I've always like Mausers. To that end, I really want a Swede to hunt with. I'm not real well versed on the different Mauser rifles. If you were going to build a 6.5 Swede as a hunting rifle, what action would you choose?
Second question-can I do the cock-on-open conversion at a later time, or does it need to be done in conjunction with the trigger and safety job? I don't want to stay with a stepped military barrel. Suggestions for a decent barrel that won't totally break the bank will be appreciated, as will suggestions on a decent stock. Wood or glass? I will definitely be mounting a scope on this, and Weaver bases are fine by me. Scope will most likely be a 3x-9x of yet to be determined pedigree. What would you guys suggest? Anyone have a complete gun or action I could start with? Thanks for your suggestions guys.

Just get a 98 action and you won't have to dink with cock on opening. That said I have 2 small ring Swedes here and they are very fine as is.

Have one of these https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...t-chambered-mauser-barrel-prod22531.aspx on a large ring.

Tag

There are many different ways to approach a build. The most expedient way to a scope rifle is to start with a commercial Mauser action like an FN or Interarms Mk X or similar. Already drilled and tapped and bolt is scope friendly.

Basically, replace the barrel and go shooting. Wanna get fancier, restock it.

I've built a good many 6.5x55's. Some utilitarian and some fancy. My first personal 6.5x55 was built on a Mk X action using a LW Barrel. It has an 8.7" twist. These days I prefer to use an 8" twist to take advantage of all the high BC bullets offered nowadays.

Both my boys started with 6.5x55's. My youngest's was built on a SR Mexican 98 action, my oldest's on a Commercial 98.

Thanks for the info guys. What should I expect the price range to be on an FN or Interams action assuming I can find one?

Both will run between $200-$500 for a solid donor. Usually the FN will bring a higher price.

A Turkish action will accept a Swede barrel. They're both threaded the same.....
You'll have a "Twede"....

Back when Turk actions and Swede takeoff or NOS barrels were cheap and plentiful, this was a viable option. Now NOS Swede barrels are hard to find and expensive when you do. Add to that the cost to have the action drilled and tapped and a new bolt handle installed and its easy to see why starting with a Commercial Action ends up being a more economical approach in the end.

Certainly not the most economical approach, but using a M96 Swede as the basis for a "once in a lifetime" custom gun has its merits. Do a search for the rifle that forum member "Pugs" did recently. He started with a M96 action and installed all the bells and whistles and his smith did a masterful job of tuning it, plus a new 20" barrel and full length stock made of gorgeous walnut. I've held the rifle and it is to die for. (And it shoots marvelously too.) Perhaps he'll see this and post a pic.

Thanks for the heads up Gary. We’re up in NH right now on the retirement lake search and pics are a pain with the tools I have right now so will have to wait until later this week.

On the cock on opening. I did an Ed LaPour 3 position safety (ok. To be fair Mark Penrod did who deserves all the credit) and it was a major pain he said. Does work perfectly though.

Lots and lots of metal smoothing needed.

I'd love to put together a beautiful Mannlicher stocked 96, but this will just be a working man's hunting gun build. I want an aftermarket barrel, not a stepped military barrel. I'll be doing this in chunks, as I can afford it. I really want to stay with a military action, preferably a 96. Guess first step will be to pick up a gun or a donor action. Are there things I should definitely stay away from when looking for an action or donor gun? I'm wanting minute of deer accuracy. Doesn't have to be a half inch bench rest gun, just consistent.

About 30 years ago when I was on a major 6.5x55 kick I threw together a half-assed sporter using a M38 Swedish Short Rifle as a donor. (Mind you such beasts were $100 or less back then.) I found an old Bishop semi-inlet stock and whittled about a pound of superfluous wood off it, stuck an orphan aftermarket 22" barrel on it (gunshow find, maker unknown), and mounted a Lyman cocking piece sight. Safety and cock-on-closing, and original turned down bolt handle all was left alone. The thing shot like crazy, but that wasn't enough to prevent me from swapping it off on some long forgotten treasure a few years later. I don't miss the gun terribly but I would give my left nut to have that cocking piece sight back.

