Looking at a new tractor to scrape manure, push snow,etc. 24 HP

My question:

Kubota (2601) or Johnny Deere?
JD is a local dealer. kubota dealer would be 150 miles. Outside contender New Holland, also 150 miles away.


Thanks fellas.

Service, and parts are a lot bender. The best deal will come along, right after you buy yours.

I wonder given our general lack of agriculture in the state (hydroponics don't count) how experienced and capable any tractor shop is at servicing and repairing tractors vs. just selling parts.

I'd lean towards Kubota in that size, but that's based on what I've heard. I only have limited experience with the Kubota in that size and one of these days if I can find a reasonably clean older one when I have some spare coins I'd like to get one, though I'm thinking 30hp. Bigger deere's seem to be rock solid.

Paul- $17.7K difference between the 24 HP and 32 HP JDs.

Our arena has the 24 HP that I have experience with and 95% certain it is all the tractor I see I need.

Wabi- That's true for a lot of things, eh?

Bender, are you thinking new, as in unused?

I wouldn't be buying a new 30 horse, you can pick up an older used one for ~$20k If I got a tractor it would be with an eye towards eventually building a cabin and the ~20 horse are just a bit small for foundation work.

I understand economy of scale, but the new price for small tractors just leaves me slack jawed.

yes

Wow, Bender, I did not know they had Powerball in Ak. Good luck with the new tractor. $$$

Something to consider in your total cost is financing. I have had the good fortune to buy several JD's on a 0% five year note. The savings in interest expense offsets the up front cost. JD's financing programs vary with the market and those offers may or may not be available in your neck of the woods...

No such thing as 0% financing. It sounds good, but what it really means is you could get it for ~5% less if you paid cash.

or take the 0% financing, invest your 30k for the 5 years and make way more than the $1500 they"overcharged" you.

Kubota and JD are good. (Japan)
New Holland, Kioti, Montana, LS, McCormick, Branson etc. etc. etc. are all from the LS factory in Korea. Good units too. All 'cept New Holland should be WAY Cheaper than orange or green, but won't hold their value as well. Example. My buddy ordered a 50 hp with cab New Holland, but the dealer missed the delivery promise.....by months. We started checking around and found a blue LS brand tractor for $15,000 less. (Not a miss print, $15,000)
Same exact tractor from the same factory......I Told him to buy some New Holland decals, if he had to have NH.
He can order parts for it from New Holland in fact.
i have a 47hp 4x4 MF I bought used (69 hrs. .) It's aJapan (iseki) tractor and is good too, but it will not hold its value like green.....
But I don't plan to sell it anytime soon.
Good Luck.

Fewer dealers here and the only one that is not a 3 hour minimum drive. New holland is farther as of now.

I think local parts and service has value. As of this afternoon, green even has best price.

A few years back I did the 0%. I was ready to buy so I asked what the price was if I wanted to pay cash...no difference so I did the finance. That dealer has gotten my business on several things.

We have an LS dealer about a mile away, with a very good selection. The more I see of them, the more impressed I am.

There is something to the old, "Quality is remembered after price is forgotten".

JD is the only farm equipment company that hasn't changed.......or gone away. It's still John Deere.
They don't have to have the best, the latest or the most technology........as long as it's Green.

They are still here, but JD has changed.

They make JD's all over the world. A lot of JD's are made in countries and factories that make other tractors as well. It's the green that sells though... And at a much higher price.

Bought this Kioti CK35 in 2010.......new & delivered for $17K sumthing...came with...

loader.......box scraper......rake..........have since added a......

60" tiller......12" PHD........60" brush hog.........35 HP/3 cylinder diesel.......

machine now has 330 trouble free hours........4x4.......std gear tranny.........

I'd buy another in a minute....good solid machine.......

drove past my game camera earlier this year...........

Mike,
FWIW,

A friend of mine, who lived (just moved Outside due to wife's job) off of the Palmer-Wasilla Hwy, was born with J-D green & yellow skin. He grew up in corn country and only JD would do. About five years ago he bought a JD the same size you are contemplating and used it year 'round on their property up there.

When I talked with him a few months ago, he had sold his JD and said that he is switching to Kubota for cost reasons. I can't say enough good things about my Kubota L5030. The only repairs I have had were to the front grill and headlights when a wedged blow-down snapped back when I was clearing a trail after a big storm. One battery, fluid & filter changes are all it has needed in 12 years.

Ed

Ed
What were the cost reasons?

