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It's been about 5-6 years since my last hunting rifle project. Guess it's time again.
This will be designed as a light weight mountain or Alaska hunting rifle for elk, moose, caribou and grizzly if the "need" arises.
Hopefully, 7lbs or less for the bare rifle with optics. No ammo nor sling, etc.
6.5x57-BR. Which will be a Lapua 8x57IS case, necked down to 6.5mm and shoulder blown out to 30 deg. Plan on using deep penetrating bullets such as 120/127/130 Barnes TTSX/LRX/TSX, 140 Part, Swift A-frame, Lapua 140 Naturalist/156 Mega or Norma 156 RN.
-Rem 700 LA which was highly lightened back in 1982. Aluminum bolt shroud.
-Calvin Elite trigger
-LW carbon fiber stock. Brand/model to be determined. Would prefer ADL/blind style magazine to keep weight down but if a solid argument can be made for a BDL style....
-Stock, scope and mounts system need to be such that a solid cheek weld is obtained with out resorting to some kind of adj cheek rest or pad.
-Proof Research Light Sendero or Sendero taper barrel at 24" in a 1:8 twist.
- S&K or Talley Light Weight low ring/mounts.
-Light 2.5-8 or 3-9 or 3.5-10'ish scope with BDC type reticle and/or CDS type elev turrets. Needs to be capable of dialing or holding over to 500-600 yds. Reticle needs to be capable of being used to hold off for wind. Needs to be bomb proof and capable of tolerate sub -20, -30, -40 below temps.
-As much metal as possible to be Cerakoted.
I'd like to get any input on my choice of components with any previous experience with parts which have been used/tested and any suggested components if you feel they would be better.
I'm an experienced LR shooter/hunter so feel 600 yds is an easy shot but also feel a LW rifle is not the tool for anything longer. It would be carried near daily as a rifle "in hand" through out the year, during the appropriate hunting season and a rifle needed to stop a cantankerous moose/bear.
Thank you,
Alan
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alan, I think you are making a mistake deviating so much from your recipe of success on other guns. my build would be this, up your weight a little bit. go with a magnum contour barrel. standard type stock, like a remington classic, save weight where you can but keep some weight with the barrel. I like about an 8# naked gun. Stick with nightforce compact optics, well you know why. nightforce works and its one less thing to worry about. I say this because you like me aren't getting any younger. The type of hunting that works best is glassing off ridges and being able to connect to at least 700 yards. I was keenly aware of how valuable an ability this could be when helping a friend on his muzzleloader hunt. We would see elk but due to the short range of the muzzleloader we would have to dump off the ridges after them. The elk would then move our stock was blown and we were out of energy and gassed trying to get back and find more animals. my rifle off the top of the ridges would have meant a dead animal, we dump off once to get the animal, hunt over. simply glass the areas, decide if the animal is big enough, get into position without dumping off the canyon, make the shot. Would you rather carry a heavier rifle this way, or march up and down the canyons and all over the mountain with a gun that is 2#'s ligher? carry the heavier gun less distance,  as to your cartridge choice its too complicated, just get a 6.5 creedmoor and be done with it. If I intend on hunting an area where hiking and packing in is a good idea. I have a tikka that is pretty light that I can take. For its weight that gun shoots better than it should and I have less than 5 hunskies in it.
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I think balance is going to be way off, with that heavy a barrel, and that light a stock and action. I would go with a lighter contour barrel.
Personal opinion, but I have gone with simple factory rounds for my travel rifles. Such hunts are always expensive, and I like to minimize the things that can go wrong. I have seen ammo get misplaced or be slow to show up. A rifle in an exotic chambering is not a resilient system.
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Just go w/the 6.5Sweede or the 260AAR. Use a 2.5 barrel and your regular stock. Scope it w/a 6x36 or 6x42 Leupold w/LRD and go to killin. powdr
Last edited by powdr; 08/20/15.
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Standard 270 700 in an edge. Talleys. Whatever u can afford for glass...
W
"I would build one again, if it were not for my 350RM (grin)."
MtnHtr
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I used to use talley lightweights exclusively but they seem prone to impact shifts when they take a tumble. Went with a bedded 0 degree rail and Seekins rings this year. More weight but they seem significantly stronger.
Last edited by 30338; 08/20/15.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
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If I were the OP, for the game and conditions mentioned, I'd duplicate my 9.3x62,lighten as much as possible,chamber it 30/06 and go hunting.
Last edited by BobinNH; 08/20/15.
The 280 Remington is overbore.
The 7 Rem Mag is over bore.
