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Friend just told me that there is an article in September Gun Dog magazine about self tightening snares and how to deal with them. Was not aware that these were something to worry about till now.

While Az bans trapping on public lands they could be placed on private lands. Apparently other states could have them where we take our dogs. Worth knowing about.

Here is a good video on the subject:

https://www.google.com/search?q=coy...s-wiz#kpvalbx=_IOXWYt_wB_TTkPIP-cOziAM20
I never heard of a snare that tighten of it's own accord but I've used snares with locks that prevented the snare from loosening when slack occurred. I also used a stop on land sets which prevented the snare from tightening beyond a certain diameter. This allowed deer and moose to shake off the snare, hopefully at the site, rather than walk off with it and die of complications of being caught in the snare. More importantly at the time, it prevented the loss of the snare which was an expense to be avoided.

The stop prevented the snare from choking the trapped animal which allowed for its release if a non-targeted animal or one with a less than desirable condition pelt. Surprisingly, the non-killing snare usually caused less pelt damage as an animal that can breath did not fight against the snare as violently as one that was being strangled.

I caught a few dogs too, most were used to being tied out and stopped long before the stop when they realized they were caught. I can recall two that were down to the stop but suspect they were feral as I never saw them before and they did not have collars. They were also more viscous than anything else I caught, even wolves.

As such, I am much more concerned with Conibear traps than snares. Conibear type traps are designed to kill quickly and they do a very good job of it. I've used Conibears but always with trepidation as they are not selective.
Spring loaded snare.
Wire cutter or watch this.
I guess my wording was not that great. Didn't mean to misconstrue a self tightening snare with one that would automatically tighten on its own.

Woodmaster: I looked at several snares that are for sale. Do all snares come with the stop? If the stop is not included with the snare then there could be the chance someone could use one that tightens to the point of strangulation.
If my dog gets so far out in front that I don't know he's choking to death in a snare, I hope he chokes to death in a snare.
It’s the show dog trained dogs that range in 1/4 miles or more…
Similar info to wytex's under the heading Releasing Pets. https://fwp.mt.gov/hunt/trapping
Originally Posted by Azshooter
I guess my wording was not that great. Didn't mean to misconstrue a self tightening snare with one that would automatically tighten on its own.

Woodmaster: I looked at several snares that are for sale. Do all snares come with the stop? If the stop is not included with the snare then there could be the chance someone could use one that tightens to the point of strangulation.

We made our own snares, store bought snares cost too much. One can probably buy snares with stops premade but it would be a semi-custom order as the diameter at the stop would need to be specified. I'm guessing such an option would be found in the fine print somewhere.

The stop was merely a piece of conduit crimped onto the inside loop of the snare. A couple twists of wire often accomplished the same thing. We did that ourselves to prevent the loss of the snare if a deer or moose was caught as they could pull their foot out of the loop. I believe stops are now required in MN if using a snare for a dry set for precisely the reason mentioned.

Stops were not used on snares used for water sets as they were kill sets from the beginning. We used them mostly for beaver and beaver are strong enough to pull traps/snares up if not quickly killed. A loss of not just the snare but also a valuable pelt was not something one wanted to explain to Grandpa.

Wytex's video is a pretty good one regarding the various common snare mechanisms. They are actually fairly easy to open though if one is unfamiliar and in a hurry they could be tricky. Basically, they are like the inexpensive game hoists one can buy at the store used to hoist deer up to cool or skin. Add tension and it locks to keep the deer from falling, give it a little slack and the rope moves easily.

I haven't set a snare in decades, I moved from an area one could use them to one that they weren't allowed. Then the price of furs dropped, gas became more expensive, and I decided chasing a real job and girls was a better use of my time. I've set a few leg holds and a Conibear or two but most of my trapping these days are dog proofs for the raccoons that snoop around the chicken coop. And live traps for the occasional skunk that moves in under the outbuildings.
Thanks for the information gentlemen, good information shared about snares.
Wood:
Minnesota trapping regulations:
Snare breakaway requirements
Snares capable of taking a wild animal, except those set under the ice, must include a breakaway device rated to cause the snare loop to disassemble when 350 pounds or less of static force is applied.
bobmn, I use snares a bunch, I am happy we don't have the 350# rule here in Texas, I would lose about 1/2 the pigs i catch. Rio7
I didn't understand what the circumstances are
that these dogs are getting choked out.
Is it people's bird dogs stumbling into a set
on an unfamiliar hunting area, or stray dogs on
private property, or exactly what?
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