Just got a little Kubota 25.5hp (19.5 at PTO). Understand it's small, but it fits for what we need around our few acres. Most of our place is timbered. That means both underbrush and branches from felled trees as well as wind-blow.

Thinking a hammer flail would work.

Any brand's or models I should look at or stay away from?

Looking at some of them at Betsco and they are only a couple hours away in Creswell, Or.

As far as I know there are two different types of Flail mowers.

Light weight "hammers" for cutting grass "no brush" and heavy weight "hammers"for cutting grass and brush.

I would think you would need the heavy. The heavy will cut grass but not as clean as the light.

Thanks. Not looking for a clean cut. Mainly mulching.

You are gonna need much more horsepower.

You got that right

You're going to need more lots more HP to run a heavy hammer flail and more weight up front.

Got a small vineyard version with Y blades coming this week, weather permitting. Sales guy suggested trying them first and swapping out to hammers later if I don't like them.

https://tractortoolsdirect.com/tx52-flail-mower-by-del-morino-132/

I'll let everyone know.

I have a little Alamo AT60 with long shank Y-blades. It’s Dubbed a “finish” flail mower.

I spent many, many, many hours on a 50 HP Eicher orchard tractor mulching the pruned branches. Much, much slower than walking pace, even with the 50 hp tractor. Lord, that was a mind blowingly boring job......... 300 yard rows, 84 of them. More horsepower is right.

I was just Thinking about this. Hope it works out. I could use the same thing I think, but shipping would be stoopit high.

Got the mower today. Doesn't have hammers, as I mentioned. But this thing rocks. Beats the hell out of things, Tight turns though trees. Only bogged down a few times when I got on top of a log or something that was covered. Quick lift and then keep going. Don't know what I did with out it.

Run a nearly 30 yo JD 1070 with a Bush Hog (Maletti) 72" flail for general mowing on the property. Can't tell for sure from your flail's brochure but you'd be wise to keep an eye on the rear roller shaft where in goes into the bearing housing at each end. If you get grass wound up on the roller's shaft over time, it will destroy the bearing housing seal and ultimately the bearings and shaft. In my case, there is only a 1/2" gap between the end face of the roller and the interior face of the bearing housing, so grass would get wedged in between rather easily. Kept it cleaned out but couldn't eyeball the seal. Had to rebuild the assembly some years back. Better arrangements (Rears Manuf. Co. in OR makes a dandy flail) use rollers with a rounded or tapered end so grass doesn't get wound around the roller's shaft and you don't have to lift the flail to turn corners....

Thanks. The roller isn't tapered and I'll keep an eye on it. Not sure of the spacing. I'll look.

Not a whole lot of grass on my place, mainly brush, ferns, and blackberries. Probably even worse to get that crap wedged in there.

Still need to tweek the setup of the skids/rollers. Tried it with the roller on it's highest (out of three) setting (closer to the plane of the blades). Then set it to the lowest. Think I need to set it to the middle and raise the skids a bit.

But so far it does what I need to do which is get a really low cut and mulch (to a degree) stuff.