How good are the triggers on new a ruger #1?
For a hunting gun expecting 1" groups at 100 yards.

Do guys tune them?
Or change them?
Keep them as is?

Using your defining criteria, it is impossible to build a falling block single shot rifle using the criteria of a bolt action. If you want a target trigger, target accuracy, and the extremely tight lock-up, and fast lock time, etc, then you should be looking at a Remington M-40X.

That said, If you can accept the design of the Ruger #1, within it's limitations it's a great rifle. However to wish upon it something it isn't, is an exercise in futility....

Good Luck!

Getting MOA out of a #1 can be done.

But the trigger is only part and the least of the range of fixes you will need to consider IF your NIB 31 won't shoot MOA and do so reliably over time.

You can take the trigger out of the problem loop by having a smith turn the factory issue trigger into a crisp release 3# trigger. (Almost all of my 30 #1s have had this work.) Or, you can buy high end, ater-market, custom triggers that do the same job. Either of those options will remove the trigger as a contibuting factor to bigger groups.

Then, the fun begins -- wrestling with a myriad of bedding issues; finding the right load/reload; screw tension; bench rest and field shooting techniques; custom speed springs; rebarreling...

Triggers are the easy part.

1B

Tikka3006...

You've gotten great advice from Grasshopper and 1B. I'm one of those who put a high-quality, after-market trigger (a Kepplinger single-set trigger) in their Ruger #1 even though my gunsmith said he could make the Ruger trigger work well... and adjust both the creep and left-off pressure.

Ruger #1's are NOT "target rifles", but they shoot reasonably well in most instances... if the shooter does HIS "job"!


Strength & Honor...

Ron T.

X2!
I love the Kipplingers, and when I can find them, Canjars - although they quit making the Canjar, or so I am told.
I've always maintained the best way to tune a No.1 trigger is to take it out, throw it in the parts box and install a good single set!:)

I have had more than a few No.1's that would shoot less than MOA, and a couple that were REALLY deadly, but these were not anywhere near factory guns.
They were rebarrelled, re-triggered, and hanger modified rifles.
Two would shoot less than MOA at 1,000 yards though.
All my No.1's had triggers that were more than adequate for hunting however....
Cat

Cat,

I know you're from Fort Mac (Canada). Where did you manage to find a trigger for your #1?
I've called everywhere I can think of and havent had any luck.

I'm also looking to get a Hicks Accurizer.

I know you can get them both from Brownells but unfortunately they wont ship either.

Mike

Phone Paul Reibin at Rangesports Unlimited in Kamploops.
he has done most of my work on ALL my single shots, and has a super turnaround as well as top notch, World Class accuracy.
He has insatalled both Canjars and Kipplingers for me and my buddy up here.
He can hook ya up!
(250) 372 7030.
Cat

Thanks Cat.

I was talking with Dale Campbell and he mentioned Paul as well.

tikka3006,
My Ruger #1 in 220 Swift would shoot 3/4" groups when it was out of the box with factory ammo or handloads. I decided to install the aftermarket set trigger sold by Brownells.
Now after 2,300 rounds with everything just right I can still hold under an inch. (3 shot groups @ 100 yds.)
With a good bolt action .223 I can hold 1/2" easily.
I think a 375 H&H Magnum would be my next Ruger #1, I like the barrel band swivel I guess. It wouldn't matter if the groups were over 1" or not to me.
whelennut

I just recently purchased two Moyer triggers from E.A. Brown. One was for my dad and one for me. He opened up one and I have to say that is the worse quality control I've ever seen from nearly any product.
Chips and holes in the cast. VERY rough all the way around. I don't even care how it functions, I am not putting that POS on my rifle.
After "pulling" my 6.5# trigger at a range session I decided to make this purchase. I think I'll have to deal until I can get a smith to do the work. Don't think I can justify a $250 trigger for a hunting rifle.
I surely with that Timney, Jewell, Jard and others would get on board. I would believe there is enough market out there to invest in it. Unless of course their proprietary rights to the application?

Exactly the same experience as mine. "Ruger_1_Guy" will get bent out of shape when he reads this, since he has some sort of financial interest in Moyers Gun Repair. He spent a LOT of time raising hell with me when I posted the same experience on another board. A LOT of time. I offered several independent opinions on the quality of the Moyers triggers -- as in WELL-KNOWN and ESTABLISHED gunsmiths -- but that seemed to infuriate him even more. I don't know how anyone in good faith and with a straight face could recommend a Moyers product.

