Given that a fella has a good stout barrel vise and action wrench, what are the odds that a #1 can become a switch barrel gun by using an orphan barrel, given identical head diameters/extractors. Did Ruger maintain strict tight tolerances? Headspace issues being my main concern.

I can't speak to the tolerances maintained....but I would suspect you are going to run into interferences with the quarter rib (or scope ring blocks on a 1V type set up) and the under-barrel hanger assembly. You would probably have to remove the quarter rib or the hanger assembly each time you decide to swap barrels. If that's the case (just guessing without having a barreled receiver in hand), I could see the idea of a "switch barrel" being more hassle than value unless you set up the scope mounting rib / blocks in a different configuration so that extra disassembly wasn't requred.

My off-the-cuff response...probably not worth much.

I agree with War Eagle in that the 1/4 rib would probably be the primary hassle. I had a #1 rebarreled to 6mm CM before I realized the possibility of a short barrel life. Unlike a standard bolt action , the #1 has the additional cost of having the barrel drilled and tapped for scope mounting.

Can it be done, I believe so. Will it be as easy as a bolt action push feed gun, I don't think so. There will be a bit more assembly/ disassembly required. I see two issues. As been alluded to is that the scope mounts to the barrel direct and that has to turn within the parameters of the forend hanger which also holds the mainspring and extractor/ejector and is part of the receiver. The extractor/ejector fits into a recess in the barrel at the rear of the chamber. To remove the barrel, the action will have to be disassembled to the point that the extractor/ejector is removed so the barrel can be turned out. The scope base/quarter rib would also have to be removed as there is very little clearance between the barrel and the hanger.
So, I believe an additional barrel could be fitted and headspaced to the action. Both barrels could be fitted to be torqued so they could be removed with the proper tools. It would be a process to switch the barrels but it surelycould be done.

Yeah, obviously the rib will have to be removed, I had thought of that but appreciate the sentiment. I've had #1's apart enough times now to be comfy/efficient in yanking the breech block and associated parts out. Being the same head/rim diameter the extractor/ejector isn't an issue. It'll be an occasional barrel swap, like every couple years, so not like it'll be a once a month operation. Like I said, my main concern is how closely Ruger maintained tolerances and timed the barrel threads.

Both barrels, current and proposed, are 1A's so the assumption is that the forearm will work for both. Perhaps it'll require some jockeying too, we'll see.


Hell, I don't even know for sure why I want to do this, except "why not"?

that is going to be very expensive and a lot of work to have done on a Ruger #1 , i have a switch barrel target rifle in a bolt action that is not to difficult to change barrels mine is a 6BR X 6.5 Creedmoor both are Brux barrels on a Bat action left port /right bolt . but i hunt many days with Ruger #1`s .

Might be able to devise some kind of a scope mount dovetail machined into the barrel so no base to remove.

Bruce

I have a ‘switch barrel’ Ruger 77 bolt rifle. I have fit several barrels to it, mainly because I wanted to and enjoy barrel fitting on a lathe. I had access to about any chamber and neck reamer I wanted, and just wanted to learn precision barrel fitting.
That said, I would suggest you ask yourself ‘WHY’ when thinking about getting a switch barrel rifle.
- you will need to recheck your scope sight in every time you switch barrels - and trips to the ranges seem to be getting to be longer drives as many close their doors.
- you’ll occasionally need an action wrench and barrel vise, even if you only hand tighten barrels.
- If like me, you just have ‘the itch’ then you’ll do whatever it takes to scratch it, but I now like to decide what I want, fit a barrel, and then use it. If I want a cartridge in a rifle I fit it, torque it in better than hand tight, and then spend time and money shooting it… as is.
Just thinking out loud.

If you do the switch barrel thing that eliminates the need for another rifle/caliber. That's not good Looney thinking. LOL

Thinking out loud..............interrupted thread, keep quarter ribs on, maybe something w hanger to lock bbl in position.
Still have to take action apart to swap, but Rugers are easy to disassemble.

Id say just buy another rig, rather than swap stuff around.
But with #1 pricing these days, a switcheroo sounds more doable LOL

Can be done with a barrel vice and two barrels that fit correctly, without an extractor change, but the extractor is simply that, a one piece change. The #1 barrels all fit the same, center chambered and are all threaded the same. The headspace is not necessarly the same nor will they clock up correctly, top dead center the same on every barrel.
The intrnals come out in one piece with a slave pin. You must remove the rib and pins to turn the barrel off. The hanger is part of the action.
You remove the rib by removing the screws, then a rubber mallet put to the barrel, out of the vice, causing the rib and barrel to separate. Be sure to grind the end of the rib off so it does not touch the action when replaced. Only tighten the rib screws back on finger tight good and snug, with Locktight.

The #3 takes #1 barrels as well.

This is my #13, a #3 in 22 Hornet with a messed up barrel converted to a 7mm Rem Mag with #1 barrel and #1 wood, with the lever cut to accommodate the #1 butt stock. It shoots sub 1/2" groups.

That Rapier, is a very fine looking rifle.
You've done an extremely nice job.
Semper Fidelis
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