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Building the first run of sidelever falling block actions, I've documented the process so far.

The first step obviously is to extract the action from the plate of 8620 steel in which it is contained. I am fortunate to have a wire EDM in house. While it is capable of far greater accuracy than is required for simply profiling the action, precision is never wasted.

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Once the batch of action bodies are all profiled, holes are drilled to located the starting point for the wire path to cut the breech block cavity, and a fixture is made to hole the actions during the cut.

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Breech blocks were wire cut before I started on the actions. The fit is extremely precise with .001" clearance for movement. Wire EDM is a very slow process and it's done under a powerful flush of water to cool the wire and clear eroded metal from the cut. 

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The tang surfaces are machined with tapers in both horizontal and vertical axis. There are also flats left on the interior edges of the tangs to index onto the inletting of the stock to negate any movement of the action once it's seated. Actions are secured to the stock with a drawbolt.

From there the pockets for the trigger group, cocking lever and extractor are machined. Also the hole in the side of the action for the sidelever stem.

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Actions are flipped over and the cartridge trough is machined in. A mock assembly of the sidelever, breech block and trigger group housing ( also made before the action bodies were started) is hard to resist.
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The trigger group is removeable and tuneable for pull weight and sear engagement. The rim of a cartridge can be used to push back the locking plunger at the rear of the trigger group pocket in the bottom tang.

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Set in another fixture dedicated to the machining of the face of the action and associated steps. A 2" deep hole is drilled at the center of the hole for the barrel. This establishes the center of the bore and the center of the pocket for the striker and that the two are perfectly aligned.

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The face of the action is trued to ensure it is perfectly perpendicular to the bore. This is where the barrel seats and is a very important step to ensure accuracy. Not unlike facing the end of a bolt rifle action.

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Now the hole for the barrel can be machined. The breech block is in the action during this setup, so the bottom of the barrel hole will form the face for the breech block in a very precise manner. Not only will it be perpendicular, it is also machined to a known depth allowing the machining of the barrel shank to be done to the exact length. The breech block is tilted forward 3 degrees, so accurately cutting the breech block face any other way would be far more time consuming and wouldn't yield the precision this setup offers.

Also, the picture below shows the location of the center of the bore is well below the top edge of the breech block pocket. This allows the full diameter of the chamber, and case thrust for firing, are fully supported in the action. Even though the breech block extends to the bottom of the action, this helps prevent the case thrust from torquing the breech block and further localizing the area of the action that would absorb the case thrust. Having the camber area fully supported keeps the distribution of the case thrust over a much more broad area.

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With the barrel hole machined, the threads can be machined with a thread mill. Precision threads cut in perfect alignment with the hole, the action face and breech block face.

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The finished barrel shank hole and threads

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This is way over what I can understand...
Thanks for sharing, Bailey.
Awesome.

Thank you!

Guy
You sir are a mechanical artist !
Bailey can do it all, from damascus, machining, the wood, and engraving. Keep us posted as you work on it.
Tag this^^^^
Absolutely stunning workmanship.
the skill level required to do this is out of sight.
Originally Posted by okie
Tag this^^^^

Tag for sure. I got to see how this ends up.
I saw the pricing for the rising block rifles on your website. If I may ask publicly, what range are you asking for a complete sidelever falling?

In my case, it would be fairly plain. Maybe a French border is all the engraving I would want. Color case receiver and grip cap. London red recoil pad. No open sites but set up for Talleys. 25" round barrel #1 to 2 ish contour with front band. Cartridge would be in the x57 or -06 family. I have had 280 Ackley on my mind lately but not sure yet. In the 7 pound range plus or minus a 1/4. Inlet rear swivel. I have a bolt action blank from Dressels many years ago I never used. I live two hours up US69 from you in Grayson County.

Thanks!
Originally Posted by okie
Tag this^^^^

Tag for sure. I got to see how this ends up.
Thanks for posting this. Can't wait to see more.
Oh, my word.
Originally Posted by dSmith_45
I saw the pricing for the rising block rifles on your website. If I may ask publicly, what range are you asking for a complete sidelever falling?

