I have a 98 mauser that has been drilled and taped..it has the 2 price blocks that Weaver calls for it .. I've tried 3 different sets of rings and 4 different scopes and can't get one to adjust down to target.thanks for any help

Pics? Have you run a level across the tops of the bases? Which # bases and what 98? Need a wee bit more info before we can provide you any useful input.

45 front and 46 rear... I've been trying to get pictures updated..sorry

Uploaded

https://ibb.co/jGNTB6m
https://ibb.co/mqJ6B2g
https://ibb.co/L988vJ6
https://ibb.co/

As you can see there's not much in the way of markings

So, it's a standard large ring 98. Since the charger hump hasn't been removed, I'd look at the rear base. There is a radius at the back of the charger hump that will interfere with the base, lifting the front. Run a level or flat over the tops of the bases to see if they are on the same plane and/ or level. You might find that the rear base is tilted upward at the front edge where it contacts the charger hump. The base may not be contacting the hump but, it may be higher than the front base simply due to the fact that these actions were not designed with scope mounting in mind. Thus, there tends to be a good deal of variation among the various manufacturers with regards to the rear bridge dimensions. Unaltered front rings tend to be much more consistent in size. Bear in mind too that bases tend to be made to fit commercial Mauser actions. When milsurp actions are altered to a commercial configuration the rear bridge is often not the same height as its commercial counterpart. Many folks address this by shimming the bases until they are level. I like to alter the base(s) or make my own as required.

Thanks... I Just found on Weaver where shimming my be required

Order an EGW picitinny rail(0 MOA) for the military 98 action. Order it without the screw holes. It will be machined to clear the stripper clip hump on the rear bridge:

https://www.egwguns.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Mauser+98

Order a brownells reamer for 6-48 fillister or tapered screws. Whichever screws you prefer. If you go tapered reamer, you can use the supplied egw screws.

If you know what you're doing, you can center this rail while using the existing holes, which were probably drilled into the receiver by some idiot, without using a jig.

Snug down the front screws. If the rear of the rail floats and doesn't mate to the receiver bridge perfectly, shim it, then cinch down the rear bridge screws.

The one piece EGW rail without holes is your friend. It'll get you on paper if you do it right.

I envy guys with commercial fn receivers, which were drilled and taped properly from the factory with industry standard patterns.

I have fixed three mausers with these rails: a parker hale 243 winchester, a Santa Fe arms 30-06 and a Waffenfabrik Oberndorf Mauser. All with crooked scope base holes. The parker hale needed a shim on the rear bridge.

If you mess up, youre only out $40 for the rail. Try again.

Once you get the rigid rail true to the action, you can do some cutting of the rail and convert it to 2 piece bases If you like an unimpeded action area for loading of cartridges.

The rear mount is definitely lower the the front

Does the scope tube have a kink or bend in it now? I had one of the craptastic Kimber sporterized Swedish Mausers that had miss aligned bases...Kinked a good scope because I assumed the mounts were aligned...

Wouldn't a one piece Redfiled JR base work? If I recall correctly they were designed to fit over the hump.

Pretty sure I have a box with a few it somewhere if you want to try one out. Free plus shipping.

Kent

Then some metal shims under the rear base can get you up to height. Even stock cut from an aluminum can could be a place to start.

if you look at the pics of the front ring and the scope base, you will see it is mounted in a non standard location. Thus, it is unlikely that a one piece base will fit. Due to the non-standard hole spacing (layout) the previous suggestion to drill a blank base to fit the receiver's holes is a more viable option, one I've had to do many times in order to scope a receiver that someone bought thinking they'd save some money buying a receiver that was already drilled and tapped.

Z1r,

Yes the EGW rails are top notch. I fixed another mauser last night. One rear screw hole was off. Height was perfect so no shims.

I ran the base screw from inside the rear bridge. When sufficient thread protruded outward, I tapped on the top of the rail. Pull the rail, and the underside had an imprint of where the screw hole needed to be drilled.

The rigid egw rail affixed to the front receiver ring, is always my "proof check".

First shot out the barrel with a new Redfield 2-7 hit the bullseye at 25 yds, so it's close.

You could also try a 20a on the front, same hole location and lower height than a 46 if I remember right.

Well, maybe. My 1948 FN (FI import) came with a wacky Buhler one-piece base that doesn't line up with any other FN I checked. Only one hole was drilled in the bridge, so I had my smith drill another so I can use any two-piece bases. I suspect that one made the trip over here without holes and was drilled by whoever put the barreled action in the stock. It's a C-ring, so pretty early.

Be sure to get the bore of the rifle level before tinkering with the scope mounts. I machine a piece of aluminum round stock that's a snug slip fit a few inches into the muzzle, long enough to support a torpedo level. Once the bore is level, I move on to attaching and shimming the bases.
Jerry

Try a #55 rear base they are taller. Made for the small ring Mausers.