I remember it loved the same load that was sweet in my then current Winchester XTR Featherweight 6.5x55- 46 or 47 grains (c'mon, it was 30 years ago) IMR 4831 (not H-4831, there was a distinct difference in performance) and the 129 Hornady, Norma brass (which was about all that was available back then). 140 Partitions were a close second.

They can make a tidy piece. Here are a few shots of my 7x57 that Jim Wisner metaled. The quarter rib runs on to the receiver ring with integral scope mount base. The left side was given the 33/40 cut. He also made an excellent set of QD rings that time perfectly and he made the bottom metal. Cock on closing with a LaPour safety. Glass smooth in function and quite accurate.

Beautiful rifle Ed.

Found a 96 Swede with plans for a truck gun. Chopped the barrel to 24", mounted a scope, and had a butter knife bolt handle installed. With it still carrying the 110 year old military barrel, it will consistently do clover leafs at 100 yds and went to the safe with my other fine guns. Still need a truck gun.

Husqvarna 640.

Quality made, with good steel.

I have a few19092 with crests intact I'd like to use for a brace of 7x57s for my wife and daughter. I have another 1909 I could possibly be convinced to part ways with. PM if you'd like to chat.

Whatever action you choose, it would be more economical for you to find a custom rifle already made. You never get the full Return of the money sunk into a custom. It is best to let someone else eat that depreciation.

Honestly if you really want the most bang for your buck buy a Tikka T3 hunter in 6.5.

If you must build a custom, look for a rifle that has already been sporterized. The donor action will be much cheaper

Yeah, but where's the fun in that?!

Oh, believe me I understand! Just had to throw that out there

Folks,

Meant to get back to this and somehow life got in the way. Story of my Mauser. Good friend Hatari has built several 96 Mauser with a stash he had. I made an offer of a bottle of quite decent bourbon for a 1943 action, a barrel and the bottom metal. The fact that we (Hatari, Jorge and Zeke) drank the bottle that very evening around a nice fire makes it no less important. In fact, it may make it more special.

Jorge has spoken highly of Mark Penrod of Penrod Precision for his work on model 70's and pretty much everything else. I contacted him and had a great discussion. Like most out there he was very booked but I had time. Eventually we got together and discussed. This was not meant to be a safe gun but a shooter that I intend to use the rest of my life. It took a couple years to get all the timing to work out. I put myself in his capable hands.

1) The barrel was an unknown quantity and Mark recommended a Hopewell from his experience. Wanting a Mannlicher I went with a 1 in 8" 3 groove of 19 1/2 "
2) The trigger was good, a slight tuning and it's a great 2 1/2 lbs I like my hunting triggers.
3) He did a tremendous amount of smoothing and shaping to make the military action very nice
4) Ed LaPour 3-position safety and thus a shift to cock on opening. This took a bunch of time to get the timing right and it's superb.
5) NEGC NEGC sights for rear and front and regulated to 50 yards. Will I shoot it much with iron sights? Doubtful but a Mannlicher looks naked without them.
6) I went with a fixed floor plate. In 40 years of shooting rifles with opening floorplates I've never found a real need.
7) Talley removables to allow use of the fixed sights. IOR 4X32 scope with a German #4 reticle.
8) Stock was by Wenigs. Mark sent it off to them, I had to upgrade the wood one grade due to blank size but well, I like wood. Took three months and done on schedule.

It's only been to the range a couple times but it's turned in quite acceptable groups fro what I want. The 140 Remington Accutip being the best at hair less than 1" but I have some 156 gr Oryx's loaded to try next.

Overall, this is a hunting rifle and I am in it for no more than a high end production rifle (think low-end Dakota /Cooper) and it was really a pleasure working with Mark. His craftsmanship and attention to the customer has my highest possible recommendation.

I've held the rifle and will be shooting it next month at our annual get together at my wife's place in the PA mountains. The rifle is truly a masterful work of art...

Deer should come from miles around to be shot with such a classy rifle.

Yes, they should!

gophergunner;
Good evening to you my cyber friend, I trust all is well with you and your fine family tonight.

Somehow I missed this earlier and will try not to repeat too much information already covered, but as it's me, it'll like as not be anything but brief.

Our personal history with 6.5x55's started back in the late '70's when there were lots of 96 Swedes imported in which could be had for less than $75 shipping included.

