gnoahhh, I'm probably being a little lazy here, because I think you've described this before . . . but can you go into your application method (including time between coats and any sanding) with the mixture and how many applications you like to use. Thanks!
1. I sand to 600x for an oil finish (320x if doing a varnish finish). Now's the time to color the wood if you're going to do so. If not, and if going with a simple oil finish, I then slather on a coat of the oil mix, wait a bit and re-slather areas that the oil soaked into quickly. When the oil is laying on the wood uniformly and not soaking in anywhere anymore, wipe it off completely dry. Let cure over night. (A quick note about safety- dispose of all oil soaked rags properly. They can spontaneously combust under the right circumstances. I put them in a bucket of water and then eventually toss the sodden things in the garbage.)
2. Now here's where it gets a little tricky. If you have stained the wood, it's very problematic to sand the finish and not burn through the stain. Lightly burnish it with 600x again, or use 0000 bronze wool. (Do not use steel wool unless you want teeny broken off steel fibers embedded in the wood that you won't see until they decide to rust on you, exhibited by little brown freckles.) If you do burn through the stain, touch it up with some stain on a q-tip or something, let it dry and re-oil the spot.
3.Repeat the oiling process. Let dry overnight again. That should do it, but you can repeat steps 2 & 3 if you think it needs it.
The wood will tell you when you're done.
Apply a coat of good furniture paste wax, and run down to the bar to show your buddies what a swell job you did! (Or take a pic and show us!)
If you want a pore-filled smooth oil finish, there's another step to undertake before slathering on the oil- stop sanding at the 320x stage, and brush on a coat of spar varnish. Sand it all off right down to bare wood without sanding the varnish out of the pores. Repeat as necessary until you have the wood sanded smooth and surface texture is at 600 grit. Kinda tricky and requires patience- go slow. You should end up with bare wood with the pores filled, such that it reflects like a mirror when you angle it toward the light. Now you can do the coloring (if you are going that route), and the oiling in steps 1-3.
A note on sanding: only a newbie or Bubba sands with bare paper held in his fingers. It's good way to make the wood surface wavy. Always use a semi-flexible backer behind the paper. Think big gum eraser or somesuch. (Auto body supply houses carry sanding backers for sanding on curved surfaces.)
Also, leave grip caps and butt plates in place when sanding so they are mowed down along with the wood to keep the job looking professional, and also to prevent rounding over of the wood edges that'll look dumb when re-installing the furniture onto the freshly finished stock. You can touch up the edges of those items (if steel) while you are finishing the wood. If plastic or hard rubber furniture is in use, I just leave them in place right through the whole finishing process. Now's a good time too to either replace all the screws or refinish them too.
Be doubly darned careful when working up to the edges that bear against the tangs, or anywhere the wood mates up with the action. Don't take off so much wood that the wood level is below the steel, or even worse- rounded over. Leave those spots the hell alone and oil-soaked dark if necessary- it's better than having the wood lower than the steel line.
Hope this helps. Feel free to ask if you need clarification. Buy me a beer the next time we meet!