Hell, look at this photograph from Moyers' Web site:



What a piece of trash.

Rifle #222 has an article by John Barsness about the No. 1 along with a small aside on tuning the trigger. If you PM an email address to me, I can send you some scans of this.

A GOOD gunsmith can work wonders with the factory No. 1 trigger as well, for WELL UNDER $100. If you're willing to ship your rifle to a gunsmith, Mark Penrod can re-work your factory trigger AND ship it back to you for a total cost of $75.

I read your input on the Moyer Bricktop and was skeptical. Because the only one I've seen was nicely crafted. Well enough to put on a cherished rifle. Somehow, somewhere the quality has taken a sharp turn into the dumpster.
As for shipping to a gunsmith. I recently shipped a rifle for $45 FFL fee, $36 shipping and $12 insurance, plus TAX!!! Don't think I'll be doing that again anytime soon. I do believe that I can ship w/o FFL to a gunsmith, but the local FedEx/UPS annex has a HUGE problem with shipping "gun stuff". I have to completely re-educate her everytime I'm sending off a scope or some other non-firearm goods.
I'll do my best to find a local smith or eventually break down and get the Kepplinger.

You are under absolutely NO OBLIGATION to inform the Federal Express or UPS jackasses that you're shipping a firearm provided the recipient is a valid licensee. You can also use the USPS to ship a long gun with a LOT less hassle and quicker service (like 2 to 3 business days ANYWHERE in the U.S.) than UPS or Federal Express.

You can also ship your items via Federal Express and UPS by opening an account online. (It costs nothing to open the account.) Print your own labels and drop off or give to a driver, thereby bypassing some self-important idiot at a shipping counter.

https://www.fedex.com/fcl/web/jsp/c...tionhome&programIndicator=ss90705920
https://www.ups.com/myups/login?ret..._L1&reasonCode=-1&appid=OPENACCT

If you want a scan of that Rifle article with data on tuning the trigger yourself, PM an email address to me.

whelennut -

My last #1 .375 was good for 0.75" groups after I had a tension screw installed between the forend hanger and the barrel. Before that, nice narrow groups but about 1.5" - 2" tall. Max loads of RL 15 and 260 grain ballistic tips ... well, I guess that'd be accubonds now.

Seems like ... with the small sample size I've owned ... the fatter the barrel and thinner the forend, the better a #1 will shoot. I'm inclined to think the #1B with a fairly wide forend and relatively thin barrel is more difficult to get accuracy from than either the #1V or #1H.

Tom

I had an older Moyers that was finished nicely. Recently I picked up two more and found them very rough. I took a chance and started with a Foredom hand grinder and literally ground the grooves out of the trigger face, then contured it so it is more like that on one of the higher grade shotguns, a somewhat convex surface for the finger. I then blued using one of the Brownells blueing products, I have two on hand and cannot remember which. The part that was hidden inside the receiver was ok.


Bottom line is I now have a couple of good looking smooth triggers that feel good to the finger. This is the way that they should be made. Their castings are far too rough for the product.

Thats good to know. I was thinking about ordering a Moyers trigger since the price was right and it said it was ajustable.

If I order a stainless Moyers one, it maybe a bit rough but with some cleanup it'll still be a fraction of the cost of a Kipplinger.

If the price is right, I dont mind spending some time cleaning it up.

I live in a city of just over 1 million people and there arent any smiths in town I would trust to work on my gun.

Cat has suggested someone reputable but I'd still have to ship it.

I feel your pain. I've just resorted to shipping mine or learning how to perform certain jobs and accumulate the required tools and equipment. It's not an ideal situation, but it sure saves a LOT of headaches.

The Moyers will set you back $40-$50 US. Personally, I wouldn't waste the time on it. Shop around and get a Ruger 3-screw trigger or re-work the existing unit. You should be able to pick up a Ruger 3-screw for about the cost of a Moyers.

Here's some righteous No. 1 trigger porn; it's one of Mark Penrod's proprietary triggers. Not cheap, but nice.

