I am not an AR guy , but I ended up with you. its new maybe 50 rounds thru it , last night I shot a 20 round magazine fairely rapidly , on the last round the bolt stayed closed, I can remove the empty magazine . but the bolt will not open nor will the safe move, to the on position . I can not pull it open.
Any quick fixes or do I need to have someone look at it , as I have no idea if there is a live round cambered or not .
Well, back in my USMC days, we would pull back on the charging handle, while slamming the butt of the rifle into the deck to give the BCG some inertia.
Of course we didn't have optics or retractable stocks in those days.
I am assuming the last round fired? Hope so. break the gun open, cock the hammer, point in a safe direction and pull the trigger. If nothing happens take the upper off the lower, try an put a thin bladed flat screwdriver into the space between BCG and frame and see if you can force it back some. As always I remain perplexed, in several dozen of these guns built or bought I just dont have the same problems as others face. Of course I don't believe parts is parts but whatever.
I am assuming the last round fired? Hope so. break the gun open, cock the hammer, point in a safe direction and pull the trigger. If nothing happens take the upper off the lower, try an put a thin bladed flat screwdriver into the space between BCG and frame and see if you can force it back some. As always I remain perplexed, in several dozen of these guns built or bought I just dont have the same problems as others face. Of course I don't believe parts is parts but whatever.
Back to square one, I am not an AR guy ! I know where the bullets go, and where the safety is and how to work the bang switch . As far as "breaking the gun open" yes that's my question. How do I ? Does one go about this with a roofing hammer, spud bar or maybe a come along ? I was kind of hoping to shoot it again after solving this issue.
I am assuming the last round fired? Hope so. break the gun open, cock the hammer, point in a safe direction and pull the trigger. If nothing happens take the upper off the lower, try an put a thin bladed flat screwdriver into the space between BCG and frame and see if you can force it back some. As always I remain perplexed, in several dozen of these guns built or bought I just dont have the same problems as others face. Of course I don't believe parts is parts but whatever.
Back to square one, I am not an AR guy ! I know where the bullets go, and where the safety is and how to work the bang switch . As far as "breaking the gun open" yes that's my question. How do I ? Does one go about this with a roofing hammer, spud bar or maybe a come along ? I was kind of hoping to shoot it again after solving this issue.
Jimy.
You might not know AR's (yet), but I suspect you are handy with tools, so you can handle this.
If you can make it go boom, you know where the charging handle is, right?
Keep the barrel in a safe direction. Place the rifle in a solid fixture, or with the butt against a solid object.
Place a small piece of 1x2, or something against the charging handle (be sure to disengage the latch) and with a hammer of reasonable size, see if you can tap the bolt open.
I suspect you have a stuck case in the chamber.
Once you get it open, time to field strip it and examine your bolt carrier group. Make sure it moves properly and doesn't have any debris in it, such as pieces of a blown primer.
I haven't watch this particular video, but it should give you and idea of what to do:
Thank you very much ! Thats just what I needed to watch, trail and error is not always the best suited way to solve ones problems, an experts advise will save me time and a lot of broken stuff.
And it did indeed have a live round stuck in the chamber, tomorrow I will take it to my shop and disassemble , clean and deburr everything inside of it.
and then give it another go, thanks again for the help, maybe I will duck tape a rubber mallet on the stock if this becomes a regular problem.
Well, back in my USMC days, we would pull back on the charging handle, while slamming the butt of the rifle into the deck to give the BCG some inertia.
Of course we didn't have optics or retractable stocks in those days.
I've used that method and it works. Just make sure it's pointed in a safe direction and collapse the stock first otherwise it may collapse on your fingers.
What MM is describing is called "mortaring" it open. Works great with an A1 or A2 style stock, but I've disabled cheap a cheap retractable doing that.
Another option is to place a block a wood against the charging handle and hammer it open.
What make is the gun?
If it's a parts gun, who's barrel and bolt carrier group are we working with?
It says Anderson Manufacturing , Made in Kentucky AM-15 Multi cal .
Jimmy, just so you know what you are working with, Anderson's is know for having some quality issues. I had a bad barrel from them (12 inch groups at 100), under powered hammer springs, and roll pins that would just split. Polishing up the chamber etc might not be a bad idea.
Also, it's possible this wasn't a quality issue. This can also happen with debris in either the chamber, or the bolt carrier group. Get a primer anvil in the pivot pin hole and it sure can lock up a bolt...
Were these factory rounds or reloads? If reloads, they may need a small base sizing die.
auk1124 asked some important questions. Since you have a new barrel, everything fits extremely tight. You had some carbon around the neck of the round and the round got stuck going in. This happens with new barrels, especially if you are shooting steel cased ammo or ammo that uses dirty powder. All you need to do is clean the barrel and barrel extention. I suggest a can of spray carburetor cleaner and a .223 bore snake. You can use a cleaning rod and brushes as well. I'm a bit lazy so I choose the spray carb cleaner and bore snake.
