Family has the need for a new shed, and while I was originally suggesting a pole barn the timing and current costs are out. Stick built kits are as expensive and not as secure as a Conex, so that's what I'm looking into acquiring. Probably only need a 20' one, but I'm seeing 40's for only $600 more than the 20' we may go that way. I've used Conexs for storage and mini offices on jobsites for many years, so I think I know how to set it up to get good use out of it, but I thought I'd ask ya'll if you have any other ideas or comments about this. One thing I'd like to do is have it set on a bed of aggregate to prevent sinking into the dirt, mud/water puddling around the doors, etc. I figure a foot wider and longer than the conex footprint to end up with 6" all around it, but how deep should I make this? 3-4" should be fine I think, but maybe 6" would be better. Thanks for your educated opinions!
Somehow I would think one would want to set it up on "piers" even they were only concrete block with paving stone top and bottom (snakes gotta have a place to live too after all).
Depending on its location security may be a wash, dopers are getting better equipped to open access to things they want.
They certainly seem to be the fastest, easiest and maybe even the cheapest route to a fine weatherproof structure.
Four to six inches would be my choice, level it well and hope the guy who drops it doesn't screw up your stone work.
By a convex shed, are you talking about a Quonset type building?
I think he's talking about one of those metal shipping containers Richard.
Thank you Scott, I looked it up.
What I saw was a hoop over two containers.
[Take 2 if the price is right.
Set them xx feet apart. Them cover. Have a shed with closed storage on each side.
You can set on rail road cross ties, buy new ones not used. If they sell them the driver should be able to put it right where you want it.
Get one w doors on each end.
Conex storage sheds are pretty common around where I live. People buy two of them and add a roof between them for more covered storage.
Works well.
Gravel pad or 6x6's under them works well depending on factors like how deep the snow gets in front of the door.
You can set on rail road cross ties, buy new ones not used. If they sell them the driver should be able to put it right where you want it.
This is work well for me. Level the ground with my tractor and check the floor after the truck are dropped it on today railroad ties and I had a perfect bubble. It's been on that site for about two years and hasn't shifted a bit.
I think they are the way to go but read up on condensation issues these things can have in certain climates. Where I am there don't seem to be any problems but over in Minnesota some users are complaining of rust on items store inside. There are filters you can install but I don't know enough about them to say anything useful.
https://www.miniwarehousing.com/how-do-you-stop-condensation-in-a-shipping-container/
We have two, 20' conex on the property. We had the driver set them on 4x4s to distribute the weight and keep them off the dirt.
I cut an 8" hole towards the top of one door on each conex and mounted a solar powered fan inside, roof vent outside for rain, solar panel flat on the roof.
They stay dry and some rolled on Henry"s white roof seal helps drop the temperature inside.
Those are slick. I’m sure the shipping to here would be prohibitive. Most people here frame the middle roof.
What does the 20 foot Conex with doors on both ends cost.......???