Tom,
No argument from me on the fat barrels. I hunt from an elevated stand, and weight is not an issue for me. I like to shoot 300 meter prone and have noticed that the winners normally have the biggest fattest barrels they can get away with. Lightest triggers as well. If you look at the Swiss "standard rifles"
the barrels are totally free floated with adjustable aluminum stocks.
You don't see any two piece wooden stocks!
I wonder how a 28" half round 45-70 would shoot?
Anyhow my current #1V never required any fussing with the bedding until recently. The wood must have warped over the
past 25 years that I have owned it?
Does anyone know if I sent my .220 Swift in for a new barrel would Ruger want to keep my Kepplinger set trigger?
whelennut

It's been my experience that Ruger may remove your aftermarket trigger and return it to you when you receive the rifle from them. However, they're a little more flexible than what everyone would have you believe. I would call them and ask: 1-(603) 865-2442

Whelennut...

Bricktop makes a good point concerning what Ruger might do with your Kipplinger trigger.

In the past, I've read other posts here and at other forums posted by fellas who sent their rifles into Ruger for service and found that Ruger removes any "non-Ruger" parts from the rifles they service and replaces them with offical Ruger parts.

As Bricktop recommends, I'd call Ruger and ask them about their policy.


Strength & Honor...

Ron T.

All I can say is money aside, once you feel a Kepplinger set trigger....it's hard to go back

You don't have to make a comment like that in THIS economy

That Mark Penrod trigger looks nice. What's the cost, I could not find anything via any internet search.

I did sculpt my Moyers to look very similar, I left the tip a bit more square and may consider going back and rounding a bit.

I have to agree about the Kepplinger, they are tops and are on 3 of five of my Rugers. The two with they Moyers are tropicals, where I do not feel the Kepplinger is justified because of it's cost.

Sit down.








$270 with return shipping. Keep in mind that they're also made in batches of only about 5 or 6 each year by hand. I only have them on two of my No. 1s; my 1B in .257 Roberts and my 1V in .22-250. My other No. 1s, a 1A in 7x57, a 1A in .270 WCF, and an RSI in 7x57, aren't accurate enough for me to justify the cost of one. (Both 1As are capable of slightly over MOA accuracy at 100 yards and can consistently print 2" groups at 200 yards, which should be fine for my hunting endeavors. The RSI I just received back from Mark on Tuesday and haven't taken it to the range yet.) The guns without the Penrod triggers have all had their factory units worked over for very crisp 2 1/2 pound pulls.

Methinks I shall stick with my modified Moyers one the tropicals, I like them better the more my pocketbook thinks about them.

I will also keep the Kepplingers in my 1A 7x57, and the standard rifles in 22 Hornet and 30-06

2.5# will hunt, and not bad for factory, is that honing plus spring lightening?

KC, true that......lost my job last Dec. and back at half pay in a new job in April, no toys to speak of this year.......you have to pay to play if you want the best no doubt. Those Austrians make fine triggers, and Swarovski makes fine optics......

Yep.

The price for the trigger is right in line with a Kepplinger. Brownell's currently sells the Kepplinger for a cool $269.99 plus shipping for retail customers and $181.76 plus shipping for FFL discounts. E. Arthur Brown wants $239 plus shipping. Keep in mind Penrod's price includes return shipping and installation labor in addition to the cost of the trigger.

Speaking of #1 triggers, can anyone identify what set trigger is on this #1?

http://www.hallowellco.com/erheart%20ruger%20no1%20300%20win.htm

If you look at a couple of the pictures you can see how the trigger is built.

Thanks,
j

Looks like the Kepplinger to me...

Yep, Kepplinger.

Thanks guys, I was wondering what to expect when it shows up here.

j

You bought that? DAY-UM!!!!! That's a beautiful rifle and quite a bargain to boot!

That is a bargain!! The barrel, trigger and engraving are worth that; you got the wood, action and scope for free.

Thanks guys, I knew it was a great deal when I saw it. Morris Hallowell is a class act to deal with. I am trying to work up courage to go after one of the sidelock shotguns he has for sale.

The #1 shipped on the 29th, I knew better than to let anyone see it before it was headed to Texas.

J

Bricktop
How about just posting the side note on trigger tuning here???
Just a thought.
Thanks
Tim

Hey guys, the Erheart Ruger #1 showed up out here. The workmanship is absolutely top notch. The trigger is wonderful. The wood to metal fit is excellent, the rear sight center lines are even gold.