In about '85 I bought an "extra clean" made in 1903 by Carl Gustav, paying something less than $60CDN for it on sale from Century Arms in Montreal.

The plan was to make it into a sporter for my father and that's what I did. The mods included a new bolt handle welded on, new end cap made up, reshape and checker the stock, epoxy bed the action, shorten barrel to 20", install recoil pad, change safety to a Mk II and lighten the stock trigger.

When Dad aged to the point where he couldn't use it any longer, he returned it to me saying that he hoped one of the grand kids might want it. As it turned out it was our eldest daughter who saw the rifle in the back of the safe and asked about "the one with the wood all the way to the muzzle".

She was 11 when she claimed it and had a bit of an issue with the cock on closing feature, so I picked up a Dayton-Traister cock on open kit which included a replacement trigger.

The resulting rifle really needs to be run to be appreciated, honestly it's as smooth as one of the better small ring Huskys one will find - which in my view is about as nice as a Mauser ever built.



As they say in the King Jame's version, in the fullness of time as we hunted together, I began to notice that our daughter's Swede did as much or slightly more tissue damage on local whitetail and mulie bucks - shooting 130gr TSX bullets than my .270 walking around rifle shooting 130gr TTSX and GMX.

Way back when I did a whole thread on it and it makes for some interesting reading. If you'd like I can likely find it and put up a link.

Anyway...... I had a gunsmith up the valley install a very good/nearly new Swede military barrel onto the 98 action that I'd built my "walking around rifle" on.

As it sits on the post - including 5 rounds of 120gr TTSX - it weighs 7lbs 4oz

I can put the entire build spec up if you or anyone is interested - the base is a between the wars, commercial roll marked Mauser action - no Nazi proofs either - so kinda rare up here anyway.



On this build I left the steps in the barrel, though I did consider having the 'smith spin them off. The rationale behind using the Swede military barrel is that it's a deep groove, fast twist barrel which seems to dote on solid copper bullets - or they love it - anyway it's what we use and it works really, really well on deer sized game here in BC.

Hopefully that was some use to you or someone out there in ether space tonight.

We are enough true believer to use 125 year old cartridges and for that matter 116 year old rifles and almost as old components for our primary hunting arms.

All the best to you as we head into the fall.

Dwayne

Thanks for all the info guys. I hope to start this project soon.

I have a pair of minty undrilled/untapped 1909 Argies with crests intact in either 6.5x55 or 7x57 for my wife and daughter.

Occasional lurker and rare poster - but this caught my eye as I think you're setting out on a fun project with the makings of great results.

Maybe 25 years ago I built a 6.5X55 on an M38 base - NOS stepped barrel cut to 20", walnut stock, cock on opening, action bedded/barrel floated from approx 1.5 forward of the action, jeweled bolt, hi-gloss blue, Timney or Bold - I forget which. Worked up two loads - 140 gr Sierra and 120 gr NBT. Very accurate with both. Hadn't shot it in a few years so just this past weekend took it out to check zero and figure I'll use it this deer season. These were shot at 100 yards off a bench, .35 Rem target is the target on the left, 6.5X55 is the center target, NBT 120s. Both 3 shots, then an adjustment for a total of 4 shots each group. Scope on the 6.5X55 is an old Burris 3X9 compact.

IMO, the 6.5 bore relative to barrel thickness of the stepped barrel plus cut to 20" makes a very stiff barrel and aids accuracy... at least that was my theory way back when. Whatever the reasons for it, this rifle has always been a great shooter. Cloverleafs are the norm and one-hole groups when I do my part. Good luck with your project!

The hardest receivers I ever drilled and tapped were:
1) 1896 Swedish Mauser in 2002
2) 1899 Krag, last week

that sure turned out nice. plus it showed up new with a ton of history already in it. hard to beat.

Jeff,

Ironic that this question is coming from you because when we met at your cottage a lovely M96 Swede changed hands. I bought a partially finished one in 7x57 from Matt and still have it & the Boyd’s Prairie Hunter stock he sold me with it in my cabinet waiting in line behind the Mexican Small Ring in .257 Rob that’s in the mail to Birdsong for Black T plating and then the Large Ring Swede with take-off I got here & GORGEOUS French walnut JRS Classic that Karnis worked his magic on when he was still gracing us with his presence & handiwork.

