Originally Posted by Vic_in_Va
Originally Posted by Chez
Originally Posted by Dirtfarmer
Originally Posted by Chez
I polished the firing pin and replace the slide spring with the lightest one I had. I hope that works and won't get to shoot it till next week sometime
I’m trying to figure how a lighter action spring is gonna help. Looks like quicker unlocking slide/barrel would make primer smear worse.

What’s your thinking on that?

DF

With a lighter spring the slide will move rearward with less resistance, quicker.

When the hammer is dropped, the pin will be forced forward, striking the primer. The pin will retract because of its spring (I will get a heavier one if this doesn’t work) and the slide will be pushed back from the force of the ignition.

With a lighter spring in the slide it will take less pressure to be forced reward which means it will be moving faster

The ignition is slightly under my control but my reloads are midrange and I don’t plan on changing that part of the equation.

I’m not a smith, did I miss something? I’m using what I have on hand and still looking for another pin spring combo just in case this does not work

The most effective way to control unlocking on a 1911 will be to increase the mainspring (Hammer spring) weight and use a Flat firing pin stop. This increases the mechanical advantage the hammer will have over the slide, keeping it in a locked position for a few additional milliseconds, allowing pressure to drop to a safe level. This will reduce slide velocity and frame battering. A heavy recoil spring will just slam the slide shut harder, maybe causing lug battering. Muzzle dip can also occur from a too-robust closing slide, then accuracy will also suffer. Recoil springs in a 1911 have minimal impact on unlocking.

The primer swipe you're seeing is caused by the very light firing pin allowing the primer cup to be extruded into the firing pin hole by pressure before the slide has unlocked, then the link begins swinging the barrel down, shearing the extruded portion. A steel firing pin resists this by virtue of weight and the increased resistance to inertia from the primer cup being pushed back by pressure. The extra strength Firing pin spring will decrease the possibility of a "slam-fire" if the pistol is dropped on its muzzle.
Originally Posted by kenacp
Your firing pin is not retracting fast enough. First, take a 1/8" punch and press the the firing pin in from the rear with the slide locked back. It should move freely with no drag. Maybe a bent pin, broken spring, or safety is dragging, maybe just some crud in there. If it's al free, put a heaver FP spring in it.

I had the flat pin stop in and just replaced with the rounded one after I started this thread. I'll keep it handy at the range and swap again if needed. I also have some buffers I can put in.

I'm ordering the wilson bullet proof pin and spring to match, worst case scenario I have spare parts

EDIT - Wilson wants $30 to ship one pin and one spring up to Alaska, I'll need to call them in the morning and see if they can adjust that for me...

Last edited by Chez; 03/21/24.