I got an excellent deal from Mr. Hallowell. His website is going to stay on my short list.

j

Let me see what I can do. I'm out of town right now, so it'll be a few days.

http://members.cox.net/p35hipower/Ruger%20No.%201%20TriggerA.jpg
http://members.cox.net/p35hipower/Ruger%20No.%201%20TriggerB.jpg

https://share.acrobat.com/adc/document.do?docid=7196a849-356b-4da0-ae3c-c2cf4fe33298

BT,
Thanks for the article and Link. A good read; I might even try some trigger work myself now.
ENU

ENU,
And anyone else that tries to do trigger work that way on a Ruger # 1,
please be very careful.

I wasn't going to comment on this because of the person that up loaded the article, but I don't want to see anyone get into trouble trying to do a good trigger job that way, there are no short cuts, you have to take the gun apart to do a correct job.

Look over the article and pictures very carefully, a good trigger job can not be done with the hammer and sear still in the gun. About the only thing this guy got correct was how to take the hammer spring and strut out of the gun.

Referring to the lower pictures.

In Picture 1 he's referring to the sear surface, not so, that is the hammer notch surface.

In Picture 2 he's still referring to it as the sear, again not so, that's the hammer.

And of course in Picture 3 he's still referring to the hammer as the sear.

There is no way any one can do a good trigger job on a # 1 without removing the hammer and sear from the gun, all he did was remove the hammer spring and strut from the gun.

And all he accomplished was a bit of polishing on the hammer notch while it was still in the gun, also not a good idea, if your going to polish the hammer notch it should be kept absolutely square, and it's just about imposable to do so with the hammer still in the gun, it takes much more than that to get a good trigger job.

Be very careful of these so called experts that write articles, especially the ones that don't seem to know the difference between a hammer and a sear and tries to do trigger jobs while the critical parts are still in the gun.
Ruger # 1 Guy

You know what I'm careful to avoid? Buttholes who can't back up anything they claim and have ulterior motives for posting. Like you for instance. You have some sort of financial interest in promoting Moyers products and you can't back up a damned thing you post. Period. You absolutely refuse to answer any questions, publicly or offline, and you put every damned bit of your energy into attacking and impugning peoples' character vice just explaining your position. That's what I would caution everyone to avoid.

Show everyone an example of your work or provide some references. I've provided references to you. Now it's your turn.

I expected you to respond like an AH, thanks for not disappointing me.

There are a lot of guys on this forum that know who I am and I have no reason to prove anything, I've been in this gun game for over 50 years now and if you think I am BS'in the guys on this forum you have a lot to learn.

Are you saying that the article you are trying to get the guys on this forum to swallow is legit and useful ?. Are you saying that what is being pointed out to the readers as a sear is a sear, if so your dumber than dumb and probably never had a # 1 apart.

I have no reason to degrade any article that is factual and is a help to the reader, that article is just about useless, unless you need to know how to take the hammer spring and strut out of the gun. One last word of caution guys, please do not try to "polish" the hammer while it's still in the gun, no real gunsmith would ever do something like that, and if you find one that will try it, run, don't walk away from him.

You seem to think that I have some financial interest in Moyer products, you probably got that idea because of me saying that I installed a bunch of them without any problems. I've said this before and I'll say it again, I don't know Moyer and I have never even talked to him. I have said more than once that I don't use Moyer triggers because there not good enough for the type of shooting I do. When I was installing them they were more than good enough as a hunting trigger.

All I do now is try an help others with there gun problems as a consultant, and shoot in rifle matches, and of course I use # 1's for that purpose, those that know me know that I've shot in hundreds of events over many years all over the US and Europe, held my own in most of them and still hold a few records.

Now please tell us in all your glory how many events you have shot in ?, how many have you won ?, and how many triggers have you worked on ?.

If your answer is none or just a few you better go back an set on your crapper, read some more books, then come back and amaze us with your knowledge, in fact you may learn something while setting there trying to become smart if you look close at a Ruger # 1 instruction manual, if you find some parts in the manual that looks like the pictures in that article please let us know what the factory calls them.
And please don't forget to wipe.

You are like a little child whining, crying, and just about ready to have a temper "tampon" just because you don't know who I am or what my back ground is, and a lot of the other guys do, guess you feel left out, tell ya what I'm going to do, I'm going to give you a little hint as to my back ground, last month I shot in a shoulder to shoulder State Single Shot Rifle Event on the East Coast, I used two # 1's in two different events, won the group event, came in second in the score event. The results are posted. If my ID is so important to you and being that you seem so interested in what I have done or what I'm still doing, go find the results, you will see my name listed, then you will know who I am, what I have done, and what my back ground is.
Hopefully that will keep you busy for awhile.
Ruger # 1 Guy

And I expected you to respond like an unethical, self-absorbed piece of horse dung. Because that's just your nature.