He said that regular service items like filters and other parts were higher cost than the comparable Kubota. He said that he had a number of issues including 3 point parts breaking (two attachment leveling assemblies replaced, and a cracked lower arm). He pushed snow with a 3pt mounted blade and that's when the items broke.

He also mentioned having loader hydraulic hose issues with the crimps not being sufficient and leaking hydraulic fluid. He wasn't real impressed with fuel economy, either but I don't recall him saying how bad it was.

Of course, I had to tell him "I told you so".

Ed

If I was running big equipment, say 150HP and over tractors, and related equipment such as combines, I'd say that JD was the best. I say that because of the resale value, parts, and the JD service. There are a lot of big grain farms here, and JD is the most popular, followed by Case-IH. In the mid HP category, say 50 to a 100+, most brands are pretty much similar, and I prefer NH. The under 50HP is very competitive, and as someone else has posted, a lot are made by the same company, and sold under different brands. I'm probably lucky in that where I live there are many dealers around, and parts are easy to get, at least in what I run. I have bought a few parts via the internet, and so far have been pretty well pleased. But, if you have a breakdown today, and need a part ASAP, it's very nice to know that your local dealer either has that part in stock, or will have it the next day. That's not always possible with some brands.

As you said James, Parts, and service.

I have a friend who bought what I would call an "off brand" tractor, even though it's probably worldwide, one of the most popular. I'm not going to name the brand, as it's not my intention to start an argument on here. His dealer is small, and doesn't stock many parts, and when the man needs a part, he often has to wait days. I farmed full time for many years, and I know that you cannot be sitting still and waiting for parts when the sun is shining and there is work to be done. There is usually only a small window of opportunity to plant, spray, and harvest crops, so you need to be running when the time is right. I think that's why JD is so popular here, as the local JD dealers have always been the best in town. Although, that is changing somewhat here, as Case-IH has made great inroads in the big equipment market. It happened because the long time JD dealership changed hands, and some farmers didn't like the way JD went about doing it. Some switched to Case-IH exclusively, and some are now running both. Give a customer good service, and a good parts department, and you'll keep that customer.

Spot on James, a good brand in one location, may not be the brand to own at a different location.

JD is the only tractor dealer that is not a minimum 3 hour drive. They are also the lowest price by about 4K.

Bender, if I may be so bold as to ask, how much is cash on the barrel head price?

So Mike, when do you pick up the tractor?

Depends on the answer I get after I ask Wabi's question. If it's a cash price lower than finance vs 0 down and 0%.

IIRC 0% financing requires a certain percent down payment to secure the note. Maybe new offers are more generous.

JD, Kubota, and New Holland have 0down/0% OAC according to theirs sales dept.

That's the way I bought my 12' batwing shredder. 0 down 0 interest 48 months.

Why would I take money out of the bank when they offer that?

$3.00 corn must have the machinery companies hurting some for sales.

I mentioned earlier that I did the 0/0 with JD a few years back. Kubota had the same 0/0 at the time and I was open to either one. Kubota was around $2000 cheaper to pay cash, JD had no difference cash or credit.

I was trying to buy a pickup from a dealer once, and was negotiating a price. I was going to write them a check for it, but they offered it to me about a thousand dollars less if I financed it through them. I asked why, and they said they got a kickback from the finance company. Anyway, I didn't fall for it, as it was cheaper for me in the long haul to just pay for it up front. But, point is, you usually end up paying for what at first might seem like a good deal.

At 0% it was a no brainer for me. There is no downside (unless you miss payments). I did ask the salesman about it and he said JD was pushing the idea of financing to maintain a steady income rather than seasonal. It is financed through JD, not an outside finance company.

heres where it's at:


Kubota 2601 - 21,150
NH Boomer 24 - 23,000
JD 1023E - 17,000

All have bumper to bumper 2 year/6 year on drive train
All have 0 down/0% for 5 year, OAC

Choice is clear to me unless there is something I'm missing.

JD 1023 Kubota B2601
Weight 1345# 1632#
Engine disp 900cc 1123cc
Engine HP 23.5 25.5
PTO HP 15.3 19.5
Lift capacity 1433# 1808#

The Deere is listed as a subcompact tractor, the Kubota as a compact tractor. Whether or not the added capabilities are worth $4000+ and an all day trip to Anchorage to get parts comes down to how you'll use it. My friends older Kuboat (B2320 as I recall) looks to be closer to the size of the deere and for what it was, pretty darn capable.

Don't forget to factor in the cost of implements if you're planning to buy some additional ones down the road.

