I.got a bargain.if these are good 3-for $33.95 each how good are they .They are solid bullet aluminum with solid trigger guard .I don't want to.make a 223 probably.a 6.5 Grendal or a 450 bushmaster .I.think.it's a better investment than a bar of silver .I.have not.gotten into ar15 always fooled with Ruger mini 14 which I.just snagged another one of them too .I want to get a ar10 also in 260 Remington .I wAnted a h&k 91 in 260 Remington just can't get that built reasonable ! These noreen lowers look good in pictures hopefully.in person too built in Montana !

I bought a set in Cerekote for a build - data point of one set.

Cerekote seems pretty thin for what it is supposed to be, but it was even, and fully covered.

I'd like to check the alloy for actual hardness, I know what it's supposed to be from the specs.

Hammer pivot pin hole was pucker tight, I had to clean it a bit to get the pins in. Seemed straight, just tight.

Roll pin hole for the bolt stop was tight, standard roll pin went in, but it was a pain to get started - to the point I thought I had the wrong pin.

I have assembled two for clients who provided the lowers. as the other poster alluded to, the finish was thin but even and the holes were tight. when it was together it worked fine so I believe it does what a lower does and that is to hold everything where it is supposed to be.

FWIW - Update: finished the lower with a matching upper. The ejection port door sits "proud" of the port at the base where the pivot pin is.

It's far enough out that the short ear of the coil spring that rests on the side of the upper can slip past and will need to be reset. I'd say the hole is drilled about a 1/16 of an inch further out from the side of the upper than it should be.

Fit between the two was tight, no play, and I'll be watching to see how much the finish holds up to the pivoting of the two halves.