Name one. You spend a LOT of time beating your own drums, but you NEVER back up ANYTHING you post. NEVER. Here's your chance, sport.

I posted an article that may be of interest to a few people. You're obviously too damned stupid to read and process it, which is why I didn't post it for your benefit. But be that as it may, the article's author is our very own Mule Deer. You claim to be some kind of BIG DOG, let's see how big your nuts are. Take him to task over your perceived slights.

You expend a LOT of energy promoting Moyers products. A LOT. Much more so than a casual observer. These are your posts from another board:

"I've installed over 20 Moyer # 1 Triggers and only had two that were not what I thought they should be, sent them back to Moyers and had replacement triggers in about a week."

"I do have more than a passing interest in the Moyer Trigger"

"if someone wants to have a three screw trigger at this time Moyer is the only game in town and for under $ 50.00"

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=57461&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15

No, you beat your chest, bang the drums and spend a LOT of time telling everybody how damned good you think you are. I've asked for some validation from you repeatedly. I've asked for your references and the best I can get is the same old, tired crap like "There are a lot of guys on this forum that know who I am." If a "lot of guys on this forum" know who you are, then speak up. Tell the rest of us. Let everybody else share in your super-secret knowledge and superstardom.

My ego is fine and I'm quite secure without self-esteem issues. I don't have any need to tell everyone I'm important like you've been doing.

No, I seem to recall that's been your role and sole function in this thread.

What I really want to know is if you've got the stones to take this writer to task over his article. He's an active poster on this board. Step up and show what you have.

An FYI to everyone else: this crybaby shill has his account set up to block PMs from EVERYONE now. He won't allow anyone to question his information.

What credibility you thought you had, Mr. Moyers Shill aka Ira Paine aka Joe Miller, has just been flushed down your crapper. Maybe that's where you belong.

I'm sorry that you don't like the Moyer trigger. I got one for my #3 and my #1, both were a bit rougher than expeced, but all in all decent purchases. The BEST thing I did for both was the purchase of a speed hammer. I honestly had my doubts, but while looking for a better trigger I decided to try one. Man what a difference. To get it to work well you need an adjustable trigger and unfortunately your stuck with the Moyer.

You are very, very, very WRONG. The factory trigger is adjustable and there are plenty of other options including the Kepplinger and now-defunct Canjar as well. The Moulds speed hammer will function just fine with a properly tuned factory trigger and others. We've discussed this previously.

What I still want to know is if Ruger_1_Guy has the stones to take the author of this article to task. He's sure talked a good game and told everybody he's a big man in his mind.

Now that this has turned ugly, I really hesitate to add my two cents but as usual I throw common sense out the window and proceede.
I read that article in RIFLE magazine when it came out, scanned it for keeps, and have followed the directions. I was not critical as to the proper terminology on the parts mentioned, just followed the directions and pictures with the usual caution when working on triggers. The result was an improved trigger pull just below #3

It's funny how that works, isn't it? Especially after some self-appointed, self-important internet "expert" claims otherwise and has insulted everyone with an interest in the article.

I'm still waiting to see if he has the nuts to talk to Mule Deer about it. Come on Ruger_1_Guy/Ira Paine/Joe Miller, Jon Barsness aka Mule Deer is active on this very board. Now's your chance to speak up about what you claim to know. Call him out. You called me out for simply posting the article, now discuss it with the author. Let's see how BIG you really are.

There is no way I will name the guys on this forum that know who I am, maybe you would do something like that but I respect them and I would consider that an invasion of there privacy, if they want you to know they will tell you.

"I posted an article that may be of interest to a few people. But be that as it may, the article's author is our very own Mule Deer. Take him to task over your perceived slights."

Then maybe you should have sent it to the "few" people that read your crap. As far as Mule Deer goes, I really don't know him, but if he would like to debate the article in your behalf I would be happy to talk things over with him, especially the parts about the hammer, sear, and doing a trigger job while the critical parts are still in the gun, I take it that you and he are close friends, this should be beneficial to all the members of this forum.

