Alright, I've been messing around with AR's for a while now and I wanted to work on one of my model 70's. This has actually been an ongoing thing with this particular rifle. So here's the story. I'll try to keep it short: About a year ago, I decided I needed another 7mm magnum. So I bought a Tikka T3X superlite on sale. It came with a scope that I later sold. So I ended up paying $500.00 for the Tikka after selling the scope on Ebay. Then a week later I saw this 7 digit classic stainless 7WSM on Gunbroker. I had to bid on it, since the starting price was way low and no one had bid on it. Needless to say, I ended up buying it with no one else bidding on it. So now I have 2 7mm magnum rifles and I only needed/wanted 1. I put both rifles through their paces. Hunted with both of them and liked each one about equally. Here's the tikka out deer hunting and at the range:




Was the Tikka accurate? Hell yeah it was. Did it carry nice in the field. Hell yes. Was it light. Yep. Then why did I pick the model 70 over the Tikka, you might ask. Well, here's why:

1. Less recoil. I had 2 others shoot both rifles and confirm this.
2. It's a model 70, pure and simple.
3. Damn near as accurate as the Tikka: Caveat: after glass bedding and trigger work.
4. More Familiarity with the design.

I'm not knocking the Tikka by any means. They are a damn good rifle. When asked which "new" rifle would you buy, I always say Tikka.. But to me, a Tikka is not a Classic model 70. You winchester guys know where I stand on this. So, If I have not introduced you to my 7mm WSM elk rifle, here it is and here's what I have done with it:

1. Glass bed the tupperware
2. Freefloat the barrel
3. Paint the tupperware
4. Add red pachmayr. Ground and fit myself.
5. Tune the trigger to an even 2.5 pounds
6. Work up hand loads to shoot moa 5 shot groups
7. Add Leupold Dual dovetail bases and rings and a Zeiss 3-9x rifle scope
8. Recontour the floor plate: Get rid of all the sharp edges (a lot of 7 digits were like this).
9. Polished the receiver raceways, bolt body and extractor so it's butter smooth.

I've been envisioning the same paint scheme that I did with my 338wm for a long time now and it's finally done. I hope it's the lucky elk rifle this year, but you never know:




Take care guys and good luck with your hunts this year!!!!!

Looks Good BSA. Good luck on the Elk.

Thanks buddy..

I enjoyed reading that BSA! I'd wish you good luck but I'm pretty sure the way you operate, luck has nothing to do with it!

Very nice and I hear ya about the late classics bottom metal. Some were atrocious. I definitely think the newer bottom metal is a firm upgrade.

Very nice work B! What paint do you use?

Great looking rifle. Count me as another in the model 70 camp (especially pre 64s).

What's your load BSA?

I actually contemplated selling this to you last year when you were looking for one, but I hadn't had it that long. It's kind of grown on me now.. I'm suspecting you found one, the reason for your question. Here is the best load I've found so far with it. However, I have not even tried a partition in it, since it likes these sleek Hornady pills so well:


162 gr. Hornady ELD-X
65.5 gr. RL22
CCI 250
FC brass
3.290" OAL (.020" off lands)

Avg. Velocity 2,969

Disclaimer.: This is close to book max, so it may or may not be safe in your rifle..

I hope to try some partitions in it eventually. Maybe 140, 150 and 160's... I actually bought a bunch of 150's to try in my 7mm08, so those may be the first partitions I try...

Thanks for the compliments guys. These old classics are great for me, because I like to tinker with my rifles. As most of you here know already..

Good question Rodger. I use 3 different types of Rust-Oleum on my stock when going with this brown color. It damn near duplicated mcmillan's brown, like what I had on my 270 fwt...

Of course, the first thing I do is take the hardware off the stock, grip cap, recoil pad, sling swivels, then I sand out the lines from the molding process. Then I sand the stock (sans the checkering) with 220 grit. Prep is important to get the paint to stick really well.

