Why is there no info in the campfire about the Dakota Model 10. Anyone have any information on them to share it would be greatly appreciated.

$$$$$$$$$$$
that's about the only thing I can think of.

Not really...you can pick them up for 3-4K...That NO different than building a custom rifle!

For 3-4K, I can have a brace of #1's. That's simple.

It seems to me that I heard that they don't have ejectors, just extractors. Is that true? To me, I want a rifle that kicks the spent casing out from under a scope like my ruger No. 1's.
Doc

I've also heard that they don't shoot very well, for that kind of money I want a tack driver.
Ruger # 1 Guy

...I haven't any experience with the Dakota 10. But it sure is as beautiful in line and form as any rifle I've ever seen. More feline than the bulkier look of the Ruger single shot, aesthetically the model 10 is as beautiful in form as the finest of shot guns. Seems to me a gun that looks that good must be a joy to carry.

The .270 I had about 10 years ago was plenty accurate - every bit as much as my #1's.

Mine was an extractor-only. I don't know if an ejector is available optionally, or if mine was altered - as I bought it used for $2500.
In any event, the extractor is more desireable than an ejector for a non-dangerous game rifle, IMHO. More "sporting", if you will.
If more firepower/speed is needed/wanted, some other type rifle, other than a single-shot, is indicated.

The one I bought had upgraded wood, and a skeleton gripcap - which IIRC were options.
I DO know, that I had absolutely NP selling it within 10mins, for $1K more than I paid, by simply walking into a gun show with it a year later.

I was just uncomfortable, hunting the woods (which I did) with that nice/expensive of a rifle.

.

Sometimes one of these shows up at First Stop in Rapid City. They are beauties! But that's the limit of my experience with them is just looking. By the way, they may have extractors because these are supposedly silent while reloading, but ejectors make a noise which could allow a dangerous beast to pinpoint a hunter. Also I know I'll disable the ejector on my Ruger #1 since the cartridge cases cost a lot for my .450/.400!

I had one in a 25/06, it was a bit selective about what it preferred to shoot but it would shoot fairly well. Of the fellas that I know that have them I've not heard of one yet that wouldn't shoot.

Pretty darn sure mine was an ejector.

I'd love to have one done for me in 7 Mashburn Super.

Dober

I have several of them, all in varmint calibers. All of them were easy to develop a varmint worthy handload for ( 1/4" to 3/4" load ). Never heard of one that wouldn't shoot, but who knows. Most of mine were bought gently used, mostly from First Stop Guns in Rapid City. I like and have several custom and factory Ruger # 1's, but the Dakota 10 is way above a # 1.

All of mine are extractor only, but I don't know if that means they are all extractor only, but I bet they are. Getting ready to order another in .17 Ackley Bee ( bet you won't see another one in that caliber very often ) through First Stop.

But, they can be "pricey"...........

I have a Dakota 10 in .270 that I shot for the first time today. I got a three shots touching group at 200yds (two in the same hole) with factory Federal 140gr Accubonds. I think it's what I'm taking sheep hunting this year.
Don

I like mine:



It has shot 1/2 Minute to 300yds and handles like a dream. Having an ejector would increase the weight and size of the forearm so it's a tradeoff.......................DJ

That is very pretty. I like the beaded cheek piece on mine, too.

Is it ttrue that they cannot be cleaned from the breech end? Heard that once but never had an opportunity to check if it is true.

1B

Yes, 1B that is true. The tang mounted safety doesn't allow it. In fact, yesterday at the range, I wanted to post a neon sign "yes, I know I'm cleaning it from the wrong end, please don't tell me again", as everyone there stopped by to inform me of my error. These Sunday afternoon accuracy afficinados then would shake their head mumbling to themselves about the crown as they receded back to their position on the bench, only to return later to comment about the destablizing effect of the barrel band, followed by "it cost HOW MUCH??????!!!!". Gotta love the range chats, I always feel like I brought a stripper to church.

I actually have a bore-snake for the little .270, but forgot it. This might be just the right compromise to cleaning the Dakota 10, without risking a crown ding.

DJ mentioned the other oddity of the Dakota 10 (as compared to a Ruger 1), that they don't eject.

Don

DJ, I think yours has nicer wood than mine. I shoot left and do not have a cheek piece. The metal is case-colored, and I've got a 30mm Z6 mounted on it (no open sights). It does have a cartridge magazine in the stock....pretty cool; and the recoil pad is the red "old English", type.
Don
PS you may recall that a few years back, I had an engraved .270 #10 that I sold....funny, now that I think about it, I sold it and put the money down on this years sheep hunt.