In my case, it would be fairly plain. Maybe a French border is all the engraving I would want. Color case receiver and grip cap. London red recoil pad. No open sites but set up for Talleys. 25" round barrel #1 to 2 ish contour with front band. Cartridge would be in the x57 or -06 family. I have had 280 Ackley on my mind lately but not sure yet. In the 7 pound range plus or minus a 1/4. Inlet rear swivel. I have a bolt action blank from Dressels many years ago I never used. I live two hours up US69 from you in Grayson County.

Thanks!


An action ready to barrel and stock is $1850, although I do have one of this initial batch available for $1500. A finished rifle on this action with you supplying the wood, and the details you outlined is going to be $6000.

Your close enough for a visit. The door is open, just let me know when your coming.
Originally Posted by BaileyBradshaw
Originally Posted by dSmith_45
I saw the pricing for the rising block rifles on your website. If I may ask publicly, what range are you asking for a complete sidelever falling?

In my case, it would be fairly plain. Maybe a French border is all the engraving I would want. Color case receiver and grip cap. London red recoil pad. No open sites but set up for Talleys. 25" round barrel #1 to 2 ish contour with front band. Cartridge would be in the x57 or -06 family. I have had 280 Ackley on my mind lately but not sure yet. In the 7 pound range plus or minus a 1/4. Inlet rear swivel. I have a bolt action blank from Dressels many years ago I never used. I live two hours up US69 from you in Grayson County.

Thanks!


An action ready to barrel and stock is $1850, although I do have one of this initial batch available for $1500. A finished rifle on this action with you supplying the wood, and the details you outlined is going to be $6000.

Your close enough for a visit. The door is open, just let me know when your coming.


That is really reasonable for a hand built rifle. Let me give this a serious think and I'll give you a call.
Originally Posted by dSmith_45
Originally Posted by BaileyBradshaw
Originally Posted by dSmith_45
I saw the pricing for the rising block rifles on your website. If I may ask publicly, what range are you asking for a complete sidelever falling?

In my case, it would be fairly plain. Maybe a French border is all the engraving I would want. Color case receiver and grip cap. London red recoil pad. No open sites but set up for Talleys. 25" round barrel #1 to 2 ish contour with front band. Cartridge would be in the x57 or -06 family. I have had 280 Ackley on my mind lately but not sure yet. In the 7 pound range plus or minus a 1/4. Inlet rear swivel. I have a bolt action blank from Dressels many years ago I never used. I live two hours up US69 from you in Grayson County.

Thanks!


An action ready to barrel and stock is $1850, although I do have one of this initial batch available for $1500. A finished rifle on this action with you supplying the wood, and the details you outlined is going to be $6000.

Your close enough for a visit. The door is open, just let me know when your coming.


That is really reasonable for a hand built rifle. Let me give this a serious think and I'll give you a call.


Sounds good. Let me know if you have any questions
trigger group housings. First profiled out of 1/2" plate, holes spotted for the pivot points of the trigger and sear, and a window that displays the trigger/ sear engagement.

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The housings are then surface ground to final thickness, slotted to accept internal parts, holes drilled and reamed, and the parts are deburred.

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Triggered.....

Triggers and sears installed in the housings. Next will be to install springs, adjustment and set screws. The triggers are adjustable for pull and seat engagement. The larger house in the housing is for viewing the sear/trigger engagement.

Also, the pivot point for the trigger is towards the rear. This reduces the amount of travel at the blade of the trigger, but amplifies the travel at the front. This reduces felt creep. The forces acting on the trigger from the mainspring to the sear are perpendicular to the pivot point of the trigger. Again, to reduce drag, creep and helps make the trigger more crisp

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Truely awesome in design and execution. As Vin Diesel would say, "I live for this shyt" RJ
Organization always helps productivity especially when working on several at a time. Just a few components left to make and assembling then begins

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Shot of few videos filing up one of the sidelevers. This just gets the lever to shape and ready to start polishing.

https://youtu.be/MA8YVJESIqE

https://youtu.be/wJ1drdP_5Kc

https://youtu.be/WgkgPIrKei8

https://youtu.be/h0hvQlxwR0E

https://youtu.be/t9VYpmslZc0
Amazing work, looking forward to seeing it all come together! Thanks for taking the time to put these threads online.
Looking good Bailey!
Making more progress on the sidelever actions. Safety is installed and operates smoothly and crisp. It blocks both the sear and trigger.