First is a light coat of clear plastic's primer. Then I do these steps:
1. I start off with the multicolor textured paint (autumn brown)
a. I spray on light coats until I have enough coverage and texture
2. Next is "dark brown" satin over the texture.
3. Then to knock down some of the glare I use a really light coat of non reflective "earth brown" camouflage paint.

This stuff sticks like glue on the tupperware. I've tried Krylon like others love, but just haven't had the greatest luck with it like I have Rust-Oleum.

Of course the best test for durability (for me) is when I take my rifles out in the elk woods. My 338 is still looking like new, even after a few years of elk hunting:

nice!!!!!!!!!!!

Looks good BSA. I’ve got a Laminated 70 Sportet in 7 WSM and it’s a ripper as well.

Nice work.

Never did find one, although I did find a nice 5 digit 7mm Rem Mag about a month ago.

I do have a small pile of 7mm WSM brass saved up for the right rifle.

Oh man, I figured you would have found a nice one by now.

Almost stopped reading at "Tikka."

J/K. I am not surprised you'd keep the Model 70, that's what I'd do. In fact, I'd never buy a Tikka (maybe I should not say "never") because I do not like the feel of them. I do not doubt they are very accurate right out of the box, but accuracy is not the only attribute worth considering in a hunting rifle. Even if the Tikka is 0.5 MOA and the Model 70 is 1 MOA, I still choose the Model 70 for its ergonomics, the 3-position safety, the looks and balance, and just the way it feels. For the kind of hunting I do, the difference in accuracy would be meaningless. I know some see it differently, but this is how I see it. To each his own!

Excellent post. I'm glad you said that because that's how I felt, after comparing them side by side. Like I said, the Tikka is a great rifle, but it's not a model 70.

Good job, and I agree with the choice cut too buddy, I'll take M-70 moa dead animals all day any day.

I have T3X's in 22-250, 6.5 CM, 270 Win (T3X Superlite) and a 7-08 Compact. They are all amazing shooters and I do like how the bolts lock down and the they carry pretty decent as well, but laying the 270 Win next to my P64 Fwt 270 really makes me wonder why I have the Tikka.. I do like them and recommend the rifles since they shoot easily, work well and are great rifles.. They are fun to play with though.

Nice rifle, BSA! It looks great and it sounds like it shoots great too. I've got a 7WSM in a MRC/CZ Model 3. I'll have to try out your load recipe one of these days.

I think I get it Scotty.

If I saw a rifle as nothing but a tool---and I mean nothing, then I might well choose the Tikka. No doubt some see it exactly this way, too. And then there are those who see rifles as a bit more than tools. I personally fall into that group.

Sure is a good looking rifle.

Thanks buddy. I was just thinking I need to take it out deer hunting. The other thread about the classics, made me think about it.

Another very nice Model 70. How did you polish the raceways if you don't mind me asking?

I’m wondering the same thing...

I appreciate some things about the Tikka but I just don't like how they carry or point, at all. Ive tried it and just can't do it.

Thanks for the paint recipe, I'm going to try that. I think the contrast of the red pad with the brown is really a cool touch.

Just like I do my rough ruger 77's just a shaped long dowel with fine grit sandpaper on the end of it. Make sure to remove the ejector and bolt stop. I should dig out some pics of before and after. There are more tooling Mark's on these 7 digits, but those can be smoothed out. I also have some pics of the glass bedding, but most of you here have seen how I glass bed a rifle to make them shoot well.

I think you'll like the texture. It's just about right for grip and carrying, and still comfortable while shooting

Nice work BSA, just had a machine shop bud cut the threads on a classic stainless boss M-70 in 338 WM, fired 4 into less than an inch and a half at 200 yards this morning with no wind, 250 A-Frames leaving at 2743 from only 22"s of barrel is plenty good enough for me.

Sounds great.

I'm liking this rifle BSA, it should only tighten up more with a good 11 degree recess from my 'smith.