My regional fun shop notified me they had a surprise delivery from Ruger yesterday so I headed there this morning and came back poorer. Haven't bought a brand new gun in quite some time, but couldn't resist this one.





LINK to the dealer if anyone else is interested, they still have a couple more.

Thats really cool

Very nice rifle!!

Gratz

Spiffy!

the gas pedal is on the correct side, too...

450 works in Iowa......Thanks.

These have been in the works for a couple years, but with all the crap going on the past couple years, the dealer was surprised he got any at all. They probably won't last long, a couple sold while I was doing the paperwork.

What's the story behind those? I looked on Ruger's website under left handed rifles and dealer exclusives but didn't see this which isn't that unusual but I'm curious who had it made up.

Randy's Hunting Center in Mi. None of his exclusives are cataloged. Doubtful some of the Ruger customer service reps even know about them even.
He did 2 versions of the Americans in LH 450 BM as well.

Geeze, that's a neat little gun! Ruger sure does take good care of us south paws. I'm left handed, right eyed dominant so shoot either left handed or right handed bolt guns no problem.

I doubt Ruger would've made these had it not been for Randys putting up the capital, same as he did for the left hand American 450s (which are sold out now). This rifle checks a lot of boxes for me........stainless/walnut, 20" barrel, classic crf action with no plastic parts, 3 position safety, no safety blade trigger, flush hinged floorplate, heck I even like the Ruger Phoenix engraved into it. The RAR 450 is okay (I have a 16" lh model) but this one's much mo' better in my eyes. One thing that would be icing on the cake for me would be a set of sights that come on the Alaskan rifle. I'll have to measure the barrels and see if it could be retrofitted.

Tmitch, I'd imagine the barrel profile will be darn near Ruger guide gun profile. Call up Ruger for a set of guide gun sights. Theyll pull through for yah.

I had a plastic stock on my 338 RCM. Not my style. The $247 they sent me a Ruger hunter stainless stock. Only mag box needed opened up. Drop in fit.

Stainless Ruger carbine with walnut and open sights is a nice thing....

Just measured the diameter at the muzzle (.672") and it matches both my .375 Alaskan and my ss No1 .45-70 so the front base band should slip right on. The barrel would need to be d&t for the rear sight base though. Will have to get a price from Ruger and see if I can justify it.

Interesting rifle, what are they selling for?

$1100

I want to see more of those Rugers.

That's bad ass.

Left handed or not.

That last pic just reminds you of Shrapnels bull......with a lever action....as well as a few other weapons.

Yesterday made the journey to Randy's and picked up a Ruger 77 in stainless steel. He also had a Ruger 77 blued steel. Next stop is Mag-na-Port to get it threaded.
Was surprised the amount of ammo and firearms in the store.

You must have gotten one of the last ones, last I heard they only had 3 left. Was the blue 77 in .450? Haven't decided whether to get mine threaded or not. Ordered a Silencerco Hybrid awhile ago but they must be backlogged pretty bad and I'm getting impatient

Didn't ask how many stainless steel were left, not many when I called on May 28. Randy brought out a blued model for me to look at, it did look great. I'am going to Mag-na-Port to check on threading the barrel there just a couple miles away, and do great work and complete in a couple days. I trust Kenny at Mag-na-port, Larry and I were friends and I have known the family for close to 50 years. There might be a problem with adding threads to the barrel. Muzzle is .672" to small for 11/16"-24, I think. If the barrel is cut to 16.5" and I prefer short barrels it will be .721", still think its border line to have done. I have a Ruger American with a 16.5' factory barrel that is .825" shoulder to seat on. Ruger put a bell muzzle on to add metal for a suppresser. Also checked a factory AR-15 450 Bushmaster that is .742". I just don't understand why all manufactures just don't add treads to all barrels for suppressors at the factory. Especially Randy's one off guns going to Michigan. It would cost a few dollars if done when the gun is manufactured. Even if the buyer as only putting a muzzle brake on, extra cash flow would be added.

