Hello the fire,
This was going to be a "what is it post" but I've read a bunch of good discussions on the forum and I believe I've been able to identify what I have.
I am in the process of trading into what I believe to be a 1982 made transitional XTR featherweight in 257 Roberts. The serial number is in the G162XXXX range. At first I was confused because the serial was in the USRAC range, but I couldn't find any USRAC markings on the rifle... until I read the border to the Winchester logo on the buttplate. USRAC is worked into the border on the logo. I didn't notice until I went back for a second look. Sneaky.
The clincher is I took the rifle out of the stock and it's stamped in ink SEP 27 1982 in the barrel channel.
Here are my questions:
I believe the barrel is supposed to be free floated based on running a piece of paper under most of the barrel. However, the left side of the stock touches the barrel for a couple inches behind the tip of the stock. The right side and underside of the barrel is in clearance for the entire length of the stock. If it was intended to be a pad at the tip of the forend, it should be uniform, so I'm assuming the barrel channel is not quite straight or the wood has moved.
My father's friend owns the rifle now and gave it to me to look over and even test fire to make sure I wanted it. Shots did start to wander laterally as the barrel heated up, although it grouped respectably if I kept the barrel cool and really took my time between shots. Once the rifle is officially mine, I believe the correct thing to do is relieve some of the barrel channel to eliminate the contact on the left side.
In the opinions of the experts here, is it best to have the barrel free floating, or would it be better to have a small pad under the barrel at the tip of the stock? I don't intent this to be a bench rest gun, just a whitetail rifle but like to tinker a bit and believe there's room for improvement in the stock.
If you are still reading, as another question, the stock has the hot glue looking bedding for the action and does not have pillars. What are appropriate torques for the three action screws? I have my handy Wheeler FAT wrench and figure this would be the perfect place to use it.
Thanks for any advice.
Jason