My son and I bought a sub-compact JD quite a few years ago. It is a 2210, loader and mower deck. We've used it for a lot of things......mowing, moving dirt and gravel, pulling a 4 foot tiller, digging postholes, moving snow, and other types of yard work. It's fine for what it's designed for, but there is a limit to what we do with it. That's why I have bigger tractors. These sub-compacts, Kubota, JD, NH, and others are great little machines.....as long as you keep in mind that they have their limitations.

A bit off topic, but, the reunion float I rode was pulled by the classmate's 1962 1010 Deere diesel.

Yeah, you're not comparing a real apples to apples there. Those two exact machines, the K will outwork the JD every time.

But buy local and green, and you'll never regret it. Ask for a price on the next size up JD.

I'm rethinking the needed size. Thanks to 458lott. I think the 1-series would result in buyers regret.

Size and capability explain the price difference.

Friend has a JD4005 I'm going to try out. 40 hp I believe.

Just as with boats and airplanes, as soon as you get your new one home, you'll start dreaming of a bigger one. Never fails.

Ed

Trying to avoid that "dream", Ed!

Buy once, cry once seems to apply.

I have a B2601. Bought it in Oct '15. Has about 170 hrs now. It has quick change fitting on the front. I have a bucket, forks, back blade, brush hog and a 63" front snow blower. I bet I put 50 hrs on the blower last winter. So far I could not be more pleased with this tractor. The blower was a life saver and it just worked without an issue. The tractor has been faultless. Knowing what I know now I might have bought a B2650. Not much different but a little heavier with a tad more lifting capacity, but I'm just fine with the 2601. There are many other fine brands available, Kubota is very common here and was the first dealer I can drive to, big parts/dealer/implements network, great resale and reputation. I added a set of Pats quick change hooks for the 3 pt hitch and like them very much.

Good point on the quick switch bracket on the loader. You don't realize how much, and often you will use it.

I currently use a JD 4105 for my horse/pasture chores. What ever brand tractor you decide is best for you make sure the tractor is fitted with an engine block heater.

Looked at Kubotas today. The 2601 and 2650 have moved to the top of the list. The JD1023 after another look, is not the machine I need.

I think that's a wise move in this case.

If I'm in town when you're swinging through, I'll buy you a beer.

Get the 2650. After all, you said it; "buy once, cry once."

Ed

Looks like it would be worth making a drive down South to pick up a new 2016 that a dealer is trying to move.

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/9896979/2016-kubota-b2650hsd

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/10663455/2016-kubota-b2650hsd

Dammit Paul. You're killin me here.

But Illinois fer gawd sake! I might jump if that was WA.

Trying to save a brother a buck or thousand.

I know you have google

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/10063197/2014-kubota-b2650hsdc

Just called on this one. Will get me a quote with shipping tomorrow. They sound like good folks on the phone.

I just bought a new Kubota M6-131 from these folks. They would be closer than Illinois by a bit. Check them out at http://www.marshallservicecompany.com/Default.aspx Phone number is 660-886-3011. Ask for Tom Self or Tom Butner. Mine will be here in the morning. I'll pay for yours if you'll pay for mine.

Hope you can knock it down a bit lower or get some attachments thrown in. That'll be a sweet rig with the enclosed cab.

Look again at the one I quoted.
Kub 2650 w loader
Shredder
Box blade w scarifiers
All on a tandem trailer

For about the price of tractor w loader in Anch

It's that one in Illinois. It might ship for just a bit more than my fuel for a RT.

By the way JD tractors for the Pacific rim are made in the same plant

That one sure looks like the best deal to me. Too bad it's not next door to you there.. May still be worth it though.

I like that deal. Make sure it has QA on the front. Unless you have a need for the shredder, I suggest you see if they will trade the shredder for a back blade and a set of forks. You will use the forks more than the bucket. The back blade is for snow.

Right now it has a pinned bucket. I'm not seeing a big need for forks? I can get forks for the bucket if needed.

I see a use for the shredder (when did it stop being called a brush hog?). Back blade would be helpful. I see the bucket for 90%+ of my use.

I used shredder to avoid any confusion. It is brush hog to me also. Conversion kits for the quick attach system are available. Orangetractortalks.com is a kubota site with a lot of information. With the trailer I like the deal you are considering.

Thanks, Pete.

I can get it with a pin bucket or QD. I don't see changing it often enough to worry about an extra 15 minutes. Am I missing something?

