I want to put a weapon light on my AR15. I have a quad rail with a front handle grip on it. I want to mount the light so it will be in the 3 o'clock position as I hold the carbine. I want to be able to turn the light on with a monetary switch on the back of the light by using the thumb of my left hand, which will be on the handle grip. Any ideas as to which lights I should look at? I don't have an unlimited budget so money is an issue. I need a light that'll work without breaking the bank. It doesn't have to be the latest and greatest, it just has to work. I'll take it off most of the time when I take my carbine to the range.

Thanks, NYH1.

Surefire G2LED or equivalent.

I just went to Amazon and typed in TLR-1S, 105.00 I am sure its not the best but its a good one. I have it on my Colt.

Thanks guys!

NYH1.

Surefire 6PX LED. The one I have is 200 lumens, but I have heard the newer ones are rated at 350 lumens.

My light rides in an Elzetta mount which puts the light at 6 o'clock which is where I prefer it.

I have a Streamlight TLR-1 mounted that way on my shot gun, and have been quite happy. Easy on and off with no function issues what so ever.

I run surefire and cannot complain at all. They always work and with LED bulbs the battery life is pretty good.

It's what I used to run. Had no complaints. But switched to the G2X and love it even more. Can't beat it for the price.

I bought about five Surefire G-2 lights in the LED version and they work well. I think Surefire has gone on to a next generation version recently. It is possible to have too bright a light for indoor work as you will get some reflection from light colored walls directed back towards you the operator that can be disconcerting. I have not noticed this to be the case normally outdoors where more is somewhat better. Usually incandescent bulbs are more fragile and not as long lasting as LED and when switched off they have a tell-tale glow for a second that can give away your direction of movement to the opposition.

big difference in price between the Streamlight and surefire models. Is the "made in the USA" worth the extra?

I thought both were made in the USA but as long as its not china, I wouldn't have a problem with either company.

I do have both companies lights and batteries. My newest light is Streamlights new Super TAC X. It's a handheld light that is the brightest I've ever seen.

I am curious why their is such a big price difference. Insight Technologies is in the middle price wise.

TLR-1, but I wouldn't mount it 3 o' clock...

looking on Optics Planet I see that there are several Surefire G2 light's so which G2 would you recommend the ZL, ZX, D, X Pro, X Tactical????? and which mount???

Evidently, sure fire quit making the cheap g2 nytrolon led light. For the price I'd get a Sreamlight TLR1. The g2 led I have were only $60 and my suggestion was intended for a bargain priced light.

The mount I use is a Viking Tactics mount that runs about $25.

It's called the G2X now. 200 lumens instead of the 170 (I think) of the plain G2. Other than that, it's the same. Well, except price. The X is around $90. But I have done a few google searches in the last couple months and you can still find new in box G2s. Just have to search. And they're cheaper now. Think I saw one for $45.

Thanks guys.

NYH1.

You missed the Surefire cyber Monday sale ?

Do you want it for indoors or outdoor applications? I am not a fan of to much light indoors. Using an LED I find anything over 120-150 lumens to give to much back wash that will impair the operator more than it will serve any addititional means of blinding a suspect. Going outdoors I dont mind anything with as many lumens as you want to go.

I bought a 500 lumen light when it first came out until I used it at night in a house. There was so much light washing off the wall that my partners said it was not allowed indoors anymore.

Im also a fan of the streamlight TLR mounted at the 6 o clock position.

varmintsinc, it will be used for indoor use. I think I'll end up going with a Streamlight TLR Light. I'm going to mount it anywhere from the 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock position, as I hold the weapon (3 o'clock would be mid right side, 9 o'clock would be mid left side). I'll have to figure that out when I get the light.

I've never used a weapon mounted light before so I'll have to see what feels best for me. I'm going to get one for one of my Glocks too.

Thanks for the help, NYH1.

First off, if you're using a chicken choker grip, you should consider using thumb over bore. It's a vastly superior technique.

Regardless, TLR-1 is hard to beat for value, X300 if you want the best. Offset adapter of your choice.

I use a Surefire 600C Scout Light on my rifle. I tried an X300, which I use on my pistol, but the Scout has more throw, and the switch design is better, for me, on a rifle.

