I need to replace the 6" thimble into the chimney. To date, I have slid the stove pipe through the thimble to the chimney, cause the thimble had a crack.

I think code says a bare pipe has to have 18" clearance from any combustible. With running the pipe through the clay thimble, does that isolate it from that requirement? I had intended to put in a new thimble from chimney to finished wall inside, and do the same with the stove pipe. Does that make code?

what requirements does your house insurance require?

This is a good one to spend money on a pro installation - paying for the knowledge to have it done correctly will be worth it in the long run. As bad as any of us like to ask for help.

I have a metalbestos insulated thimble with 2" air gap on my chimney but that is through a wall not up an existing chimney.
That was what the manufacture and Stove store both recommended.

Good luck with your project

At our cabin we have black pipe, to the ceiling, then double wall insulated Selkirk pipe.

The chimney.

Ooooops... clicked on here thinking of a diff stove pipe...

😂🤣

Wayne,
Some good advice on checking with the Insurance Co. as I think they would advise using a qualified Installer, and might even give you a qualified Contractor's name.
Here's some issues; The Insurance Co. will Legally cover their Butts, so to Speak, and for good reason, Think about it, if there's a fire, God Forbid, the Fire Inspectors
will have to determine cause of Fire. If the Insurance Co. can get out of paying a Dime, for anything, they will, trust me. The Days of the "Good old Boys are long gone".
Ten different people, and ten different answers, on how to correct this, or Fix it. Your old method seemed to work fine for a long time it seems. Even though the thimble finally cracked, probably from heat/cold flex, over time and is worn out, so to speak.
The Hottest point, is above the Wood burner, at the ceiling, naturally, as we all know heat rises. Like you said Code requires an 18 inch clearance around the Heat carrying stove pipe,(flue).
In most cases this can be accomplished on a direct exiting flue pipe through the roof with, what is called, a Support Box. Which allows cooler vent able air around the exiting hot stove pipe.
I'm a huge fan of the double and triple wall flue pipe's to keep the exterior of the outside flue pipe cool.
Remember, as you burn, longer and longer, over the years, the combustible material, around the pipe and at the ceiling gets dried out and the heat can cause the existing material to combust,
more readily.
IMO. I play it safe and take all precautions to prevent any kind of mishaps, especially fires!

If your gonna tackle the project your self, you can Google; "Typical construction diagram for flue pipe through ceiling from wood burning stove", and it should help clarify a lot of questions that you might have.

Good Luck!

HS58

I found out today I can access the NFPA codes on line. National Fire Protection Association codes are the basis for all aspects of fire protection for those that might not be familiar with it.

NFPA 211 Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents, and Solid Fuel-Burning Appliances, has everything you might need to know. In my case, a bare steel pipe (they call it a connector) would require 18" of clearance to any combustible, but there are several methods of reducing that dimension shown. I now know what to do.

Do it right Wayne, it'll be fine.

We keep sticks to smother a chimney fire handy.

A ceiling is a combustible surface.A Metalbestos type insulated pipe must extend 18" below ceiling or 18"from a combustible wall surface ,while maintaining the 2" clearance.
Those codes are what you need.Be safe.

There are several ways to skin this cat. The manufactured chimney pipes are good for tight clearances, but they are expensive. I am going to simply remove a section of the framed wall behind the stove and build a brick "wall" that extends into the room a couple inches, has an air space between it and the existing block wall, and it will be wide enough where it extends at least 9" from the pipe. Floor to ceiling, will provide the clearance from any combustible. This is clearly described in the NFPA 211 specs.