Forks on the bucket lower lift cap., butright now I'm not sure what I'd use the forks on.

Get QD. You'll never regret having it.

The first time a pin sticks and you're in a hurry, you will regret it!

Taking the bucket off makes the tractor much nicer to run anytime you aren't going to use the bucket. Safer also.

Thanks for the financing offer Anson, but I'll pass!

GET THE QUICK TACH!!!

IMO, Get the QA. These little tractor are handy as a pocket on a shirt and there is no sane reason not to have the QA. With the many available attachments you will at some point add to your equipment list. The QA allows you to change implements in seconds. A switch between a blade and bucket is pop pop done. I also suggest getting a QA for the 3 pt in the back. I have Pat's brand which I like. Changing out implements without it is a pia. Also, I have a backblade which I leave on most of the time for a counter balance. Without it the tractor is touchy at full load at full height. I also recommend getting the rear tires filled. The dealer can do this. Adds weight and more importantly stability.

PS: once you start using this tractor you will wonder how and what you did without it. As I said before I use the fork way more than the bucket. Forks on the bucket make it a 'tweener. Kind of like a bucket and kind of like forks but really neither.

Keep in mind weight plays a big factor. Current trend is little tractors. I am glad I did not go that route. I wouldn't mind another bigger one for pushing trees over. I got a 40hp diesel, and I am really happy with the size. Used, could not afford new in that range. But so far I am glad, I went bigger and used. Obviously one big faulure can change that.

The smaller the tractor, the more the need for the quick attach on that loader. I have QA on all mine, and it's the only way to go. If you do any mowing with the sub compacts, you will see a huge difference with the bucket left on, and with it off. As far as pallet forks go, those are one of the handiest things you can have.

A guy could have a little one for mowing, and a big one for work. I get buy with riding mower, but at times wish I had something bigger for grass.

I used my small tractor here around headquarters today for mowing. With my small shredder... 12' batwing.

It made a pretty quick job of things, but the a/c inside the cab sure was nice on a 100* day!

I thought about a cab too, Barry.

...for plowing snow.

I know a heater and cab will have you run out of there! I got out on a frosty morning here and turned the heater on... For about 5 minutes!

It got pretty warn in there pretty quick!

Anyone have experience using a snow blower attachment with a gravel driveway. We get quite a bit of snow here and I get by with a 4 wheeler and a winch plow. I will be buying a smaller tractor, leaning toward JD with a front end loader, but am considering a snow blower. Not sure if the gravel driveway will be too hard on the blower however.

Sure would be nice to blow the snow where I want it, rather than trying to push it.

Here is what works for me. Through the summer especially in the fall i'm on the lookout for rock, sticks, boards etc that might get caught up in the blower. These get removed when I see them. Usually the first snow does not get removed but gets packed down and hopefully frozen. I also set the shoes on the blower lower early in the season. When the ground freezes, I raise the shoes accordingly. Also, I have extra shear bolts, they work but prevention is more better.

I bought the Kubota , 25 HP. So far,it has far surpassed my expectations and has done everything I wanted. The big thing about Kubota,if you get the quick detach loader assy, any universal skid steer attachment will fit. With John Deere, you are pretty much stuck with JD accessories. I did have the rear wheels set out to max width as it seemed unstable with the wheels sucked in close.Fixed that problem.Mine has the bucket and blade. I also bought 3 ft hay spears. That lifts an 800 lb ,3'x3'x 8 ' bale with no problem.Sure is easier than bucking small squares.

In all, it sure beats my old 1952 Ford 8N

I saved about $4k by going with Kubota,vs JD.I saved even more by traveling 60 miles to Pueblo,CO instead of buying from the local dealer south of Colorado Springs.

I bought a 60 blower in May, so I don't have experience with it yet,but my neighbor has 48 "one and another has 62 " one and both do gravel driveways.You have to be careful on how you set the height and shoes.I did try it on late April wet snow storm when the ground was mud.That didn't work out well.

Anyone have experience with filled rear tires and cold temperatures?

I have a question...

What is this "cold temperatures" you speak of?

The old stuff ( mag chloride) is fairly caustic on rims. Supposedly the new Rimguard, made out of beet pulp is not,but it is a sticky messy thing. I don't know the temp rating on it. The good thing is that weighs about 11# per gallon instead of 8 or so.I had mine filled with Windshield Wiper fluid.Not as caustic,easier to do and it's good to probably 10 below. Around here, Rimguard is about $350 to fill two rear tires of the small tractor. Windshield Wiper fluid ran me about $225. Nobody close is doing then mag. chloride

Extra rear weight sure helps when lifting heavier loads with a bucket,but real heavy loads ,you still need some kind of implement on the back to act as a counterbalance. I put my balde on and add 100 pounds of lead bricks.