JustOneGunner, not really sure what "chicken choker grip" is. As for using my thumb over the bore, I've never tried that. I went from having the regular carbine hand guard to a drop-in quad rail with a Troy aluminum front grip mounted about halfway down the rail. I like this setup. My next setup will be a little lighter. I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with a TLR-1 light. I might get one for my Glock G22 too. Going to figure it out after the holidays.

NYH1.

Gripping with your thumb under the barrel/around your foregrip, I mean; I inferred that from how you described using your thumb to actuate a 3 o' clock light.

Short version: Having the weight of the forend on top of your hand is worse than having it in your hand for a fighting rifle. Skeletal support is great for standing comps, but for multiple targets and recoil mitigation, thumb over bore (or alternatively, running your thumb parallel but still above the boreline) is faster and better for transitioning and keeping impulse to a minimum. Rhodesians used it to great effect with FALs.

Before you dismiss it as a mallninja newfangled gimmick, give it a shot.

While discussing the chicken choker you might also try the reverse chicken choker...

Palm on top of the forend with the thumb up (Basicly make the letter C with your left hand). For CQB and entries it gave me maximum control over the gun and is extremely solid if using a full auto application. Instead of the muzzle trying to rise up against just the force of your thumb its trying to rise up through your entire hand.

By mounting a TLR at the 6 oclock you can activate the rocker switch with your thumb regardless of how you position your hand and your not locking yourself into a single technique that is limited due to the position of your light.

http://haleystrategic.com/store/inforce_wml_hsp.php



� 200 Lumen Output
� 90 Minute Run Time
� Momentary On Only Activation Switch
� Ultra strong jet black polymer body
� Weight with Batteries 3oz

Can also get 120 lumen versions with strobe, constant on, IR, etc.

3oz is super lightweight.

12 o' clock is ideal if your handguard/front sight allow. Least intrusive shadow, ambidextrous.

Justonegunner is right about your grip. Look into a training class.

As for light position, I happen to prefer 11 o'clock in a Vikings Tactical mount. G2X. No switch tape.

I am interested in the Thorntail mount in the same position, since I'm running a carbine-length gas system/barrel.

Yep I agree and although I use 11:00 with the same mount, 12:00 is better but I get by. 6:00 3:00 or 9:00 gets in the way, 11:00 is just out of the way but not ambidextrous.

See JOG, we agree on a few things.

Been looking for one as well and the prices for an weapon light are absurd.

Sooooo. Today I picked up an Vikings Tactical polymer weapon mount and then went to Wal Mart and picked me up an Maglite LED XL50 light with 130 lumen. Fits perfectly after I removed the insert on the mount.

One hit for high. Two for dim. Three for strobe. Runs on 3 AAA batteries and I much prefer that over CR123's.

Will it hold up and work? Don't know. But this light is under $30, uses common batteries and isn't uber spendy. If it holds up I'll be happy because it isn't over bright and doesn't give me backwash reflection too badly.

This is my econo answer im going to try.

You could've got a Fenix E21 for not much more. Electronics aren't something to skimp on.

I'll have to try gripping my carbines as you guys explained it. If I do, there really isn't any need to use the front hand grip on them.

NYH1.

The front grip makes it so you have the same exact hand position every time. Consistency equals accuracy.

Though, now with Magpul having a cheap handstop kit, I'd opt for that before a VFG. Either works, though.

Yes, on a Troy/Samson rail in front of a BUIS

I have a THIS Troy Modular Combat Grip on my current AR15. I planned on putting it on my new Colt AR15 that should be here any day. I like it and I'm use to it now. It's not something I have to have, rather it's something I like to have. I don't have it on my AR for the "tacticool factor". I got a really good deal on it so I tried it. After using it I like it.

If I stick with the Troy VFG, I think I'm going to mount my light on the left side of my carbine around the 9 o'clock position instead of mounting it on the right side around the 3 o'clock position. I think I'll be able to operate the light easier with it on the left side. It's easier to move my thumb around the left side while gripping the VFG with my other fingers. I don't seem to have anywhere near the movement when I try to move my thumb around the right side.

Thanks, NYH1.