Well it has been a work in progress for some time now. Started in Missouri last year, and finished here in New Mexico.

I bought this 1959 Alaskan from a well known model 70 dealer on the east coast about 2 years ago and when I got my hands on it I was really upset. The stock was cracked at the tang and at the rear of the trigger guard. It had been glass bedded. Someone had drilled a hole across the stock and filled the hole with epoxy in the same spot where a cross bolt is usually installed. None of this was disclosed at time of sale, nor did the pictures show this. I even called and talked live to the dealer and asked if there was anything not original with the stock ( he said "no").

Anyway I scoped it and shot it. It would group 2 close together and one flyer everytime. I started checking screw tightening, sequence of tightening, forearm screw torque, etc.. all the things I know to mess with on the M70's. Nothing worked. But when I paid attention and loosened the front action screw in the dead quiet, with my ear close, I could hear the barrel squeaking. I took it apart, reassembled, and tried again.... Squeak!! Okay I had a stock issue.

Well now the cool part. Found a stock that was rough inletted, barrel channel the size of a pencil, it had a Weatherby esque comb, and the bolt would not even fit in the slot. Best part it was 75 bucks. I bought it. The wrist was huge, and the forearm was really wide. Here was the day I started:



So I again wanted to go old school with no power tools. First up, cut to fit. This made me nervous but going slow I was able to maintain a straight cut and then sand it square in short order.



Then with a course file I knocked down the comb to a more classic M70 look.



After that i inletted the barrel channel, rear tang, and set the pillars:





I then bedded in the entire action, including the complete mag well. Every square bit of wood eventually was covered with Marine Tex. I even Marine Tex'd the entire bottom metal assembly as well. The barrel is completely free floated from the recoil lug and I eliminated the front forend screw. The pics show the progression.



[img]http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f95/hoagp/photo1_zps3599973b.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f95/hoagp/IMG_0765_zpsjmhesnmh.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f95/hoagp/IMG_0859_zpsmfajy0yf.jpg[/img]

On to the Flutes:

[img]http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f95/hoagp/IMG_0067_zps6y7havdj.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f95/hoagp/IMG_0072_zpshtunrets.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f95/hoagp/IMG_0907_zpsi9vtgsnd.jpg[/img]

More in post #2

I salvaged a grip cap from a Supergrade stock and went to work fitting it as well:





Now to contour into the but. Cabinet scrapers and small files work great for this. I also cut down on the angle that the cap sat, basically shortening up the grip 3/16 of an inch.







Now for the stock itself. I used some cabinet scrapers to shape the entire thing just the way I like it. I left a very small palm swell on the right side of the grip. I also did break my " no power tools" and I did use the upright belt sander to grind the original 1959 recoil pad down to fit the stock. I then skim bedded the pad to the stock with Marine Tex.



After that it was time for the Super Grade swivels. This was a tough one. I sat at the bench staring at the stock, trying to determine how to cut these out and have a nice smooth circle at both ends. I don't own a round gouger/chisel set. Then I started thinking. I have thousands of empty brass laying around, so I started comparing....

Guess what? 45ACP brass is the exact diameter and shape of the swivel bases. I took out the chamfer tool and chamfered until it was razor sharp.

[img]http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f95/hoagp/IMG_1025_zpspoidwh8s.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f95/hoagp/IMG_1023_zpsme1zeokq.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f95/hoagp/IMG_1024_zpsdf4zrhoe.jpg[/img]


[img]http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f95/hoagp/IMG_1034_zpsom0hkhns.jpg[/img]

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Now for the finishing. I went with what I used in the past, True Oil and Armor All. It went on great, but when I started the checkering process the finish started flaking off in huge pieces. I proceeded to checker the stock 3/4 of the way done and then strip the finish to redo. Here is the checkering. I went with a Supergrade wrap around ( first time trying this) as well as going borderless. Borderless is tough and there is no room for error as overruns stand out.













