I've used different bedding kits. Only a couple of times I've had issues. Both were with Brownells release agent. Though many times it's been ok too. Now I use car wax. The issue I've had with Brownells release agent was that it didn't release everywhere. Maybe they just had a bad batch, I don't know. I use acetone to clean the barreled action before I add a release agent (after it is thoroughly dry).
I like gel best because it's easy.
Other beginner tips if there's any bedding material oozing out because you've used too much clean it up before it hardens.
If you're bedding to a plastic or man made material be sure that the surface is clean and rough.
If you're bedding to wood, be sure the wood is clean and nothing but bare clean wood, unless you want to add steel screws (I've never)
I like to 'gouge' out behind the recoil lug so that much of the recoil area is bedding material. Rough is your friend.
I will sometimes put electrician's tape on the barrel from about 2" or 3" in front of the recoil lug to the end of the forearm. Then bed the entire fire arm. The electrician tape is removed and the barrel is free floating. This will seal the stock and make it stiffer. - depending on the application. Otherwise per advice on 24, I will coat the barrel channel with spar varnish.
Several points should be addressed here...
Acetone is used to clean surfaces you want to stick to the matrix agent whether it be epoxy or whatever... Why degrease something to apply an agent to keep it from sticking? It reminds me of nurses waking up patients to administer a sleeping pill???
NEVER use car wax as a release agent!!!!!!!!!!! It has a ton of silicone in it and it is very difficult to get rid of if you ever do any finishing/refinishing. Fisheyes are a major pain.
Barrel channels should be sealed EXACTLY the same as the finish on the rest of the stock.Spar varnish is a wonderful finish but if it is different from the rest of the stock it can and will cause issues. It has been addressed repeatedly here...
