Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Rough cost estimate - tap?

Wow, maybe I am way low. I charge $20 per hole.

But up to $35 if I have to repair a hole that is off-center. To do that you have to go larger ,and cut the steel only in the direction you need the hole to move. If it's way off there have been times when you have to go as large as a #10X32 screw. Most times going from a 6X48 up to an 8X40 is enough. If the hole is farther off center then a correction to a #10 screw will cover it is likely you can simply plug the old hole that's in the wrong place and drill a new 6X48 in the correct place.

Cost can go up if there are complications (like super hard steel) but I don't charge the higher price to do the more difficult ones on them all. I just take them as they really are, and I treat people as fairly as I can. If it's fast and simply the cost is pretty low.

it is s simple job

Is your caps lock broke?

Gonna give it a go to try to clean it up. Based on the recommendation of a smith here I'll order a couple of quality taps from McMaster.

The hole is a through hole. It won't need threads through the runway on the tang but I think it should be fairly easy to stop as it's very visible.

I've tapped aluminum spacers added to 700 .223 mag boxes but that is the extend of my tapping experience. Hopefully it will be as easy as everyone says.

If the first one cleans up ok I'll decide about starting the second.

Thanks for the input guys.

Is the steel extra hard for some reason ?? This is a pretty mundane chore unless the steel is something special. Ruger stainless steel is pretty hard and doesn't cut well if you have a highspeed steel tool. Carbide drill bits are required to cut it to the right dimension before taping. I have heard the K98's, Edyfields and 1903's can have some super hard steel.

kwg

It's a stainless Remington Model 7 action. It's been trued, rebarreled, and ceracoated in the past....but I don't think any of that would have an effect on how hard the steel is. The guy did say it was extremely hard steel.

From recommendations and everyone saying this is an easy job I've got 3 McMaster-Carr Cobalt (for steel and stainless steel) 1/4-28 taps on the way. Planning to order some Tap Magic EP-Xtra later today.....if anyone knowledgeable has recommendations on tapping oil you're welcome to let me know if I'm messing up with the plan on that...

JC, I just drilled and tapped some 6-48 scope base holes, to 8-40 on a Winchester M70 stainless receiver. It definitely was not as easy as a carbon steel receiver would be, but with just my HSS taps, alternating between taper and plug taps, using lard for lubricant, I got the job done. I always use cobalt drill bits. Solid carbide drill bits always get chipped and are very expensive. With the cobalt taps and Tap Magic, you should be fine. RJ

JC, You're ahead of the game with new. sharp taps. As soon as the tap starts to bind STOP, back it off a bit, clean off the cuttings and more cutting oil. Have gotten through some pretty hard steel with carbon taps but all the back and forth can try your patience. pretty easy to get frustrated and snap a #6 tap (though I've come close with a ¼").

Bought a can of Brownell's Do Drill years ago and it's almost gone. The stuff just works and has the proper sulfur and oil machine shop smell. Don't know but I suspect any name brand is fine for your job. Had a gunsmith uncle who was fond of STP.

You'll probably be OK with that stuff, but the best I've ever used (and what I've continued to use) for tapping stainless is Moly-Dee from Castrol. It stinks like cow crap and will stain some materials (especially clothing) but works really well for tapping stainless.

I do a lot of machining on various types of stainless, so for me it's worthwhile to keep some Moly-Dee around for that.

Yondering,

I'd seen Moly-Dee recommended as well when I was researching. If I'd seen your recommendation before I ordered the TM EP-Xtra I'd have gone with Molly-Dee.


Finished the half done one today. It wasn't bad, especially with some threads already started. Took my time, little by little, backing off and adding a little oil as needed. It was tight and took some turning....I was tentative on the pressure and it took a fair amount. I was worried the tap was going to break with the amount of pressure I was applying. Had to pick up a file to clean up the edges on top but that was fairly simple...just screwed in an inletting screw so it was even with the top then knocked the edges off.

Tested fit and feeding and it looks good. Ground out old bedding in the stock and touched up where I'd opened it for pillars. Not sure when I'll have time to bed it but what I was worried about turned out ok.

Appreciate the input and advice!

Good job JC. I'm glad things worked out for you. RJ