I want to replicate the color of the early 50s vintage pre-64 M70 stocks. Quite a few years ago I tried some stain supposedly duplicating the color, made by a guy by the name of Pilkinson if I remember: far too reddish. Minwax has come out with a "gunstock" # 231 that isn't bad. But would like to hear from those who have been pleased with what you've used. thanks guys.

I have used Miniwax gun stock many times. What I did recently to a 760 forearm that I removed the varnish with 2 separate coats and got it to light to match the butt stock which was about the right color, I mixed the gunstock stain with Gun Sav'r stock finish to darken the forearm with about 3 coats. I sealed both forearm and butt stock with Permasealer from Brownells with 3 to 4 coats. I should have stained the forearm before sealing but did not. I have done many 722 and 70 stocks with about the same procedure. I only use stain to darken lighter colors stocks.

I've had success with Laurel Mountain american walnut.
Phil

I have used Timberluxe stain, it closely matches pre'64 M/70 stock color.

I use John Kay's original formula, last marketed by Don Hardcastle [email protected] tel 254-848-4755 is what is on the bottle. I have an un-opened 2 ounce bottle if he is out of business.

The color of the stocks varied considerably during the 28 year M70 production run. There are more than a few late 40’s and early 50’s stocks with a tinge of red. Application procedures and materials utilized were not always the same.

I really like the stocks with that little hint of real Winchester red.

It's not made anymore but if you can find some Fairtrimmer's Military Ox rifle finish, it give a good color and finish.

Watco Danish Oil is supposed to be a good substitute, but I have never used it. There are various shades. It is available at stores like Lowe's.

I like just a hint of orange and red in the brown for shading.

Here is a 1955 Fwt with that finish.
https://imgur.com/QcqkZAV

I have successfully used Brownell's French Red Filler for blending in boo-boos and ow-ees. Rub it on bare wood per instructions, rub until you reach just slightly lighter than original finish, allow to dry according to instructions. Then apply final finish of choice. Hard to detect repairs. I personally have had no luck with Min Wax products. It apparently requires a level of skill that I don't have. Laurel Mountain products are the huckle berries IMO.

thanks for the info guys. srmike: that is VERY nice on the featherweight !!!

Here is the before.


https://imgur.com/AuAXMMo

There was a fellow out of WI (IIRC) that matched the stain and had a good technique for refinishing stocks. It was a good winter project that took numerous coats with sone elbow grease. Someone from AZ I believe bought the product and was selling it a few years ago. Maybe someone here remembers that and can put up a link - if it even exists anymore.

https://homesteadparts.com/shop/stock-oil-winchester-restorations-4-oz-p-1782.html

That is the very oil I related in my post; note the name and contact info on the bottle. Good stuff!

I've long been a believer in the use of aniline dyes rather than oil based stains. Way more color fast (think uv light deterioration) and easy to dilute with alcohol to achieve a subtle hue. Oil based stuff tends to muddy/cloud the grain to one degree or another, dyes make the grain "pop".

Or you can do what the old masters did and infuse alcohol with alkanet root for a truly reddish hue under the new finish. Didn't the factories use this in the early 20th century?

Here's the result of using Laurel Mountain american walnut stain. Uncut, original pre war stock, so worth the effort. Before and after.
Phil