"You expend a LOT of energy promoting Moyers products. A LOT. Much more so than a casual observer. These are your posts from another board"

"I've installed over 20 Moyer # 1 Triggers and only had two that were not what I thought they should be, sent them back to Moyers and had replacement triggers in about a week."
TRUE.

"I do have more than a passing interest in the Moyer Trigger"
TRUE,
And this is where he got that quote.

Yes jackie, I do have more than a passing interest in the Moyer Trigger, and I don't know Moyer or have anything to do with his business. In fact I have more than a passing interest in any product that helps the shooting sports.

"if someone wants to have a three screw trigger at this time Moyer is the only game in town and for under $ 50.00"
TRUE.

It was not promoting, I was only telling every one my experience. That's much more than what you have been doing.

"If a "lot of guys on this forum" know who you are, then speak up."
READ THE BEGGING OF THIS POST.

Originally Posted By: Ruger_1_Guy
Now please tell us in all your glory how many events you have shot in ?, how many have you won ?, and how many triggers have you worked on ?.

NO REAL ANSWER.
And that's with I figuered, you haven't ever done anything except whine and cry on the internet and try an impress guys with how many books you may have read. Try DOING something, get some hands on experience, then come back and impress us.

Originally Posted By: Ruger_1_Guy
All I do now is try an help others with there gun problems as a consultant, and shoot in rifle matches, and of course I use # 1's for that purpose, those that know me know that I've shot in hundreds of events over many years all over the US and Europe, held my own in most of them and still hold a few records.

Originally Posted By: Ruger_1_Guy
You are like a little child whining, crying, and just about ready to have a temper "tampon" just because you don't know who I am or what my back ground is, and a lot of the other guys do, guess you feel left out,

"No, I seem to recall that's been your role and sole function in this thread."

NO my function in this thread is to inform guys that they should not try an do a trigger job with the critical parts still in the gun.

"What I really want to know is if you've got the stones to take this writer to task over his article. He's an active poster on this board. Step up and show what you have."

Not a problem, have your friend Mr. Mule Deer start a tread about Ruger # 1 triggers and I'm sure we can get together and talk about theses things. It doesn't take "stones", it takes brains.

"An FYI to everyone else: this crybaby shill has his account set up to block PMs from EVERYONE now. He won't allow anyone to question his information."

I don't believe in sneaky e mails, anything I type or say is OPEN to all members of this forum, that's how others will learn, no one will learn, much with one on one e mails. And I don't have time for crank or BS e mails.

"What credibility you thought you had, Mr. Moyers Shill aka Ira Paine aka Joe Miller, has just been flushed down your crapper."

Mr. Moyers Shill, WRONG, Ira Paine, WRONG, Joe Miller, WRONG.

As I've said, I don't know Moyer or much of anything about him other than he made triggers.

As to Ira Paine and Joe Miller, I do know something about them and know what they have done in the shooting world. I'm very proud of them because of there accomplishments and to be talked about with them in the same sentence is an honor.
Thank You.


From your last post:
"The factory trigger is adjustable as well."

Why do you keep trying to convince guys that the factory trigger is adjustable, I'm sure you know by this time that when it comes to adjustments it's about useless. It does not have the third screw, the one that gives you the adjustable sear engagement. That's what the Moyers trigger is all about, without the third screw the trigger would be the same as the factory trigger, useless.

Yes, of course it can be worked on, like any other trigger, but there is no way for it to give adjustable sear engagement.
Ruger # 1 Guy

You won't name them because THEY DON'T EXIST.

Are you jealous or something? Are you unable to get any love and attention? There are mental health counseling centers, you should use one. Or many. Just get help.

Are you scared of him? Are you that damned socially inept that you find it painful to have a discussion?

No, that's your department and you're VERY good at it. Just look at the nonsense you've posted this far.

Yep, you're afraid of adult interaction. You're the one with the problem with the article, not him. Man up or shut your mouth, so to speak.

No, you're afraid of being called to account for your lies and shameless self-promotion.

No, they're all noms de guerre as used by you.

There's no convincing needed. It's a simple FACT: the factory Ruger trigger is perfectly adjustable provided a proper level of honing has been accomplished. The sear engagement screw is nice to have, but utterly unnecessary.

The basic facts of this discussion with you reveals one thing in particular: YOU ARE A SELF-ABSORBED IDIOT WHO IS AFRAID OF HIS OWN SHADOW.

You've been given the opportunity to post references. You refused.

You've been given the opportunity to speak directly with the author of the magazine article to which you've taken issue. You refused.

