Got a problem with my tractor. Won't start. Just a click. Had a mechanic look at it this summer and he thought there was a problem with the ground on the solenoid/starter.
He fiddled with it a bit and it worked fine for 6 months. But last week it decided to act up again.
So now I can start it jumping the solenoid but I have to have a battery charger attached and set to 200 amp setting.
Question for you mechanics, what exactly is the problem? If it were just the solenoid, I'd think I wouldn't have to have the charger attached while starting?
Not being any help at all, but just pointing out that the biggest problem with "solenoid" is the disconnect between the way it is spelled and the way that people pronounce it.
I have worked on a lot of cars over the years and can't say I ever replaced just the solenoid. It may have been a problem while changing the starter but just replaced the whole deal.
Now, I have worked on tractors also and know that parts can be real expensive and or hard to locate.
Having said all that when I turn the key and just get a click or clicks first thing I check is battery, making sure it is not weak. I'm confused about jumping direct to solenoid.
But assuming battery is ok, next would be the brushes in the starter. As they wear down, the "brush holders" which are made of metal, can short against the stator where the brushes make contact. Sometimes this will cause a bad spot in stator and unit will function fine until it sits on that one spot.
Hope its an easy fix for ya, good luck.
I have worked on a lot of cars over the years and can't say I ever replaced just the solenoid. It may have been a problem while changing the starter but just replaced the whole deal.
Now, I have worked on tractors also and know that parts can be real expensive and or hard to locate.
Having said all that when I turn the key and just get a click or clicks first thing I check is battery, making sure it is not weak. I'm confused about jumping direct to solenoid.
But assuming battery is ok, next would be the brushes in the starter. As they wear down, the "brush holders" which are made of metal, can short against the stator where the brushes make contact. Sometimes this will cause a bad spot in stator and unit will function fine until it sits on that one spot.
Hope its an easy fix for ya, good luck.
For clarification, I am running a test lead from the hot wire to the post on the solenoid. Standing beside the tractor and starting it by "jumping" the solenoid.
I am attaching a battery charger to add amperage. Even when I add the battery charger set to 200a, it will not start with a key.
as nick said above, i'd suspect the starter itself. they are easy to rebuild yourself if its just brushes. might want to smack it with a hammer while cranking to see if it free's up.
Do a voltage drop test on the ground cable..should be no more than .2 volts. The same for positive cable. Also, check battery capacitance. Do a complete voltage drop test across the solenoid...Maximum voltage drop across solenoid should be .5 volts.
..Also, do a voltage drop test on ignition switch....max. .2 volts...If this checks out,..pull starter.
I was having trouble similar with my Kubota. Checked battery cables, ground, key switch. Looked at the wiring diagram and saw the "safety" switch for the clutch. Bypassed it and have never had an issue since.
I'm still thinking about your problem.
After re-reading above.....bypassing the ignition switch and it works....I'd take a good look at switch.
Needing battery charger set at 200amps.....weak battery or brushes in starter worn out.
Just my thoughts....good luck!
I have a mechanic tentatively lined up to come and fix the problem.
Striker12, can you help a crappy excuse for a mechanic to explain how to test voltage drop?
You aren’t getting enough juice out of the battery.
check the battery terminals and make sure they are clean - if not then you battery is toast.
Once you engine turns over the alternator can provide the juice to keep it running... this is why you can drive somewhere after a jump and shut it off and if you battery is dead, you are stuck.
You aren’t getting enough juice out of the battery.
check the battery terminals and make sure they are clean - if not then you battery is toast.
Once you engine turns over the alternator can provide the juice to keep it running... this is why you can drive somewhere after a jump and shut it off and if you battery is dead, you are stuck.
That makes sense except why won't it turn over when hooked to charger with the key?
The only time I've had problems with solenoids is when the battery can't provide enough amperage to turn over the engine.
Charges don't have enough amperage to start an engine.
If it's 12 volt, put your car battery in and try it.
Solenoids absolutely go bad, frequently.
A good friend owns an auto electric shop specializing in starters and alternators. He sees a lot of the japaneese starters with
the integral solenoid (even the never break Toyota's) with the internal contacts beat out of them. Pull them apart, replace the contacts and they are
good. When this is a problem, you get a strong thump when you turn the key, but nothing more.
The windings that create the electro magnet can also fail. This will produce a clicking or no response. It acts just like a very weak or dead battery.
Whatever the fix is, please post and let us all know. I'm curious.
The only time I've had problems with solenoids is when the battery can't provide enough amperage to turn over the engine.
Charges don't have enough amperage to start an engine.
Battery charger has 200 amp setting. That's what I use when starting.
If mechanic hasn't started working on it, I'll try and check batteries tomorrow. Can't really pull them out easily. But I'll check Volts
Just me? Start replacing suspect parts until something does work.
solenoids do fail. I have had them do it on automobiles, lawn mowers, and ATV's. Usually jumping from one side of the solenoid to the other with a piece of heavy wire will tell you if that is the problem. miles
Sorry for the late response........Do you still want to know how to do a voltage drop?
I might ad that the negative battery cable could easily be making a bad connection at it's attachment on the block......Super clean connection and bolt threads...Reinstall using a small dab of copper anti-seize on bolt.......
PM me..... if you need more instructions....
If this ever got fixed, I'm wondering what problem was.