIsKEHo-4g

I don't use anything but TX-7. It's an oil additive. About $30 a qt but will last forever.

Just put a little on, wipe off. Makes an AR run like a sewing machine.

Yuck, I'd rather have it run like an AR.

Eezox is the best thing I have found for our winter temps. Once it dries there is nothing to gunk up in the cold.

Mobil 1 10w-30

I use Slide Glide and/or Gun Butter for the high friction points, and rem lube or clp for the rest. Those (Rem lube / CLP) do burn off, so I'll check out the FT 10 (sp?).

I may put a grease on the buffer spring as well. I like that idea..