It all depends what you did getting your suppresser. If you did a "Trust" its going to take over a year. File electronically "individual" a couple months.

When I was there picking up my lh 77 there was a customer picking up a rh stainless 77 in 450 (Randy said they got "a couple" with the lh shipment) and it had the threaded/belled muzzle.
I also have one of the threaded 16.5" Americans which started me down the path to get a suppressor. With the addition of my new (unthreaded) 77 .450 I'm rethinking the suppressed .450 idea but I've read that you can use 5/8"-32 for the .450BM. Might work better on the thinner/unbelled 77 barrel?

from Silencer Central website:

Common Pitch Range
.17 to below .243 – 1/2×28
.243 to .300 Win Mag – 5/8×24

Common Platforms
.223/5.56 (AR15) – 1/2×28
.30 Cal (AR10 etc.) – 5/8/24
300 BLK – 5/8×24
AK – M 14×1 LH
*350 Legend – 1/2×28
**450 Bushmaster – 5/8×32
458 SOCOM – 5/8×24

My thought when I talk to Kenny (Mag-na-Port) today is add a machined bell end on the Ruger 77, like Ruger installs on the Ruger American 16.5" barrel. Wouldn't be very difficult turn the end of the barrel the length of the bell plus threads so there is no taper on the barrel make a bell that will when heated slides on the barrel then let cool. Once in place finish machining it would be difficult to see the seam.
I had a machine shop been retired for 15 years. Wouldn't be difficult to do. Should have kept one lathe just to play with.
Myself 5/8" just is not enough even 11/16" is a better minimum for .451". Remember the shoulder to seat the suppressor is what is needed to be larger. If you were just adding a muzzle brake, it wouldn't matter much. Only adding about 1.5" for a brake wouldn't matter much, a suppressor is closer to 7" and $1000 plus a stamp, a lot to loose.

I'd be interested in what you come up with

Still would have to be welded or soldered, or you might create a suppressor launcher.

Impossible to happen ! Actually if you read it properly there would be a shoulder on the barrel for the added piece, because a barrel is tapered. Kind of hard and costly to put a taper on the inside of the round stock needed for the barrel. Also when heated the added piece would expand making it larger, slide on a cooler barrel and cool it could never ever come off, then screw on the suppressor or cap. It's never going to come off, barrel and added piece would heat up from shooting at the same rate and cool.

Secondly how in the hell would a threaded suppressor or muzzle brake launch off a rifle, that has a cap, brake or suppressor mounted. There is a shoulder for the added piece on the barrel as a stop. I would have no problem shooting with the added piece that had .001" of slop to get on and not be soldered.

The shoulder is a rear stop. The suppressor heats substantially more and faster than the barrel.
But, it would only be a $1000 mistake, so roll with it

I think there are few things you can buy that are worth more then folding money in hand. Guns are one of them. Think about how often you break off $50 for gas, $40 for groceries, $20 for beer. Long after you've burned the gas, ate the food and swilled the libations, you'll be playing with that rifle. You returned from your local toy emporium richer not poorer!

As I understand what coyotewacker is proposing, the actual threads are cut into the barrel and a "spacer" is heat shrunk to a straight turned section of the barrel behind the threads and provides a larger diameter shoulder for the suppressor to contact. No suppressor launchin unless the end of the barrel breaks.

OGB, I like your reasoning!

Can't cause the barrel is too small to thread. So proposing turning the end few inches of the barrel down even smaller, and straight, sliding a bushing sleeve over to increase the barrel diameter. The threading would be on the new sleeve. No mechanical connection between the sleeve and the barrel. That is what raised a red flag.
In theory it should work.

If you read his post he is cutting the barrel back to 16.5" where the barrel diameter is .721", which is plenty for 11/16"-24 thread (.687"), just not alot of extra for a good shoulder.