Do you guys full length resize (including setting your full length die to lightly size) after every firing or will Neck sizing alone work without hindering easy chambering in the #1?

I have ALWAYS set up my dies for partial F/L sizing. Lately, tho', I have been exploring the benefits of neck sizing. Don't know that I've ever N/S'd for any of my #1's, but I don't see any reason why one cannot. Likely after 3-5 loadings, one will have to F/L size and bump back the shoulder. I don't see it as any different that loading for a bolt action... HTH

I don't see it as any different that loading for a bolt action... HTH[/quote]

The #1 doesn't have the camming power of a bolt gun. I always partial size for the #1. I want just the slightest resistance as the block closes.

Leon,

You are correct, the #1 does NOT have the camming power of a bolt gun! However the breechblock is machined at a slight angle, and as long as the block will go past the bolt head, you are good to go.

Like you, I set up my dies to partial F/L size, with just a slight bit of resistance being preferred.

GH

I never have full sized for any of my # 1's, and I shoot them a lot in matches. All I use is the Redding bushing die and neck size. Being that the # 1 is a production gun I do index my brass because of course it does not have a custom cut chamber. Also because I shoot them in matches I need all the accuracy I can get and I've never had any problems with accuracy or chambering.
Ruger # 1 Guy

I neck size only with a 7mm Rem Mag and a 22-250.

I had a full-length die-set for my RSI, but thought I'd "work" the brass less and get more reloads if I neck-sized only, so I bought an RCBS neck-sizing die for my #1 RSI in 7x57mm. I found that I had to make SURE the neck-sizing die sized the neck all the way down to the shoulder.

Initially, I didn't have the neck-sizing die quite set that way and had to give the rear of a reloaded cartridge a little "push" to fully chamber the round which, in turn, enabled the breech-block to close. Since the neck-sizing die didn't completely resize the whole neck, there was a slight "hump" left at the base of the neck because I didn't have the neck-sizing die adjusted to go all the way down the neck to the shoulder.

Once I re-set the neck-sizing die to resize the neck ALL THE WAY DOWN to the shoulder, the reloaded rounds chambered easily and the breech block closed without further problems.


Strength & Honor...

Ron T.

I neck size for my three #1's (RSI, 1-S, 1B) and have never had a problem getting them in/out of the chamber, although some need a little push from the breach block.

I have always "partially resized", that is, instead of running the sizer die down all the way to the shell head, I use a feeler gauge to back off a measured amount. Usually it winds up being .003-.008". This step sizes the case down enough to assure easy chambering, without pushing the shoulder back and increasing headspace.

Like I've said. I use the Redding bushing die and neck size only. The Ruger # 1 does not have a custom cut chamber, so that's why I index my cases, I've never had a chambering problem and I seem to be getting max accuracy.
Ruger # 1 Guy

My experience is very similar to SpenceG's. I neck size with Lee collet dies for my 30/06, 270, and 22-250.

Lee collet dies if case is fired in that chamber.

Like you've "said" what? Did anyone discount your sizing practice? Did anyone take exception to it? Was there some point you were trying to make, aside from being noticed? What?

........

Come on, BT, give us a break! You have a few posts that are informative and helpful, BUT seems the majority, like the one referred to, you simply want to criticize or attack other Posters on what they say or believe. I am of the opinion that you have a lot of knowledge and information about the Ruger No.1 rifles; share that with us, please!

Since when is it wrong to ask a question? What was Ruger_1_Guy "saying?" Was he trying to make a point? What point was he trying to make?

As for me, I partially full length size mine for my .22-250, .257 Roberts, .270 WCF, and 7x57mms -- just like with my bolt guns.

Ah, DickTop returns and in his usual sterling form.

Dicktop, [bleep].........all the same!

+1

Gotta love the "ignore" feature. Enuff use it, the problem goes away since there's nobody left to hear his cries for attention.

Hey AH,
The point I was trying to make was if you are looking for a high degree of accuracy from a # 1 you should nick size only, and use the Redding bushing die as you can control the neck tension by changing the bushing, and being that the # 1 has a standard factory chamber you should index your cases, they will chamber easier and you will get better accuracy.

This info comes from my many, many, years of range and competition shooting experience, not from some book that you probably are reading settin on your crapper.

Guys,
I'm out of here, there's no way I'm going to get into a pissing contest with some AH internet bully that seems to have way to much time on his hands, and thinks he knows everything, or is way to stupid to understand the point I was trying to make, it's evident that he's looking to get into a word fight and this is no longer a learning thing so I'm done.

I wonder how he would act eyeball to eyeball, now that would be interesting. I'm surprised that the Moderator of this forum puts up with guys like him.
Ruger # 1 Guy

And why weren't you able to simply articulate that "point?" Are you the guy who always has to talk louder than anyone else in the room?

And we are all in AWE of your mighty, MIGHTY accomplishments. If anyone doubted you were an expert in this field, all they needed to do was ask you.

And I often wonder the same of you.

War Eagle:

For what it's worth, I full-length resize and just accept the extra trimming and reduced case life.

As a matter of preference, I like to close the breech with minimal resistance.

- Tom

It depends. If I'm just shooting from the bench I'll just neck size the brass. If I am hunting with the rifle(s), I usually do a full length sizing.
While makinthat first shot is the most important factor in the hunt, sometimes one must make a fast reload to keep the animal from escaping and thus possibly being lost. My method for a rapid reload in my Ruger #1 rifles it to tilt the rifle to the right as I eject the fired round and then drop the muzzle toward the groun so that gravity will enable the round to slide into the chamber without outside help from me. I do all that while keeping my eye on the game. If a neck sized cartridge will slide in without outside help, I will use it but I prefer using full length sized brass on the hunt.
Paul B.

I've reloaded for a 300WM #1 for a few years now and I honestly have not changed a thing compared to how I load for any of my other rifles. I partially resize enough to bump the shoulder back a tiny bit. I don't go for quite as tight of a fit as I do on my 700's but very close to that. The #1 I have seems to very tolerant of most of what I feed it. With my magnums, I never full length resize...helps keep case life reasonable.

This one ( portsider now owns it) is FL'd with 7X57 Lee dies, sometimes neck sized with collet dies, it doesn't seem to matter, accuracy is very goo for a 20" barreld , mannlicer stock.


THIS one however, is an open Fclass rifle in 6BR, and the brass is loaded with Wilson hand dies only.
This is a tight necked, superb shooter right out to 1,000.

Two completely different applications , and Ii can tell you that you would not want to hunt with the 7X57 if the ammo was set up light the 6BR!!
Cat