After that I switched gears and under the advice of Scotty, bought some Waterlox and finished with that instead. What a difference. Waterlox is the cats meow. Now it does come in both original gloss and a satin finish, I chose the gloss. I had read online that Mister Clean Majic Erasers worked great to knock down the gloss on it as a finish so I said " what the heck". Worked like a charm.

Here is the checkering after a few coats of waterlox to seal it.

[img]http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f95/hoagp/forearm%20stain_zpsz806h58w.jpg[/img]

And the finished project, next to the original.

[img]http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f95/hoagp/IMG_1844_zpscxgv27p6.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f95/hoagp/IMG_1845_zpswpy76de8.jpg[/img]

I have tried to accomplish in making a weatherproof walnut stock. There is zero wood that exposed that doesn't have either Marine Tex, or Waterlox on it. Even the swivel bases are epoxied in.

I already have some loads ready for her, even though I won't be using her this year in NM, I have full confidence she will be ready. A Burris 3x9x40 C4 is going on her in Talley steel mounts.

Absolutely beautiful work, light years beyond my skill set....

Could you share the name of the well known, east coast M70 dealer?

Very Nice stock work! Checkering looks superb!

Very, very nice. You have way more patience not to mention skills than I have.

I really hate people with talent.

Me too.

For example, nothing pisses me off more than Northern Dave posting pictures showing how he can turn a heap of iron oxide back into a great car...

John

Awesome work. Very awe inspiring. Now you can drive to the east coast and shove the other stock in that dealers azz!!!!!!

Nice, loved the journey. More finished pics.

Very Nice

That is absolutely fantastic!

Beautiful stock work Pat. I love the finish. Can't wait to hear how it wears for you. How many coats did you get on the stock?

WOW, awesome work!

I was at the LGS a couple days ago and thought to myself. If I could work a stock like pre6422hornet, I'd buy an intriguing rifle I found!!!!!

+1!! Really fun to read this thread. It turned out well and I like the old school craftsmanship!

Eric

Well done. Checkering is a skill I never tried to master, and now I think my aging eyes would be a deal breaker.

Most enjoyable post I've read here lately. Love the project and the progression. Great stuff! More pictures, please!
Bob

I agree. If you like this one, you'll like EricM's Alaskan too after Mr. Simillion is done with it..

Outstanding... You are a lucky man to have those skills.. Excellent!!

I will guess that he is in Florida.

Awesome skills and craftsmanship. Great post.

Just fantastic work,craftsmanship, I will make on rec, if you really want to make her super sharp, put yourself a supergrade thrubolt in her, they are engraved, I have an extra one some where ,I remember they were less than 30 bucks, they really set a stock off! Maybe its just me, I will take a photo of one of my stock with one one installed . again fantastic work!!! very best WinPoor

No it was Perry County. I have been told that the person responsible for this type of business is no longer working there, but it doesn't matter.

I was able to get her out and shoot her.

Scoped up in some Talley Low's with the C4 Burris.



This was the first load down the pipe after bore sighting. 180 gr BT;s over 67 of IMR 4350 in brand new Winchester brass: Those are seven consecutive shots " walking the scope". The last three are the top three, without adjusting the scope, 2 minutes in between shots.




Next up was the 210 Partition. I started with 69, 70, 71 and 73. 73 is listed as max charge in Nosler manual #4.

69:



71:



73:



That last group of 73 was three shots taken 15 minutes apart as it was getting hot here in NM. Even though it was sub MOA at .87 inches C to C, pressure was extreme and the brass had extrator marks and the bolt handle was extremely hard to lift. I am going to change powders and find some R19 after consulting with Quickload. For my case capacity, the IMR charge of 73 was at 59900 for pressure and not safe.

Very happy though for the rifle and I may even play with the seating depths a bit and try to bring that 71 charge in a bit. Not a bad day at the range.

I'd try 71.5 and 72 grains just to see what happens. How far off the lands are you running them? Most of my rifles work well with the partitions about .020" off... Looks like it's wanting to shoot them. Sounds like you should definitely back off the 73 gr. charge by about a grain though if you are seeing that much pressure...Again, very nice rifle. Excellent workmanship!!!