What is the best line to use when fishing around pilings/piers rubble ?

I'm sure it isn't going to be mono -i just bought an abu-garcia C3 and a berkley rod set-up for braid.I filled it with momoi 12lbs. and it ain't too abrasive.
Any help ?-Mike

braid like power pro. i fought a shark that took my line around the chains that hold the doors for the net on a shrimp boat. i fought it for 30 minutes like that with the line at almost 90 deg. around the chain till i worked back around and landed the shark. this was with 30# power pro. still have the same line on the reel two yrs later

Wow that's the kind of tough i'm looking for !

I looked at the abu c-4 you mentioned on the other thread "spinning vs. casting reels" very nice reel -just a little bigger than i needed!Very nice reel for the money!
I've did a lot of big-game fishing and the magibraid i used as 'backing' was a bit troublesome -under heavy drag it would jump in anywhere that you didn't lay it on the reel right.

Which power pro would you reccommend pound wise on the abu c-3 reel that is a 10-12 lb. mono rig ? 20lb.?
Thanks -Mike

Braid is good stuff, but it does have some peculiarities. It is essentially that you spool the reel under pressure, or the line will dig in on itself and tie up the reel. Because it is so small in dia, it can take alot of braid to fill up a spool, so I generally use a backing of dacron or mono. Braid can cut into itself, so you need to use knots that are braid friendly, or you'll loose 1/2 the lines strength at the knot. Because braid is so small in dia, if the fish makes a run while you grab the line you'll get cut by the line. Also braid has almost no stretch so it puts more strain on your reels drag, and on your rod.

I generally go with 50-100% stronger braid then what I run with mono, so in your case 20-25# braid. I also like to run a top shot of 6-10' of heavy mono or fluro, it provides a bit of shock absorbtion and is larger in dia so easier to grab. In your case I'd say 40-50# top shot.

yep i would use 20#.like 458 lott said make sure you keep a good amount of presure on it while you splool it. i stick a rod through the spool and have my son press down on it while i reel the line on to the reel. i also use more of a criss cross pattern while i put the line on the reel this helps to keep it from cutting down into the line on the spool when you have a big fish make a long run. another thing i do is super glue my knots. just dab on a small amount after i tie'em like the extra insurance again'st slipedge

10-4 guys !

Going to get some poly-pro and wind it on tight.

This is the opposite of the way i used the braid for offshore fishing.
I bought a 1500yd spool of magibraid and put 750yds on each penn 50wide then used a mono top shot for trolling -when the mono was worn out it would be replaced.

I do a lot of snook fishing around barnacle encrusted pilings and I agree with the advice on braid, #20 or #30 isn't bad. I like it when the equiv of mono is about 12-14# test. One thing I've found is that when I buy a spool of braid and it lists the equiv diameter to mono, I am NEVER able to get that amount of line onto my reel. For example. If my reel says that it will hold 150yds of 12lb test, if I buy braid with a 12lb test diameter, I am not able to get the full 150yds onto the reel. Its always more like 130yds....I suppose it has a lot to do with the stretch of mono

Anyway, one thing I wanted to mention. You will probably want to attach a mono leader onto your braid line. Most of my fishing involves a leader of some length. For abraision resistance, I use Flourocarbon leaders. They are so abraision resistant that I am often able to drop down to much lower line tests for leader material. For tarpon fishing, 80# of Ande line used to be pretty much the norm...now with Flouro, I can easily get by with 60#. I like Seagar. It can be a little pricy, especially in the heavy weights, but it cannot be beat for avoiding abraision. Compared to regular mono its night and day.

While it may sound hard to believe, mono is the the most abrasion resistant line out there. The best thing to do is use braid and use a topshot of mono to fight abrasion. While braid can seem unbelievably strong at times like while trying to break off a snag, all it takes is the slightest sharp edge while under tension and pop. While it may wrap around a chain or other things its because they had no sharp edges or at least the line didn't touch them. Try wreck fishing or reef fishing and even a small 5 pound fish will pop the stuff. A barnacle, coral or rusty steel will instantly cut it under tension. Thick mono on the other hand can abrade and still retain a connection. Nothing beats a large diameter and a 30 pound leader of mono is alot tougher against a sharp edge than braid twice as strong. Sport fishing magazine has done a number of tests on this very subject many times over the years and mono is still #1. If you want to find out for yourself simply tie a 5 pound weight to the braid of your choice and lift it off the ground and touch the line against a sharp knife. Then do the same with mono and you can decide for yourself. I learned the hard way while blackfishing in LI sound and had to rerig dozens of times while everyone else was hauling up fish. Hope it helps. edit-fluoro is also good and forgot to mention it but in same class as mono, btoh are much better than braid.

Braided line is the least abrasion resistant there is. Use it for main line, but tie on a heavy mono or flouro leader.

On the one hand braid is the least abrasion resistant and on the other hand it is the most abrasive...

If it were not for fishing deep there is no way I would have anything to do with the stuff.

I have been using braided line (Spiderwire) for 15 years. Once you work past its "issues" it has no equal. I used it today to catch 12 Redfish. The line has been on my C-5 Garcia 6500 for eight years or more. It's as good today as the day I spooled it up. THe secret to using braid is to buy a reel set up for it.

I once hauled a +20" Speckled Trout over a rusted out sunken barge with the Spiderwire. Any venue I may find myself in be it rocks, shell banks or structure, the line is of no concern at all.

I think it is magic.

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At this point i'm about here ^^.?

Do not have the slightest clue what you are trying to suggest...

Having seen what braid does to human flesh when it is careless... And it usually is... scares the hell out of me if I might be held responsible.

It has never been even close to acceptable to me and I can list a lot of good fish lost because of it. Very few folks even get the option of using it on my boat...
art

Seen what happens with firearms do to human flesh when careless. Can't control stupid, I use braided almost exclusively but I do run about a 2-3' mono leader.

For competent folks braid is fine, but the number of problems I have had to deal with due to the stuff is just not worth the hassle, expense, and danger to let most folks use it. We deal with big fish that can make a thin taut line a razor... I have seen that...

On the one hand braid is the least abrasion resistant and on the other hand it is the most abrasive...
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Just saying that i'm still up in the air about braid vs mono .

When it comes to fishing to deep water, there's no way I'll go with anything other then braid. For that use it has no competition. I can literally the type of bottom I'm jigging in 300' of water with braid, and I'm not just stretching the line when I lift the rod.

I'm not sold on braid being the best for shallower applications. For coho this year I ran two setups, one with 30# braid, the other with 20# mono. The upside of braid is when the coho weren't biting, I swapped my mooching rig for a jig, dropped to 200' and was bottom fishing.