Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics Why did this happen?

I am shooting a Remington 7600 30-06 carbine with DNZ game reaper low mounts. I originally had a Nikon prostaff 2-7x32 on it and never had a problem. I recently mounted a Leupold vx3 1.75-6x32 on it and even with the scope adjusted as far up as it can go, I am still shooting about a foot low. Anyone know why?

Sounds like you may not have started at the center of the scope's adjustment range.

From Leupold's site:
The elevation and windage adjustments of a scope are easily centered. Place a small mirror against the objective end of the scope. That would be the end farthest from your eye as you look through the scope. Make certain that the mirror is large enough to cover the entire objective. It must also be flat against the objective. With the scope's power selector ring set at the lowest magnification, look through the eyepiece as you would while aiming at a target. If the scope's windage and elevation adjustments are off center, you will see two images of the reticle (cross-hair). To reach the center of the adjustment range, simply turn the elevation and windage dials until you see only one image of the reticle.

I would just put the Nikon back on the rifle, the problem is obviously the new scope

Yeah, but isn't all the way up all the way up? If it can't go any farther I would still be screwed wouldn't I?

I really want to upgrade, but I might do this if I have to

Centering the reticle before mounting is only an issue with windage adjustable mounts. That won't correct a thing with DNZ's

Sounds like a bad scope to me.

JMR-
You are correct - brain fart of my part.

The Nikons max moa adjustment is 80 whereas the Leupolds is 42.

That is probably the answer. The 1.75-6 has little adjustment leeway compared to other leupolds. Normally works, but if the receiver, base or rings are off square they can cause additional problems.

Doubt if the scope is bad.

Where do the crosshairs fall when you have a bore-sight collimator installed?

Can you shim the rear of the base enough to gain the elevation that you need without damaging the scope or the base?

I have Weaver one-piece bases and Warne Maxima rings on my 760s. Not particularly attractive, but rugged and reliable.

Is that factual?

If you can believe the specs on their individual web sites. I typed in the wrong spec on the Leupold. It's 42 not 45.

Since you have Weaver bases you could go with Burris Signature See rings.

I agree with Ringman....Burris Sig rings are great.

I would order the Brownell shim kit and do what 260Remy suggested. Two of those under the rear base should get you zeroed w/a little room to spare. I have two rifles w/said treatment. powdr

So, what do you guys think it's worth if I was to sell it on here? It's a vx3 1.75-6x32, matte finish, and heavy duplex reticle. Been mounted on one gun and only had about 15 rounds through it.

Interesting how the scope almost always gets blamed for running out of adjustment when the problem is in the rifle action and/or mounts.

Your right. Came to the conclusion that this particular gun needs a scope with a lot of adjustment. Thanks everyone

It could just be the mount....I've had to shim Talleys.....with the identical scope. Next set of Talleys didn't require the shim....same scope and same gun.

Not Talleys. Everyone knows they are perfect coming from the factory.

LOL.

Talley did have AWSOME service about it: they sent me a replacement, immediately, and told me to mail in the other, when I could.

FWIW, you can cut shims from a coke can (.010"), and I've stacked up to two, to get a rig centered.

Sounds like you really upgraded there. Carry on though..

Did you try to center the cross hairs?You have to do it with the scope not attached to the rifle.

You don't think a VX3 is an upgrade compared to a Nikon prostaff?

My first set of talleys was a disappointment. The leupold vx2 I mounted yesterday didn't have enough windage adjustment with them. Centered the crosshairs in the scope and put on a one piece rail with weaver rings and it took 3 clicks to from center to dial in the windage at 100 yards.

Makes as much sense as replacing the gun. Just shim or get offset Burris signature rings.

Can I please suggest you check that you have the correct bases and that the rings are around the right way, as in the correct one is at the front and rear, the rear of the scope should be higher than the front.
To centre the cross hair, all you need to do is wind it one way all the way until stops, then wind it the opposite way all the way and count how many clicks it takes, halve that number and wind it back that number, do both, windage and elevation.

Cheers.

I'd contact DNZ and explain the problem before I'd shim the base. For some reason when we buy a new car we are more than willing to get the dealer to make it right but with firearms and related items we seem to want to fix their problem if in fact it is their problem.

I found this on OpticsTalk- a guy had taken it off an old Bushnell box.




This help?

I have my grandfather's Remington 740 and we have the rear scope ring shimmed for this reason. It wears a Leupold 4x Mountaineer.

How do you shim down using traditional shims? With the Burris Signature rings and eccentric synthetic inserts one can move the POI a long distance. But I digress...how do you shim down? Wouldn't you have to remove material from the bottom of the base to lower the ring?

You put a shim under the back to angle the mount downward.

It can seem counter-intuitive a bit. Sort of like working with a mirror image.

Yeah, that's what I've done in the past. I was referring to the diagram above. It draws a line to the front ring and says "shim front base for additional downward movement". That seems more confusing than just counter-intuitive. How do you shim a base and lower it at the same time?

Works the same as iron sights ie you move the rear in the direction you want the POI to go but you move the front in the opposite direction that you want the POI to go.


Mike

That makes sense. Thanks.

I should have just applied the mechanical logic of canted rails, however, the front sight - rear sight tandem of iron sights has two planes of vision. I was under the mistaken impression that a scope combined those two planes into one plane, but then a canted rail wouldn't help anything if my mistaken impression were true.

Shimming is only a bandaid to what is going on here.. Post up a picture.