Anyway I have no intention of having the cock-on-close conversion done. Mike McCabe will reshape the bottom metal, bolt knob, light-contour CM tube, and D&T were done by Dave at IT&D when the rifle was owned by Matt. So bottom metal, safety conversion, bluing, and stock work are “all” I gotta do!

As has been said already, there are much less expensive & time intensive ways around the barn but the custom, of you want to spend the money and time (I’ve learned the hard way not to fall for shortcuts around those!) offers satisfaction unlike anything else.

What MTDan said. Building a sporter from a military rifle was a traditional way to a nice sporter rifle in the 50's and 60's when donor guns and upgrade parts and gunsmith labor were relatively inexpensive. Two approaches: 1) Send your action/donor rifle off to a competent gunsmith and get your checkbook out, or 2) put together a Finn Aagaard sporter (alter bolt handle to clear scope, drill and tap for scope mounts, trim down military stock, replace barrel if original has bad bore) a bit at a time. The latter is considerably more entertaining and satisfying to a DIY guy but requires lots of gun show visits to pick up the various bits and pieces starting with an action or a donor rifle. Even with careful shopping this will still set you back more than a good secondhand commercial rifle and almost as much as a new Tikka. You will need a new bolt handle welded on, scope base holes drilled and tapped, commercial trigger, possibly a new/used barrel, and eventually a sporter stock. I've put together several starting with Czech VZ24 (M98 large ring) actions from $100 surplus donor rifles(now $250 or more), $75-100 bolt handle replacement, did my own scope base drilling and tapping with a Brownells jig-otherwise $40 to the 'smith, installed Timney trigger $60-80, install scope-clearing Buehler safety $30, replaced barrel ($150 or more) and gunsmith installation (
$100 or more), and Boyds/Hogue stock(? $175 and up). Educational and rewarding experience, and pay as you go. If lucky, good used/takeoff barrels and sporter stocks can be found for less....but it might take 2-3 years poking around guns show and one man gunshops and there is no guarantee a used barrel will shoot well. I've had one ringer, several OK, and a couple that shoot better than I do. Most recent project is a VZ24 large ring with a new Brownells 6.5 x 55 barrel in a secondhand Bell and Carlson glass stock. Working up loads to see how it will shoot before investing in blueing. My least expensive Aagaard style sporter was a VZ24($80), altered bolt handle($50), surplus new Israeli .308 barrel ($35) which headspaced without gunsmith attention, and VZ24 stock cut down and inletted for new bolt handle clearance. But you cannot find the bits and pieces for those prices anymore.

Now, yesterday the Dundee, MI Cabela's had several Yugoslav commercial mauser sporters in 8 x 57 JS for, IIRC, $329 in the used gun rack with nice stocks, low bolts, drilled and tapped. Similar night be available at other Cabela's. Just the prospects for rebarreling to 6.5 x 55 or 7 x 57....or just shoot 'em in 8 x57.

Getting back to OP's questions: I would avoid Mauser M93 and M95 actions and Chinese M98 copies. Swedish M96/M38 are OK. Just about any Mauser M98, Argentine 1909, Czech VZ24, FN, Mexican 1910, Interarms Mk X, Husqvarna, Oberndorf would work. I've had one Austrian Steyr that was too hard to drill.

Look for matching numbers, but if you are going to rebarrel a non-matching bolt will work. Avoid pitted receivers and bolt faces. Check the engaging faces of the bolt lugs for setback marks(avoid) and even wear. Make sure drilled surplus actions have the scope base holes in a straight line and spaced to match currently available scope bases. Look for cracks in the front ring...although cracked receivers are uncommon, not unheard of. Check for receiver straightness, sometimes rails get bent. Make sure the lip of the extractor is not chipped. Inspect altered bolt handle roots for complete welds and professional weld grinding/polishing.

Ludwig Olson and Jerry Kuhnhausen authored books on Mausers which are excellent sources of information.

Found a JC Higgins in 30-06 in a local pawn shop for my swede build. A very nice FN action but a very crappy trigger design. I went with the Dakota 3 position safety and a Timney trigger.

Kansan

That's a fine start...