Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
Originally Posted by dennisinaz
You make it sound, Oh, so simple!


That's because it is. wink I have found that many pieces of WW 7WSM brass have dinged or out of round case mouths, hence the reason why I run them through the sizer before loading them. How is neck-sizing 7WSM brass different from creating a false shoulder in .300WSM brass? It's the same process. My "fire-forming loads" are every bit as accurate as my main loads, and I'm getting 3050fps from a 140gr bullet, aka .280Rem performance. Even my fire-forming loads kill stuff dead, and ring the gong with impressive accuracy. I was out shooting at a dinner plate-sized rock a month or two back at 1120 yards with my fire-forming loads. Didn't seem to have a problem smacking it. My full-house loads get that 140gr bullet to 3295fps, and those are what I typically use for hunting.

Works just fine for me, and all my loads turn in MOA or better accuracy. Brass forms just fine like this, and I'm on 4x firing one particular batch of FF brass, and it's still going strong (could use another annealing, perhaps).



I use a die that has no body in it- I just bump the neck maybe a 1/16" of an inch. I use no lube and it takes just a second. Forming the false shoulder requires setting the die up just perfect to make the brass snug on chambering.

If you are running your brass through your full length dies first then you are having to lube and clean them. That is a lot of time and work for accomplishing nothing. Try just bumping them with a tapered expander ball. Hornady makes the best one for that. Generally the only dents are on the very edge of the mouth- the neck itself is fine.

I just don't see the point going into the field with those half- power loads. If your fire-forming loads are as accurate as your real loads then you have some work cut out for you to find the better load. The fired brass should be perfectly straight- not something that can be said for the new brass.


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