PLine, Yozuri & Seaguar all say they've got light fluorocarbon lines that will work well with light spinning gear. Has anyone tried these or any other brands of fluorocarbon line on light spinning gear that worked ok? Thanks.

Anxious to hear this too..I need educating on flourocarbons...never used them...

picked up some this weekend to rig up a rod with and try this spring and summer.......

Keep us posted...stretch, strength etc..

Gonna use it on Wallys?

i target walleyes......i wind up catching all kinds of stuff: snot rockets, ling, sturgeon, smallmouth, drum.....the problem of fishing where walleyes are pickier than everything else some days

I've only used fluorocarbon a few times as main line and it does have some unique qualities. Some good and some not so good.

Low stretch, high strength to diameter, and low visibility are the pluses. The one thing I don't like is the low memory. It can have the tendency to coil off the spool when casting if everything isn't kept taught. It's similar to what happens when you over fill a spinning reel.

My buddy, the pro bass fisherman, likes Seaguar the best and he's tried most of em'.

picked up some stuff that says its sposed to work pretty well for spinning gear.....hoping the low stretch will help me pay better attention to the light taps of picky 'eyes when bank fishing the river......figured it wouldnt hurt to rig up one pole and try it.....

Ive used p-line for years for icefishing like it very much...

I just tried Seaguar this winter.. The yellow box.... It almost had to much stretch to it.. Lost fish a couple of feet off the bottom.. I talked to guy at the bait store about he said try the red box version...

I mainly use these in case theres a lite bite... I would recommend p-line....

i don't like light flourocarbon for a mainline.
The uncoiling off the spool is a problem, and it's knot strength is still less than a mono.
The knot strength issue was enough to run me back to mono.

I have a couple set up with 4 lb fireline which I really like.
Since I started using the smoke gray fireline, I quit useing a flouo or mono leader with it and it works quite well for me.

I've used Yozuri in the past with mixed results on my spinning reels. However, for my purposes, power pro braid had been hard to beat, then using about 18" of 40# Seaguar Flouro as leader material.

I also use about a foot of heavy Seaguar Flouro 60# and 80# as tarpon leader bite tippet. Unless we're talking about really light line, 8# and under, I've just about parted company with mono. Way too much line stretch leads to weak hook sets and lost fish.

Floro on spinning stuff is not easy to manage. The biggest advantage to floro is that it's nearly invisible underwater, lower stretch, and it sinks, which helps when using some crankbaits or suspending jerkbaits.

Most guys here use a mono or braid main line, and then a 6-10ft floro leader. We use this set up for tailing redfish in the saltwater flats, sightfishing for bedding bass, or pitching senkos in really clear water.

I will use floro as a main line on my baitcasters, but I stick with 12-15lb test. It's on all my jerkbait rods and my pitching rods I use for sightfishing. A slender pointer jerkbait on 15 lb floro is my go to, money bait for post spawn bass.

Seaguar Invis-X, Berkley 100% floro are the 2 brands I use the most. Sunline shooter IS the best out there, but also the the most expensive, by far.

A palimar knot WILL work fine with floro, as long as you keep the knot super wet while tying.

Most of the water I fish is pretty heavily stained by mangroves, so I've never felt the need for a top shot of 6-10ft of fluoro, but I might give a shorter length a try this spring. Maybe 3-5ft. I don't think the 18" fluoro leader has hurt me so far, but I'd like to experiment a little just to make sure. When you're fishing along a mangrove shoreline, the water can be pretty shallow along the edge, the green braid just might be scaring a few away.

I mostly use this setup for snook fishing with top water lures in and around heavy mangrove cover. Most of my fish are under 10#, but every now and then a 25#+ fish could come along.

Just for the sake of discussion - line stretch does not always equal weak hook sets. It can be made up for by using super sharp sticky hooks. Line stretch can be an advantage when fighting fish.

I'm not trying to stir up an argument but there are advantages to the different properties of different lines in different situations.

i have no doubt the stretch of mono can be handy at times, i just know im missing hook sets on some light bites when bank fishing for walleye because of it and am hoping the fluoro will help me feel them out better and since bout all my rigs are spinning rigs its what it will get put on.....figured it was worth the experiment.....

I agree completely that line stretch can be helpful in many situations, no argument there. This is especially true when you're fly fishing for large fish that require one or two really hard strip-strikes.

If I were to strip strike a big tarpon, with little or no line stretch, I wouldn't be able to pull on the line very hard without breaking the leader at its weakest point. That is one of the reasons why big game fly leaders are built in sections with different types of mono, with generally only the bite tippet in flouro. If mono alone isn't enough stretch, some people add Bimini Twist knots to their leader for even more stretch.

For topwater snook fishing, I found that less stretch makes it a little easier to move the fish a foot or two out of its hiding hole in the heavy mangroves before it gets the chance to turn back in.

As far as the super sharp hooks go, I don't really look at it as one or the other, I would say that in all cases of fishing that makes good sense.

It may sound wierd but there was one type fishing where I didn't sharpen my hooks. It was jigging for halibut in Alaska. I stopped sharpening my jig hooks after sticking a 12/0 (or 14/0?) 8 oz lead jig completely through my finger. For me and for the safety of my passengers, the sticky sharp hooks on heavy lead jigs were just too dangerous.

Before I discovered Power Pro, I swore by Yo Zuri Ultra Soft.

Hard to go wrong with Yo Zuri or Maxima if you don't like braid.

P Line CX Premium has fluorocarbon coating, does not seem to me to be any more visible when held side by side in water, and since it is a copolymer, does not suffer the coil-springing off the spinning reel spool of regular fluorocarbon. It also has smaller diameter so you can use heavier line if you want. I've used it in 4, 6, 8, 10, 20, and 30 pound weights for everything from brook trout to yellowfin tuna without the problems of a full spool of fluorocarbon on a spinning reel. It casts well, is soft, sets hooks better than regular mono, and is not as high priced as fluorocarbon.

I fish Clear Lake in Northern CA. I have tried them all but the best light line floro I have found is Seaguar. Another option is to use braid and floro tied to it with an albright knot.

I use Fluoro for worming and jigs on the bottom because it sinks and has less stretch for good hook sets in brush and cover. P line or Maxima for all other casting rod presentations. Never on a spinning rod because stiffness produces excessive line jump. For all spinning rods I use Berkley XL only.

I use Seaguar InvisX on all of my spinning reels. Never have any more problems with it than I did with mono. The plus side is its stronger, thinner than the same size mono, and is invisible in the gin clear water I smallmouth fish. The only downside I see is the stuff is expensive.

i use p-line flouraclear on all my spinning reels.last year i hooked and landed 3 muskie while bassfishing on 10lb p-line . all 3 were over 35in.biggest was 39.

I just bought a spool of the Berkley Fireline fused crystal in 10lb test, 4lb dia. I'm really excited about using this stuff figured it would be great for a couple of the trout stream where they like to hang out under some blowdowns. I just started using the p-line for icefishing and love the stuff. I think I'll use it instead of steel leaders this summer

That stuff rocks, but I think you'll still need a flouro leader for trout unless there is a good stain in the river. Crankbaits are about the only reason to stay with mono, IMO, so you can do the guitar pluck to free a lure.