Just got back from a hunting trip and have several comments:
1) NO, THE CANDLE METHOD IS NOT MY METHOD. I have repeatedly written that it was developed by Fred Barker, who wrote an article for Precision Shooting about using Tempilaq and hand-holding the case over a candle to develop an uncomplicated method of annealing that works.
Fred did NOT say it was the fastest method, but he did enough testing to make sure it worked. He also did NOT adjust the hold according to the length of the brass, because all finger-holding it does is assure the case head doesn't over-heat. Holding any case halfway down works, because the method "adjusts" for the length ad thickness of the case.
2) If you want to anneal faster a torch works better, but the color of the brass (either during or after heating) is a poor indicator of success. Both tend toward over-annealing. Any sort of temp-indicator paint works better.
In fact cartridge brass can anneal at 500 degrees if heated long enough. The 700-750 degree temp usually used is where it anneals fastest--but if you heat it too fast it will also tend to over-anneal and become too soft, because the zinc in the alloy starts to melt out. That's why the neck/shoulder area of over-annealed brass tends to change color.
Some factory brass is somewhat over-annealed, because a softer neck allows the brass to be loaded more times before it requires annealing. But that doesn't mean softer brass will be more accurate than brass annealed not as soft, more frequently.
3) The only reason for water-quenching is to keep the head from over-heating and hence annealing. If you stand the HEADS of cases in water it won't, and it also won't if you hold it halfway up the body and drop it. But there's no reason to quench the neck after heating.