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Filed up the trigger guard and trigger. Sure makes a difference to add some shape

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This action is ready to harden the internal components and polish every surface. It cocks, fires, extractor is timed and stout, safety works and it opens and closes like butter. I'll polish it up and get on to the next action. One at a time at this point

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Let the polishing begin. Start with files where needed, then stone from 220 to 400 and move to paper up to 400. A little wd-40 for lubricant.

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Why do you like to start with stones and then move to paper?
using stones first keeps things crisp and flat until all of the tool marks are out. Then moving to paper to create a more uniform finish.
Thanks. I’ve never used stones before, just paper backed by the right shape of wood. My needs have needed much less precision than yours!
Bailey, anyone who thinks hand built rifles are expensive should watch this "build along", to see the work involved. It might change their opinion. I pretty much already knew that a lot of time consuming work is involved, but your excellent coverage has surely refreshed my mind. RJ
It is really enjoyable to watch a true artist at work. Much knowledge, along with MUCH patience is involved. Thanks for posting all the videos. I had no idea how much hand work is involved. Russ
Hephaestus, beautiful post, thanks.
Originally Posted by BaileyBradshaw


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In this picture, what was heated or welded on the lower tang next to the receiver?
Thank you for this whole thread, very fun to watch them progress.
Originally Posted by bigJ
Originally Posted by BaileyBradshaw


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In this picture, what was heated or welded on the lower tang next to the receiver?
Thank you for this whole thread, very fun to watch them progress.



There are two studs that hold the front end of the trigger group. The stem of the stud passes to the outside surface of the bottom tang and are welded in place.
This one is 99% finished. Amazing what a good polish will do. Fully functional and ready to barrel. It will wear a Brux barrel and be chambered for the 6.5x65R cartridge. Very comparable to the 6.5-06 but with a rim. It also has an incredibly beautiful stock blank of curly Turkish walnut selected.

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I will make a video that goes through all of the features and operation in the next day or so.
I can't wait to see the stocking.

Originally Posted by BaileyBradshaw
Originally Posted by bigJ
Originally Posted by BaileyBradshaw




In this picture, what was heated or welded on the lower tang next to the receiver?
Thank you for this whole thread, very fun to watch them progress.



There are two studs that hold the front end of the trigger group. The stem of the stud passes to the outside surface of the bottom tang and are welded in place.


Thank you. What a sexy looking action.
The action is barreled with a Brux 6.5 chrome molly, chambered in 6.5X65R. It's fully funtional and ready for stocking.

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https://youtu.be/6WbFkeThzLA
Mr. Bradshaw, this thread has been fun to watch, and I'm very impressed with your workmanship, sir! I love fine single shot rifles, and I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product! Thank you so much for posting this thread! One of these days, I may own one of your fine rifles.
Any chance of a few pictures of the making/fitting of the 1/4 rib?
Here is the stock blank for the 6.5X65R barreled action. Well selected by the customer. Should turn a stunner of a stock. I won't be stocking it. That will be done by Aaron Little. Very talented and will do a fantastic job.

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Very nice! Gonna be a beautiful rifle!
Better get the wallet out Ted! LOL
Mercy.
Absolutely gorgeous. A beautifully executed rendition of a classic style of single shot rifle with modern engineering. Why did the buyer decide that he didn't want iron sights on the rifle?
All I can say is, wow...
Hello , my name is Steve Linson and that is my rifle Bailey built. It is beautiful, Bailey did an awesome job! Aaron Little is stocking it then it will go back to Bailey for case hardening and border engraving. I can’t wait to see it finished. I don’t think I would ever use open sights on this rifle that’s why I told Bailey to make it without them. No sights also makes rifle appear long and trim.
Well Steve, looks like you are getting a dandy! Congrats.
That is crazy talent right there.
Amazing. I can’t wait for the finished product.
Very cool. Craftsmanship like that is getting to be a lost art.
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