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Bob, I already have a very nice 9.3x62 in a pre 64 action sitting in an Echols Legend stock. ![[Linked Image]](http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c129/GSSP/Pre%2064%20M70%2093x62/AG9362.jpg) I now have a D'Arcy Echols Shrike stock built for the Rem 700 coming in from Charley Santoni of CS Sports. He's the gent who assembled my 9.3x62 after Redneck did the metal work. I'm going to have a chance to weigh it and handle it, deciding if that is what I want or something lighter with an ADL blind mag. Alan
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Alan: I remembered your 9.3....which is why I said what I did.  That's a great rifle for what you want to do;although I understand you wanting a "lighter" rifle, too. The Shrike is a great stock. Tickled with mine,although I have not spent much time with it yet. It's being bedded, will be a 6.5 Creedmoor, and done sometime next month.
The 280 Remington is overbore.
The 7 Rem Mag is over bore.
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My Rem 700 30-06 has a Rock #3 barrel, McMillan Classic Edge, BDL version, Leupold 6x42 scope. 1-inch shank, 23 inch barrel length. She weighs 7.5 lbs scoped. She really balances nicely.
You may save some weight with the Proof barrel, but I don't know if you'll save 1/2 a pound.
I think if you want to get close to 7 lbs your components are sound. You may be a tad heavier. If the weight is the highest priority I would suggest either a Kimber or a NULA action instead of a 700.
Edit: just re-read your post, and noticed the work on the 700 to make the action lighter. Between that work and the barrel you might shave 1/2 a pound.
Last edited by joelkdouglas; 08/20/15.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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It's been about 5-6 years since my last hunting rifle project. Guess it's time again.
This will be designed as a light weight mountain or Alaska hunting rifle for elk, moose, caribou and grizzly if the "need" arises.
Hopefully, 7lbs or less for the bare rifle with optics. No ammo nor sling, etc.
6.5x57-BR. Which will be a Lapua 8x57IS case, necked down to 6.5mm and shoulder blown out to 30 deg. Plan on using deep penetrating bullets such as 120/127/130 Barnes TTSX/LRX/TSX, 140 Part, Swift A-frame, Lapua 140 Naturalist/156 Mega or Norma 156 RN.
-Rem 700 LA which was highly lightened back in 1982. Aluminum bolt shroud.
-Calvin Elite trigger
-LW carbon fiber stock. Brand/model to be determined. Would prefer ADL/blind style magazine to keep weight down but if a solid argument can be made for a BDL style....
-Stock, scope and mounts system need to be such that a solid cheek weld is obtained with out resorting to some kind of adj cheek rest or pad.
-Proof Research Light Sendero or Sendero taper barrel at 24" in a 1:8 twist.
- S&K or Talley Light Weight low ring/mounts.
-Light 2.5-8 or 3-9 or 3.5-10'ish scope with BDC type reticle and/or CDS type elev turrets. Needs to be capable of dialing or holding over to 500-600 yds. Reticle needs to be capable of being used to hold off for wind. Needs to be bomb proof and capable of tolerate sub -20, -30, -40 below temps.
-As much metal as possible to be Cerakoted.
I'd like to get any input on my choice of components with any previous experience with parts which have been used/tested and any suggested components if you feel they would be better.
I'm an experienced LR shooter/hunter so feel 600 yds is an easy shot but also feel a LW rifle is not the tool for anything longer. It would be carried near daily as a rifle "in hand" through out the year, during the appropriate hunting season and a rifle needed to stop a cantankerous moose/bear.
Thank you,
Alan Alan, have you tried a Montana?? Scared to test your roulette skills?  . Personally, I'd think your 9.3x62mm is about the perfect rifle. Why would anyone need anything other than that one? Good luck with your search. I'm sure you will figure it out and it will end up being major eye candy...
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Alan,
bsa has a point. You could rebarrel a Kimber Montana as it has a lot of what you're looking for. If you like that sort of thing.
“There are some who can live without wild things and some who cannot.”
ALDO LEOPOLD
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Alan,
bsa has a point. You could rebarrel a Kimber Montana as it has a lot of what you're looking for. If you like that sort of thing. That was my first impression when I read his question as well. Good luck with whatever you choose!
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You 3 are making too much sense. I've always been thoughtful about the Kimber light weights. As an FFL, I can get a pretty decent price too. The reason I started with my R700 LA is i've had it for sometime and I thought it might be a good place to start. I've got some research to do now.
Alan
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![[Linked Image]](http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/xx220/ClarkM/WinM70270.jpg) I built this 270 that weighs 8.9 pounds with pac-nor 20" barrel, Bordon Rimrock stock, pre 64 M70, 2x7 scope, swivel bipod, sling, and ammo. I shot 9 deer with it. Then I lost 35 pounds off my belly by stopping eating starch. At age 62 I had to start buying skinny clothes. Right now I am building 11 pound rifles, and I have added the Darrell Holland field bag hanging from the sling.
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. -Ernest Hemingway
The man who makes no mistakes does not usually make anything.-- Edward John Phelps
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I don't think you will make your target weight of 7 with scope using the Proof barrel. They are not as light as a #2 Douglas or Benchmark.
Last edited by RinB; 08/20/15.
“Perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away”.
Antoine de Saint-Exupery. Posted by Brad.