My grandad had a term for people like you: paper a$shole.

Ruger No. 1 Guy,

I am the guy who wrote the article. One thing I would caution you about is a frequent mistake, and that's believing that every article that appears in any magazine is printed just as written.

I know the difference between a hammer notch and a sear and don't recall writing the article the way it came out. But then quite often things didn't come out the way writers write them, especially in some magazines.

I've also worked over enough No. 1 triggers the way described to be unable to recall exactly how many. Most of the rifles are still in my posession. None has ever exhibited any problem and in every case the trigger pull was improved considerably.

It's relatively easy to keep things square when polishing a trigger surface as long as all you do is polish it. If you can't do that, then....

I really don't much care how many single-shot matches you've taken part in, or what trophies you've won. That has as much to do with working on a trigger as cooking moose meat has to do with internal ballistics. I use that simile because one of my articles on internal ballistics once inspired a reader to write in, attenpting to show how much more he knew about ballistics. His "proof" was how often he cooked moose.

Hi Mule Deer,
Good to hear from you. And am happy you know the difference between a hammer and a sear, also happy to see your a MAN and admit that the article was printed WRONG, the caps are for your friend.

I understand you not caring about how many Single-Shot Matches I've shot in, or how many trophies I've won, it's not your thing, and it's no different than me not caring how many Mule Deer hunts you have been on or how many you have shot, it's not my thing, but I respect your interest and at least we are both interested in # 1's.

My interest is in shooting and your interest seems to be in hunting, not a problem with that. To each his own.

As far as working on # 1's, your idea of getting a good trigger with just some polishing may be ok, but a lot of the # 1's that I've worked on had 5 and 6 + trigger pulls and it would take a lot more that polishing the hammer notch to get a good trigger.

I concede that if a person knows the difference between a hammer notch and a sear, and is somewhat mechanical inclined he may be able to do a decent hunting type trigger, but you know, I know, and most any good gunsmith knows there is no short cut to getting a really "good" trigger, you have to take the critical parts out of the gun and work on them.

Sorry you had to get involved in this, and also sorry that the magazine screwed up your article. Again, I respect the fact that you admit that the article was printed wrong, some other guys would never admit that. In fact some guys would not know it was printed wrong and just accept it as is. I'm sure some of them are on this forum.
Best Regards Mule Deer, and Good Luck on your next endeavor.

Bricktop, if your thinking of responding to this, don't expect a fast reply. I'll be gone on a shoot for about a week and a half, but I shall return.
Ruger # 1 Guy

I don't think it really matters, because you'll never have anything of any substance worth contributing now or in a week-and-a-half and you'll be just as thick-headed and ignorant as ever. No one can tell you anything, because you're so damned smart you already know EVERYTHING, you won't admit fault or even that someone might have a little bit better way to skin a cat, etc. It's just more and more of the same old sorry-ass BS from you and it'll always be that way. I'm sure you'll treat each and every one of us to a fantastic tale about how you won this match or that match and how everybody knows who you are, blah, blah, blah, ad nauseam. Christ, just do everyone a favor and go away.

I've watched this thread on no.1 triggers turn from being fairly informative into one that is nothing more than someone getting so worked up over proper naming of parts that they lost the original intent of the article!!

News papers cannot gr a person's article right most of the time, why should a rifle mag be any different ?
As was stated , Mule Deer knows that difference, ad i would have oped that everyone else did as well.
if they didn't , I'm sure they would be corrected, but not slammed for it.

As far as target competitions and hunting goes, the only difference really that I can see is that one is an activity where a number of shots are scored, and the other is where it takes maybe two or even three shots to get the expected results.
Just because a person does not participate in target competition does not mean that they do not shoot regularly, know what they are about when it comes to firearms, or or gunsmithing for that matter.

I haven't shot a registered smallbore or fullbore match in over 20 years myself, but I put an average of 100 rounds downrange on targets every weekend, I'm still shooting, just not competing.
it certainly does not mean that I know nothing about shooting, which is , I believe , what what the import of the slam towards Mule Deer was.

Hopefully everyone who tries the instructions in the article will get some worth out it, and ignore those that decide to use disparaging remarks to get their point across in the future.

