+1 on the braid with a fluro leader. Got it on all my spinning stuff. Tried the fluro on a baitcaster but went back to mono. Like efw said, "pretty serious birds nests".
Less visible and it sinks.... hard to manage compared to mono or braid and crappy knot strength... if you get a kink in it you are done....s it will break at that kink.
I only use it (whole spool) on my deep jig rods because it transmits vibration better on semi slack line. Other than that I only use it as a leader with braid.
Best use for fluro IME other than leaders or as hardway said, jigging, is trolling in clear water. YMMV.
I know flurocarbon line's recommended for various uses in magazines & by some of the pros on you tube & fishing channels but they're a considerable step up in casting ability and overall knowledge using fishing gear compared to most recreational fishermen.
Only downside I've heard is that mono will tolerate a bit more stretch that Flouro. Flouro's more likely to break from heavy shock. I went back to mono leaders when fly fishing for steelhead. Typically swinging flies on a near straight line, and some of those fish hit like freight trains. Add in ones "set the hook" response to a hit, and I was breaking off fish.
Floro is absolutely invisible underwater. It's more abrasion resistant than mono or braid. Because it's invisible, you can use a heavier line and the fish don't see it.
I troll high mountain lakes mostly for trout. Rocks and toothy Browns and Cutthroats can be tough on mono. My standard set up is braid mainline, barrel swivel with a Floro leader.
I have no problems with knots With Floro I use the Trilene knot. With braid, nanofil knot.
Good advice from above. It is generally stiffer and less malleable making it also more abrasion resistant. It also is much less forgiving than regular or co-polymer mono when it comes to stretch. Those are the major reasons we use it offshore trolling as we get a good solid hookup when we lines way out. Unless fishing in tuna waters, the visibility factor isn't as important. I love the stuff but use it only for leaders or as a topshot over braided mainline. On light tackle with braided line, I do use it for my leader. If visibility is important to you, they do make 'hybrid' lines of a sort that I think have fluorocarbon outer layer or coating with regular mono inside and performs like regular mono. I know they make 100% fluorocarbon line that is advertised for use as mainline but I don't know anyone who is using it. I would think that if the new stuff works well, some outdoor writer would do an article on it.
I spooled up flouro once to fish and it broke twice on good fish. I was fishing for Brown Trout with a big plastic minnow with 3 trebles. They were rolling and the hook cut the line. Never had that problem with mono so I went back to mono.
Guiding north of the border I have had many clients using floro while I used mono. On walleyes or pike I have not seen them catch any more than I do when my line is in the water. Granted fish in the remote lakes always seem hungry and not fussy.
When running lines for lake trout I have made long floro leaders and mono leaders and run them at the same time. Wether on Superior or northern remote lakes I have seen no difference.
Tarpon fishing I’ve not seen floro outfish mono.
Maybe in the states where fish are pressured more they are sharper and more observant and the floro makes sense?
Nothing scientific, just my personal observations.
I have to add that I’ve habitually run Berkley Fireline to a fluro leader as I said earlier in this thread.
I picked up a heavier rod/reel combo recently and decided to try Berkley Vanish which is 100% fluro.
I followed the tips that Randy Blauwkat (sp?) made on his “Intuitive Angling” YouTube channel for spooling fluro.
I also tied a sinker that has a swivel through it onto the end of my line, set the drag really loose, and had my son walk it down the street. When I got near the end of the spool I had him stop, I tightened down the drag and reeled him back. I told him it was the best fight I’d ever had from a sucker…
All those steps seemed to have saved me some trouble as I’ve had a couple trips, including much casting of inline spinners for northern, and no birds nests.
It is nice not to have to worry so much about leaders, and to feel freer to retie after a tough fight in which my line is drug across rocks and lumber and such.
I do not.... unless you keep the lines perfectly parallel when you tie it, it will cause a weak spot..... I prefer an improved clinch knot or a San Diego jam knot. I only use a palomar with mono or braid.
For those of you who use heavier fluoro (i.e. 40 lb) to terminal tackle (think trolling for chinook) how many wraps would you use of a San Diego jam knot?
For those of you who use heavier fluoro (i.e. 40 lb) to terminal tackle (think trolling for chinook) how many wraps would you use of a San Diego jam knot?
Yeah. I replaced mono with it and found it 'stronger' in some ways but it feels 'starched', less pliable. compared to mono. Did save some lures mono would have lost me in reeds. I think it is best used for a leader tied to mono.
Of course I am too lazy for any such fancy rigging but if I were serious about my fishing would go that route.