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Also I would get the 6.5-55 and use Lapua cases and Forster BR dies.
“Perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away”.
Antoine de Saint-Exupery. Posted by Brad.
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Campfire Ranger
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Alan,
bsa has a point. You could rebarrel a Kimber Montana as it has a lot of what you're looking for. If you like that sort of thing. That was my first impression when I read his question as well. Good luck with whatever you choose! ^ That. Retube someone's problem with a #1 Douglas at 20" in Creedmoor & rock it hard.
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I don't think you will make your target weight of 7 with scope using the Proof barrel. They are not as light as a #2 Douglas or Benchmark. The Douglas barrel site puts a #2 24" barrel at 2-3/4 lbs. The Proof Research barrel site puts a 24" Light Sendero at 2 lbs 15 oz. Petty close.
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Alan,
bsa has a point. You could rebarrel a Kimber Montana as it has a lot of what you're looking for. If you like that sort of thing. That was my first impression when I read his question as well. Good luck with whatever you choose! ^ That. Retube someone's problem with a #1 Douglas at 20" in Creedmoor & rock it hard. I appreciate the thought. I already own two 6.5x47's so the Creedmoor is out and I like longer (24" minimum) barrels. I want 2900 fps, with ease, with 140 class bullets.
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Also I would get the 6.5-55 and use Lapua cases and Forster BR dies. Very tempting. Lapua 6.5x55 brass, for Lapua, are actually some of the less expensive Lapua brass. Same goes for the Redding or Forster die set. I love bushing dies. I hate case trimming and like sharper shouldered cases, not so much for the added volume=pressure=velocity but for the reduced trimming. It's hard to find "modern" velocity numbers for the 6.5x55 in "modern" steel rifles where folks don't adhere to the pressure limits of the older rifles. What kind of 140 gr class velocities are we talking about? Alan
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Also I would get the 6.5-55 and use Lapua cases and Forster BR dies. Very tempting. Lapua 6.5x55 brass, for Lapua, are actually some of the less expensive Lapua brass. Same goes for the Redding or Forster die set. I love bushing dies. I hate case trimming and like sharper shouldered cases, not so much for the added volume=pressure=velocity but for the reduced trimming. It's hard to find "modern" velocity numbers for the 6.5x55 in "modern" steel rifles where folks don't adhere to the pressure limits of the older rifles. What kind of 140 gr class velocities are we talking about? Alan How 'bout the 6.5-06AI? Should tick all the boxes, if you don't mind case forming.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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...... I want 2900 fps, with ease, with 140 class bullets. 6.5/284?
The 280 Remington is overbore.
The 7 Rem Mag is over bore.
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Bob,
I thought about building one of those on my 700 LA that I have sitting here. But am going to build my first "Campfire" classifieds rifle:
700 LA 25-06 sporter ADL walnut
Original trigger with bolt locking safety
McMIllan KS stock in Edge ADL
just bought SU35's 280 Rem factory takeoff
I'm thinking the plain Jane 280 might just fling a 150 Scenar pretty well...
“There are some who can live without wild things and some who cannot.”
ALDO LEOPOLD
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Marty the 280 flings anything well.... That sounds like a fun project in a great all round cartridge. Pretty tough to beat a 280. Always liked it.
The 280 Remington is overbore.
The 7 Rem Mag is over bore.
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So, i've got the Proof Research Sendero taper barrel and the D'Arcy Echols Shrike stock, for the Rem 700 LA, in hand and I just don't feel they are going to fit together.
This brings me to a dilema. An all steel barrel. I've run Broughton, Bartlein, Krieger, Pacnor and Lilja. All great. The issue is not so much which brand but which contour. The Shrike stock can take up to a #3, actually a #5 per D'Arcy but the one in hand is already cut for a #3. I run a #3 on both a 6.5x47 and my 9.3x62. For their intended purpose, they work great. I want lighter but not so light I can't shoot the darn thing a lot due to barrel heat and POI shift. I was hoping several folks here might have either 1st hand experience or 1st hand knowledge of how their light, #1 or #2 barrels stand up to a bit of sustained shooting; what ever that is, LOL!
I'm planning on 24". For me that's long enough for a bit extra speed yet not so long it's catching on tons of branches.
Alan
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The Shrike stock can take up to a #3, actually a #5 per D'Arcy but the one in hand is already cut for a #3.
Alan If you want the barrel to fit the inlet and still save some weight you could go with a #3 contour fluted.
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Didn't realize any barrel maker would flute a #3 barrel. I've been told by many barrel makers they won't consider anything less than a #5.
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A #3 Hart is about the lightest #3 out there and can also be fluted. Fits perfectly in my new macmillan hunter stock (sako hunter).
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utah708
Has the plan.
Build something you can buy ammo anywhere in the world.
Put a set of iron sights on it. Your scope can be destroyed.
30-06 don't sound very exotic but it is a great round.
Try to keep at seven or below. You will carry it a lot.
Shoot it a little. Kenny
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