Now, where were we? TRIGGERS!! Yup, Rugers have them, in fact the last time I checked every single shot rifle I own has one!
Some are good, others are not.
I fix the ones that are not.
Keep up the good work you do , Mule Deer.
'Nuff said....
Cat

Bricktop - Listen chuckle head I don't know who you think you are, but as said in the above post, THE CURRENT FACTORY TRIGGER IS NOT FULLY ADJUSTABLE! Sure it has two screws that are easily fiddled with one being over travel and the other supposidly adjusting the trigger spring pressure. If the trigger spring wasn't something out of a half ton truck you might get some use out of this adjustment, while in reality there isn't any real adjustment at all. Replacing this spring does make this adjustmet work. Ruger removed the one screw, the third screw inside the action, that truly counts long long ago. While the moyer trigger isn't perfect, it adjusts better than the factory model.

When I replaced my triggers and hammers with "speed hammers" I didn't do anything other than a fine polish with a high quality stone on the sear, no real material removal and let it go at that. All I can say is that there was an immediate improvement in the quality of my triggers. I suppose it would be an easy matter for an internet hero like yourself to call me a liar, but exactly what would you gain from that? Also you could scream, "Who the heck are you (am I )." Well, I'm bascially nobody ... I was once a moderator on a very large predator hunting site ... My Ruger #3 is fairly well known as a coyote killing machine ... My Rugers aren't closet queens, I use them for predator hunting and they (mostly the #3) are worked hard for a good part of the year. No tree stands and pampering for my guns.

Were you able to understand ANYTHING in my post? ANYTHING? Because it doesn't appear you did. Allow me to reiterate a couple of things that seem to have gone over your head:

The current factory Ruger trigger can be honed and polished for an outstanding trigger pull. PERIOD.

The sear engagement screw is not necessary for a good trigger pull. PERIOD. See previous statement.

There are many other options available besides the Moyers trigger; i.e. Kepplinger, Canjar (discontinued), original three-screw Ruger triggers, etc.

The syntax of your post (your misspellings and language usage) and silly claims ("I was once a moderator on a very large predator hunting site" and "My Ruger #3 is fairly well known as a coyote killing machine ... My Rugers aren't closet queens, I use them for predator hunting and they (mostly the #3) are worked hard for a good part of the year. No tree stands and pampering for my guns.") sound exactly like the last idiot: Ruger_1_Guy. Like his statements, yours don't prove squat. And just like him, you will NEVER offer anything of any substance for anyone. Just character attacks and more and more chest thumping.

Christ, just give us all a break. For a change.

You sir are EXACTLY what gives bulletin boards like this one a bad name.

You clearly don�t like the Moyer trigger, the significance of exactly who your are or why it should matter is totally lost on me. My only point is, while I�d like to see a nicer product, I�ve had good luck with the ones I�ve installed and I�d buy another one. When I searched for another trigger option the only one that came to light was the Moyer. A set trigger was never an option for me.

Here�s another one for yeah buddy, I never said that you couldn�t hone and fuss with the factory trigger until it is very decent. I said that I had good experiences with the products I wrote about. Why you feel so invested in running down the products and the people in this thread is beyond me?

You're doing a bang-up job without my assistance.

It doesn't matter who I am and it shouldn't matter who anyone is. You haven't offered any qualifiers to prove otherwise.

Here's what you posted:

And this is completely WRONG.

A true cut and paste artist... very clever, I came in here to have a civil conversation about Ruger #1 and #3 rifles. Most of the participants have been quite decent, but this type of posting activity disappoints me to no end. I�m ashamed of taking any part in this. I hope your proud of your contributions.

I quoted what you posted. If you're afraid of being caught in a lie, then tell the truth. If you're embarrassed about the crap you post, then don't post.

No you didn't. You came here to beat the drums, just like your boy -- and possible other nom de guerre -- Ruger_1_Guy and feign outrage.

I haven't seen anything of value in any of your posts on this subject. Nothing at all.

Listen chuckle head?

What a way to fit in................

Meek have found a home.

Cat,

Thanks.

Let's drop it all here.

The bilateral snipings can go on through PM channels. They are becoming diolgues of the deaf anyway.

1B

Thanks Bricktop. Much appreciated.

mrk

After sending back the Moyer's trigger, I found a smith in the area.
I'll be getting the .270 Win in 1B config. back tomorrow, we'll see how good a trigger job he did. Stated on the phone 3.5# pull. Also had the Mould's speed hammer installed, let's hope I can shrink the 1.5" groups a bit.
6.5# was a bit much to tolerate.......