I was in a local pawn shop today, just looking around to see what they had. There was a Model 12, 12 gauge, and the serial number shows it was made in 1919. Gun is in what I'd call fair condition, wood and metal original. I'm curious as to what the value would be. They had a $480 tag on it, and that's too high IMO. Not really interested in it, other than the fact that my dad had one just like it when I was a kid.

For a basic field model in fair condition? With original metal(some rust pits)and wood.......
Around here, maybe 300-350......
I have a 1918+- that I'd be happy/thrilled to get $350.00 for! And, it's a pretty nice old Model 12.

its about 100.00 too high.

Thanks guys. The condition was only what I'd call fair, nothing special, just an old Model 12. I knew they were too high, as most of those pawn shops in that area are. I would not have paid over $300, as I am looking only for a bargain. But, just about any 100 year old Winchester is pretty cool.

Market bottom has fallen out here. I love the Winchester Mod 12 16 Ga's. Just picked one up in about 95% condition 28" Mod barrel for $300.00.

The bottom of most of the old pump guns has fallen out. The M12 seemed hit the hardest as their prices had climbed up too high.
But the smaller gauge ones , especially solid rib guns, still move. At least when I find them

Just purchased a 50's M12 in 20 gauge recently in my area for $450. Original, 28" full, 90+%. Somebody had taken the original buttplate off and added a slip-on pad. It was an easy $15 fix. I was pleased.

I’ve wanted a really nice 16 and 20 for quite some time, so the market taking a dive is music to my ears. Hopefully the younger shooters just keep chasing the latest camo autoloaders.

Last couple of years I was seeing a fair amount of "shooter" grade Winchester Model 12s for sale. Mostly 12 gauge and the prices werent bad, they didnt fly out the door, but they were eventually sold. Havent seen any lately though

the universal rule of thumb on 12's is.....if it was expensive then, its expensive now. otherwise all 12's reset back to normal market.

Need a model 12 factory trap gun to go with them?

Ran across two old M 12’s last week.

First was 16ga. Well used with a poorly repaired mag tube. A bit of file work and polishing would of cleaned up the excess silver solder. Still, at $360, it’d be a decent old pump if it functioned correctly.

Second was a solid rib 20ga. Better shape and right about $500.

Couple neat old shotguns.

I might have struggled to leave the 20 gauge behind!

as long as the rib wasn't separating from the bbl..............which was common on those ribs.

I have owned and used dozens of solid rib M 12's , including a very well worn 16 ga one with a low four digit serial number that I still use today.
One of the M12's strong suits for me always was the strength of their barrels. You see very few with dented barrels.

Do you know any details of the separated ones you have seen ?

I was curious about that myself. The only time I've seen it happen was on guns that were reblued. The heat melted the solder.

So has the model 97 shotguns also seen a decline in appeal and value? Just curious and I apologize for piggybacking.

Cowboy Action Shooting helped the 97 market.

DF

Hot blue will "eat" certain solders, it won't melt it.

OK, I'll accept that. But results are the same. The rib comes loose. That's the reason Winchester rust blued the barrels with ribs.

So did Ithaca on their 37R for the same reason. I have a first year 20 ga.

DF

WW never immersion blued SR M-12 and 42 barrels. Even so, over decades the solder will start to loosen visibly in places. Rarely they will separate, but I've never seen an original condition SR come detached. Lucky, I guess.

Reblued guns are, of course, another matter. Even then, the M-12s seem to retain their ribs alot better than immersion blued M-21s. This is an easy enough pitfall to avoid, whether as a potential buyer or as an owner looking to restore.

One reason M-12 SRs tend to withstand abuse better than M-21 ribs is the method used to lay the rib. Barrels were set up in a fixture, then two grooves were cut into the barrel from the muzzle to where the threads start for the chamber ring, (chamber end). The ribs had a small radius on the bottom along with a rail on each side that fit into the aforementioned grooves. Next matting, then straightening, then brazing, then cold blue.

When SR guns were after-market converted to VRs, the solid ribs were removed of course. You will see the grooves, unless metal prep removes them.

the goal of my post was to alert the OP to check the rib if he chose to buy it, regardless of cause.

Speaking of old M12's, I have a 1914 12 ga. Model 12. Not sure if it is 2 1/2" or 2 3/4". I'm not sure how to check. I won't be firing the old girl anyway. I recently bought a 1954 Model 12 for $150. My gunner buddy cleaned it up. That's the one I'd fire, if I got the urge.

I’ve got a genuine 1937 M12 in 28 gauge that is in 95+%. It’s super sweet. I can’t find another to compare it to so I don’t know it’s value, But I had a guy at the range beg me to sell it to him. He said he had every M12 model made but had never seen a unaltered field grade 28 gauge.

Alaskajim, I sent you a PM.

I saw a Model 12 in 20 gauge for $299 yesterday, shooter grade of course, seller said they have had it for awhile.

Me, too. Re-blued. Same price

I have 20 gauge that is really very nice, and has spent far more time in the safe than in the field. I would like to find it a home, as I don't believe in keeping guns that I no longer use and that someone else could enjoy. It was manufactured in 48 with great blueing and small small scratches on the butt, I believe from breaking ice. I will not however give it away.