I'm not sure how much extra traction it gives. It doesn't seem like much, I rely on chains in the winter. I suspect heavy bolt on wheel weights would add more.

A lot of hobby farmers around here have the industrial tires on their smaller tractor. I opted for ag tires with more aggressive tread

Fluid in rear tires helps a lot with traction, and balance if using a loader. In a tube type , with tube, most rust will occur at the stem area if you get a leak. Like many things it is a trade off.

fwiw...the tire dealer in town filled a garden tractor for me with something he claimed was like Rimguard, but didn't make a mess. He showed me a beet juice mess and was quite animated about it.

No cold weather issues and no rust, ironbender.

Driveway here, has quite a hill and once iced over my unfilled Massey will not climb it. Neighbors MM has both rears filled and he went right up it--same day. Sliding sideways is a good way to die, filled with chains would be wise...

Dealer I'm looking at buying a tractor from already as the tires filled. Don't know what they used.

Wondering if I should get them unfilled and get a sand bucket instead.

If it has fluid, I'd use it that way. Fixing flats is harder with fluid.

Find out what kind of fluid they use, especially if the dealer is in the lower 48. I had calcium chloride in my JD 3020 tires. After 15 years, the rims were starting to show signs of corrosion around the valve stems. I went with wheel weights on the new Kubota. No one around here services tires with anything other than calcium chloride. How about where your are? That might be the deciding factor. Here, it is $45 bucks more to fix a flat if the tire has CC in it.

You can just let the fluid out of the tire. It is a mess, but the calcium is harmless, you can feed it to cattle, don't do it unless you know what you are doing however.

True, but it will kill vegetation and the rim is still wet with it unless you break the tire down and replace the tube.

I'll find out Monday what is in the tires. I'm sure they can put reglar ones on too.

If it's Rimguard (best juice) I'll leave it I think. It's freeze point is -35*F.

Have to check with local tire shop see if they can handle that.

Fluid in a tire makes a world of difference. I live a half mile off the highway, and have a gravel road for my driveway. I keep it graded with a 7 foot box blade about every 6 weeks. For a short time, I had a Kubota 4210 4-WD, no fluid in the tires. My drive has a couple of inclines, and the tractor would spin out if there was too much gravel in the box, even in 4-WD, and full throttle. I traded for it a 45 HP New Holland, 4-WD, with fluid in the rears. I can grade the road, half throttle, as much gravel in the box as it can hold, and never spin. I've ran farm equipment for over 50 years, and those rear tires on a tractor of any size, must have some added weight if you want any traction at all. Mine has calcium chloride in them, but a local store is selling Rim Guard, and I'll take a look at it if I ever have to replace the fluid in one.

I'd love to be able to ballast my tires for more traction...

I just can't do so in my area. The sandy soil here is truly quicksand when it gets saturated by rain. That ballast or liquid in the tires sinks tractors to the frame here. Same goes for foam filled tractor tires. Just too heavy.

Around here, if you're going to pull any kind of a load with a tractor, or use a loader, you just about have to have fluid in the rears. I've seen rear wheel weights work pretty good, but putting fluid in is so much easier. Years ago, I bought a 686 IH that had one tire with fluid, and the other rear without. It was okay at light work, but if you put any kind of a load behind it, the tire with no fluid would just spin out. As far as the foam filed tires, I've never had any experience with them, although I knew a man here who got tired of flats on his riding mower, and had the tires foam filled. He got rid of it not long afterwards because of how rough it rode. He said an hour of mowing the yard was like riding a bulldozer all day.

It'd be a good idea here.

My concern is a shop that can handle a flat on a filled tire. Dealer told me their fill gets slushy at -30. That's good to go.

They are darn heavy that is for sure. I don't think most tire shops can refill them if a flat occurs. Around here there a couple of shops that come out to fill tires, either at your place or a tractor shop.

Although my Kubota has filled tires, on ice, it doesn't help. I still have to chain up. I have ag tires with the standards tractor cleats. Maybe industrial tires are different.
If you are looking at snow removal, buy a set of tractor chains when you buy the tractor, even if it has 4wd

If I go to load the bucket , and on soft dirt, the rears will spin if I try to push too far after the bucket is loaded.