Don,

Here's an idea for a no cleaning rod way to clean your rifle. First, use Wipe Out bore cleaner. To clear it out from breech to muzzle, you can make a simple little rig. Get about 3' of the heavy monofilament from your weed whacker. Form a nailhead on one end, by heating and deforming it. Cut the other end on a sharp angle. Now take a proper sized jag for your rifle, and cut off the threaded shank. Now, bore a hole lengthwise down the center, just large enough to pass the mono through, and thread on your jag. Now you just thread a clean patch on the mono, and pull it through the bore, like a Bore Snake. Difference is, you can now put a clean patch on every time, instead of pulling the same dirty Bore Snake through. Also makes a great lightweight field cleaner. As the mono, is stiff enough to push out mud/snow etc.....

Jeff

Jeff,
That's a great idea! Thanks,
Don

Is it true that dry firing A Dakota 10 can break a firing pin which requires a trip back to the factory to replace it? I remember being told that by Dakota at the Shot Show years ago. He said no field kit was available.

docdb,

No problem. I need to also state that it's not my original idea. I got it from a group of Black Powder Cartridge Silhouette shooters at the range one day. It works great. I'm making one for every rifle I hunt with.

Jeff

It is also pretty simple for a good gunsmith to put a little "dish" in the top of the safety, whereupon a Dakota 10 can be cleaned from the breech end. A friend of mine had this done with a .257 Roberts. The safety still works (and looks) fine.

I've owned a Model 10 in 7x57 for the past five years, and I love the rifle. Every handload I've tried has stayed under 1-1/2" with 3-shot groups. More importantly, it puts the first shot on target from a cold bore. I've never experienced the problem cleaning from the breach that others mention; I just make sure the safety is in the "ON" (rear) position, and my Dewey coated cleaning rod doesn't shave at all.

I called and asked the shop guys about this, and they said the action had been revised to stop this problem. None the less, me no dryfire, and it's the first thing I tell someone that picks it up (if I let them).

Here's a small Montana coyote I called in and took with a Dakota .220 Swift

That's cool! The only coyote I've killed was in Georgia at about 300yds with a .300 RUM. It was quite a show when it was hit!
Don

BTW, that coyote is famous among the nurses and doctors and pharmacy reps that go through my office. I have it full body mounted and quite frankly it's infamous for it's stink! I keep a bottle of Fabreze for the warm days when it really puts off an odor.
Don

I have a friend that owns a Dakota 10 in 7mm Dakota. He can't hit a battleship with it. But, it's not the fault of the firearm.

Yes this is true. Mine had a broken pin when I bought it, very likely from people dry firing it in the store. I bought relacement pins but it had been dry fired enough that it had peened out the firing pin hole and the entire block had to be replaced - which Dakota did at no charge. They made it good.

You can imaging my consternation when I went to the range for the first time with the most expensive rifle I'd ever bought and instead of Boom all I heard was click! It took me a couple years to get over being mad at it.

Supposedly later models have a slightly modified pin arrangement that prevents breakage but I still would never dry fire a Model 10. It's easy to decock them and snap caps are cheap insurance.

I also would NEVER clean my Model 10 from the Muzzle! I just use a small bore guide that fits in front of the safety and a 22 caliber rod that has enough flex to not touch the safety when running the rod through. Maybe someone elses safety is taller than mine but it's not really that hard to clean it from the rear like you should...............................DJ

DJ,
Thanks for the advice. I'm heading to the range this weekend, and I'm going to take every rod I have, as well as the "snake"; and do it the "right" way. I'll also get snap caps.
I'm taking this model 10 to the Yukon in August, so I'll be working out at 200 to 300yds.
Have you (or any others) worked out the mechanics of getting off a second shot (not that I've ever needed one.....ahem) fairly quickly? I'd like to practice that some too. The only time I've ever tried, I was prone over a backpack shooting an antelope at several hundred yards. At the first shot (that fortunately was fatal) I was in a dust cloud, and had to roll over on my back to get the muzzle pointed up enough to let gravity eject the brass, then roll back to prone to insert the next round. It felt pretty clumsy, and I'd have lost sight of the game. Maybe I'll just grow a long finger nail to extract?
Don