This may help.
W.R. Weaver Company Mount Base Specifications
DETACHABLE MOUNT BASES
No. of Base Length Hole Spacing Diameter Thickness
11 .812 .504 1.290 .147
12 .812 .504 .925 .155
13 .812 .504 .730 .238
14 .812 .504 Tapered for Savage 99 only
15 .812 .504 .946 .195
16 .812 .504 .840 .205
17 .812 .504 .770 .219
18 .812 .504 1.050 .182
19 .812 .504 1.160 .125
20A 1.168 .860 1.360 .127
21 .812 .504 .710 .273
22 .812 .504 .700 .201
24 .812 .504 .900 .271
25 .812 .504 1.125 .248
27 .812 .504 .930 Tapered .161/.185
28 .812 .504 Flat .239
29 .812 .504 Flat .292
30 .812 .504 .845 Tapered .205/.230
31 .812 .504 Octag. .182
32 .812 .504 Octag. .357
35 1.168 .860 1.290 .147
36 1.401 .604 3.900 .272
39 .812 .504 Flat .165
40A 1.840 .860 1.290 .147
42 .812 .504 .730 .298
43 .812 .504 .840 .265
44 .812 .504 .770 .279
45 .812 .504 1.050 .396
46 1.168 .860 1.290 .222
47 1.168 .860 2.692 .368
48 .812 .504 1.290 .395
49A 1.058 Win. 70 in 375 H&H, 300 H&H only .368
50 4.500 .504 Flat-Tapered .200/.232
53 4.983 Win. 88, 100 1.290 .222
54 .812 .504 1.290 .222
55 .812 .504 1.050 .310
57 2.340 .960 1.220 .250
58 4.624 3.275 Flat .283
59 .812 One hole only Notched .366
60 4.500 Browning .22 Auto, H&R "Topper" .361
61 1.168 .860 Flat .360
62 4.430 Rem. 740, 760 1.290 .222
63A 6.125 Marlin 336 Flat .283
63B 5.450 Marlin 336 Flat .370
65 2.000 None Spec. * .322
66 2.650 None Spec. * .322
67 1.650 None Spec. * .332
68 .812 .504 .916 .399
70 5.900 Rem 600 1.290 .275

Shim it with a proper steel one. .012 should get ya in the ball park.
If push comes to shove.
Probably your least expensive and easiest solution.

Aluminum can thickness is like .004 IIRC

Shims IMO are a band aid fix.....

The idea of steel or aluminum can stacked shims is bubba schitt in my mind.
But they will work.........

Not to mention the chance of a galvanic reaction between uncoated beer can aluminum alloy and gun steel.

I went thru this shim fiasco schitt with a VX3I 3.5x10-40 with lupy 2 peice bass and lupy low rings several years ago as their " solution" for a fugged up scope issue( I dont buy lupy anything anymore)

Other advice given on here is excellent also.
Wealth of knowledge for sure from guys.

The idea of a shim under a base would bother me.

It did when I did it.....seeing that gap under the base bugged the schit outta me.
And it was the lupy scope that was fugged up, their shim band aid fix was bullschitt for their fugged up scope.
Spun my wheels on that schitt.
Burn me once I'm done with your product.

Im really OCD with perfection, as I'm sure many others are also on here.

I would get the base,s 100% right and not have schitt bugging me.

Good luck with your project man!!!
I hope it turns out excellent!!!!!

After my intial post above.

Those bases look really really worn honestly.
Huge amount of what appears to be ground up aluminum dust all over em???
They look really worn in the saddle depth and fore and aft width.
Part of your problem might be tolerance stacking I bet.
Also total MOA in your scope you are using might be an issue.
All contributing to tolerance stacking.

JMO......

I picked up a nice sporter made on a Mexican Mauser action last year. It had a pictnanny rail which I did not care for so got rid if it and picked up some two piece bases and qd Talley rings for a scope I had. I could not get it bore sited. Upon some careful examination with my local gunsmith, we determined that the holes that were d/t'd for the rear bases were off center to the front ring holes, which made the rear base tilt to the right. I asked about filling those out of line screw holes and re drilling and tapping, but he took the base and machined some off so it rotated the base back into line , not quite 100% but very close. I then got a set of the Burris rings with the polymer inserts. I also got a couple of sets of their eccentric polymer inserts,, then re centered the reticule in my scope and actually got it bore sighted by playing with those eccentric ring inserts.

Sorry to be late to join but...
Didn't the OP say he was unable to adjust the point of impact of his rounds "down" to the point of aim of his scope - no matter how far down he adjusted the scope? IOW, that the rifle was shooting too high?
If I am understanding that right, then doesn't that mean the rear base is too high? That makes perfect sense if the radius at the back of the clip loading hump is interfering with the rear Weaver base seating correctly on the rear bridge, and thus sitting too high. Many people are talking about shimming the rear base - wouldn't that make the problem even worse?
If it were mine, and the problem really was the bullets hitting too high with the scope adjusted all the way down, I would carefully file a little bit off the underside of the forward portion of the rear base to see if that would allow it to fully seat on the rear bridge and maybe fix the problem. Only out a few bucks if it doesn't.
Then again maybe I'm missing the OP point but think about what I just wrote and visualize the line of sight and the line of bore.
Best of luck with it,
Rex