Tires are filled with beet juice. Freeze pt= -35. No tubes.

Local tire shop can handle/uses CaCl2 in tubes.

The beet juice is the heaviest fluid you can put in. I think about 11pounds per gallon. Since it is in there,I would not replace with CACl2. since the Rimguard is not caustic

My thought too Vince.

Also, local tire shop is set to handle either fluid.

I think I'm GTG.

Mike, When do you pick up your new toy? Pictures are mandatory, you know!

Ed

We decided to pull the trigger on a Kubota B2650 package plus some additional implements.
Really appreciate all the input, advice, and helpful posts, guys!

I'll have pics after I have it later this month.

Gotta find a PB replacement.

Kiddin' here Mike, we need pictures of the pile of John Deere caps being burned.

You are going to be happy with that one.I have the 2501, standard trans.Same engine,same weight,all the same specs,but from what the dealer explained to me, the tuning /emissions is set up differently. Rated HP is only 25, net about 23hp So far,I have never run out of power. pushing snow,running brush hog and moving gravel/dirt.
I bought a 60 snow blower last April but have not had chance to work it.

Looking at a JD 3032e. Wonder if anyone has any experience with them?

I've run a 3038e for around 4 or 5 years and have had no problems. Mainly bushogging, spraying pasture and fence lines, moving dirt/cleanout, dragging trees, moving trailers, disking, spreading seed, pulling a small cultipacker, etc Love the hydrostat for tight places and hillsides. It is light, which has been handy bushogging around ponds and wet spots, but there is a trade off on traction. It's plain jane on extras, loader is fixed, and ROP is fixed (but will fit under a 7' door). Main things I'd change are a larger fuel tank and a decent spot for a tool box. Used within it's size/design requirements mine has been a solid no frills machine.

Just wanted to report back on the new tractor.

Have a tractor package here now. Package included the B2650 w/ FEL and QA bucket and forks; 4' shredder, box blade, all on a 7K 18' trailer..

Have gotten some use out of all implements so far. I may be fighting my wife to drive it though. She sure had fun.


Thanks for the advice and suggestions.
Thanks to 458lott for the post way up above about a tractor package. Mine is nearly identical. Found one a lot closer than Illinois!

I'd post pics, but PB is dead to me and don't yet have another third-party allowable account.

Glad you got that, and are happy with it!

Mike,

I have a hosting service and if you send my some pics will be happy to post them.

I have tractor envy

Thanks. I have a better one than the one I texted to you. Want it emailed?

Did you buy from that outfit in Illinois and if so, how did they ship it to you? I'm happy with my Kubota so far. I'd still make the same decision today.

A trailer is my next purchase. Is yours a tilt or ramp? What brand? With my back blade and forks the tractor is about 17'

Not from Illinois. Bought in WA. Shipping was going to push $7K! Fuel was less.

Pete-
Trailer is a "Tuff trailer" made in WA. It's 18' deck w ramps.

Took me a second to figure out how to get it off the text.

nice rig.... trailer looks like it puts a good load on the tongue, tho.

Kubotas are light.

Not really. Check out this comparison, weights are at the bottom.

http://www.kubota.com/assets/product/comps/B50/B2650_Comps.pdf

Not too bad Don. Just backed close enough and I lifted the tongue onto the ball!

Actually it did cause the truck to squat a bit. Need air bags.

Very nice!

Me Likee!

Thanks Paul.

Thanks Barry. It'll be a good machine around here.

Needs a canopy to keep you from getting sunburned in those long, hot summers.

Ed

I like that trailer too!

How much weight can that carry?

(I have two light duty trailers. and one overkill trailer. Nothing in between... My HD trailer you could pull that Ford and the tractor trailer on it and take off.. )

Trailer has a 7K GVW. IIRC the way it sits weight was figured about 5500 combined.
Trailer weight listed at 1600.

The burn from liquid sunshine!

Shouldn't be too tough to find a blue tarp to rig up

Yep.

I need one of those!

Yeah. I bet I can find one. Might be green/brown though.

I stained the 2x8s of the trailer deck Saturday in the sun. Just to keep them from weathering. Was that silly?

It's essentially a car hauler. Shirley there are lotsa places in Tx to get one.

Moved a couple round bales with the 3-point bale spear yesterday. noticed I now have 40 hours on the meter! WOOT!
lol...

Barry-
I noticed yesterday that the tongue is stamped "do not exceed 14,000 lbs. (no metric conversion stamped.

the trailer is more skookum than I thought.

As long as the axles will handle it!