A neighbor gave me a semi sporterized 1917 Enfield to keep or sell. It's been neglected, but it is now cleaned up and operable. The question I have regards the magazine follower. It tips forward and therefore when I push the bolt forward on a empty magazine the bolt face hits the back of the follower. Of course, if you depress the follower with your finger the bolt moves forward. Is this the way this rifle was designed or has someone screwed up the follower?
Thanks,
Logger
That's the rifle's way of telling a panicky infantryman in the middle of a firefight "You're empty- - - - -feed me!" Military issue Mausers do the same thing. You can grind a taper on the back of the follower if you want the bolt to close on an empty chamber. BTW, it's a "US 1917"- - - - - -P-14 Enfields were chambered in .303 British.
Jerry
It is designed that way, so that you know when you are empty and don't inadvertently close the bolt on an empty chamber in battle. A number of other military rifles have the same feature, for the same reason.
"Click, click, click" is nowhere near as good as "boom, boom, boom", and an Infantryman in the heat of combat can click a lot if allowed to.
They were robust rifles that would take hard use and keep on going. I’ve had a few of them.
That's the rifle's way of telling a panicky infantryman in the middle of a firefight "You're empty- - - - -feed me!" Military issue Mausers do the same thing. You can grind a taper on the back of the follower if you want the bolt to close on an empty chamber. BTW, it's a "US 1917"- - - - - -P-14 Enfields were chambered in .303 British.
Jerry
Good post.. I also agree with the other poster that said they are good robust actions... Heavy, but built like tanks..
That's the rifle's way of telling a panicky infantryman in the middle of a firefight "You're empty- - - - -feed me!" Military issue Mausers do the same thing. You can grind a taper on the back of the follower if you want the bolt to close on an empty chamber. BTW, it's a "US 1917"- - - - - -P-14 Enfields were chambered in .303 British.
Jerry
Good post.. I also agree with the other poster that said they are good robust actions... Heavy, but built like tanks..
The follower also keeps the bolt from sliding half closed when said infantry soldier rams the 5 round stripper clip down into the clip slot to feed the rifle.
I turned a P-17 in to a 308 Norma, have since gave it to my Gr'dson. Cheers NC
I bought a sporterized US 1917 in a pawn shop, labeled as a .300 MAG. After some unsuccessful bargaining, I left. The shop owner caught me halfway to my car and accepted my offer. OK- - - -let's see how this thing shoots- - - - -bought a box of 300 WM ammo- - - - -won't chamber! A few minutes with some Cerrosafe told the tale- - - -yep, it's a 300 magnum- - - -H&H style! I got a classic "Cripple and Kill" rifle- - - -"Kills what's out front- - - -cripples what's behind!" Then I scored a hundred pieces of once-fired brass and loading dies in another horsetrade! The whole thing, rifle, scope, brass, and dies didn't quite add up to $400.00!
Jerry
You have one of the strongest actions ever made. I have a sporter and a stock military version. Both are on my favorites list. You can run up some pretty stiff loads and the weight helps on the back end.
US Rifle of 1917 was a very good rifle....but...Eddystone's had some heat treating problems, awfully hard, not just unfounded rumor, I have personally experienced burnt drills and broken taps. Gunsmith Kinks by Leonard Brownell has lots of comments on this. They will work well and forever with the loads they were designed for. Go with the Remington made if you are going to hotrod the 1917.
Sir, if you decide to sell it ill take it
I liked the one I had, it shot soft in issue condition and weight. If you continue the sporterizing let me suggest an Outback conversion. Leave all metal untouched, have your way with the wood and finish it as Crocodile Dundee's heavy, for when the 303 is just almost as good. Simple but jaunty.