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I need a rifle done. Thanks
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really pretty easy to do at home, if I can do it you can.
Ride well, shoot straight, and speak the truth.
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Kelly
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Yes you can do it at home. But there's a right way and a wrong way to do it.
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I've done ONE: in matte black, not perfect but learned a lot!
It's an older SAKO that was abused, looks great, three minor flaws (I'm not an expert painter!!)
And these zombies line up and eat from the media’s trough
Cowards CANNOT be free. Nor should they be.
~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
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Are you talking about basic metal work? That's pretty simple. If you want insane camo, check out custom gun coatings. He does amazing work. http://customguncoatings.com/
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Joined: Jun 2005
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Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
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Yes you can do it at home. But there's a right way and a wrong way to do it. and the wrong way is....
Ride well, shoot straight, and speak the truth.
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The wrong way is not following the manufacturers instructions! Do not lay the disassembled pieces flat, hang then and get a good, light mist spray, wait a few minutes, repeat,
Metal prep and cleanup takes a lot longer than the actual painting, (Seems to be the theme in a lot of things, more prep time than production time...)
And these zombies line up and eat from the media’s trough
Cowards CANNOT be free. Nor should they be.
~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
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Yes it is paint.......................
When the tailgate drops the BS stops.
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[quote=gemby58]Yes you can do it at home. But there's a right way and a wrong way to do it. and the wrong way is.... [/quote Most inportant thing is to degrease, degrease, and degrease again. Right way is to parkerize or bead or sand blast and then duracoat. I use this method on teflon, Gun kote, baking lacguer, and cerakote power coat and a few others. You can just spay any of the above finishes on but if you want a finish that sticks and last parkerize first and then spray and bake, sand blast is my scond. I do blueing, parkerzing both manganese and zinc, nickel plating, crome, all spray finishes and cerakote is the best.
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Campfire Tracker
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End of story. I've had a couple of guns profesionally duracoated and it just isn't durable. I've also had a couple of guns professionally cerakoted and it takes abuse like a champ.
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End of story. I've had a couple of guns profesionally duracoated and it just isn't durable. I've also had a couple of guns professionally cerakoted and it takes abuse like a champ. Most people apply duracoate by just spraying and baking, it holds up 100% better when you parkerize and then coat. But cerakote is far better than duracoate
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Campfire Ranger
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OP
Campfire Ranger
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Just matte flat black on the metal part.
Ceracoat would be better.
Anywhere where I can legally ship my rifle?
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Cerakote makes an air dry product now and its by far better then duracoat. We use a detail sprayer from harbor freight ($20) works AWESOME with the air dry cerakote. very nice finish and very durable. We clean all the parts with acetone and then We heat the parts we can fit in the oven to about 175 degree then use acetone to clean any oils off. This has been alot better finish than duracoate and anyone can do it at home.
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Campfire Member
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Most inportant thing is to degrease, degrease, and degrease again. Right way is to parkerize or bead or sand blast and then duracoat.
Please educate me. What is parkerizing? I thought it was a finish likely applied after bead or sand blasting.
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Most inportant thing is to degrease, degrease, and degrease again. Right way is to parkerize or bead or sand blast and then duracoat.
Please educate me. What is parkerizing? I thought it was a finish likely applied after bead or sand blasting. It's manganese or zinc phosphate, it's the coating the military used on 03A3, M1 carbines, M1 grande, M14 and the list goes on. You don't beat blast if you want to parkerize thats if you want a real nice finish you have to sand blast. Parkerize guns are real rust resistance, good finish for foul weather, use around salt water.
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Ok thanks for the answer. That is what I thought it is. J just couldn't figure why duracoat over a Parkerized finish.
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Just matte flat black on the metal part.
Ceracoat would be better.
Anywhere where I can legally ship my rifle? Most places that do it have an FFL. I know custom gun coatings got his FFL for that reason.
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Joined: Jul 2009
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Parkerizing isn't a coating, as previously stated. It is a crystalline structure bonded to the surface of steel which provides an excellent surface media to hold oil, grease, etc. Parker does little to prevent rust, but the oil, grease, or other coatings which it holds provide the rust inhibiting quality. Parkerized surfaces absent oil, grease, or coatings such as Dura Coat will rust. The greenish patina found on military weapons is a result of many years of aging of oils and greases used on parkerized surfaces and is difficult to duplicate.
Parkerizing is not necessary to form a durable bond between metal and coatings. Thorough de-greasing followed by Sand blasting with 120 grit aluminum oxide and immediately followed by whatever coating you choose will give good results. I have many firearms which have been Dura Coated several years ago and they have shown very acceptable resistance to weather and wear. Dura Coat also sells a product call Dura Heat which is similar, if not the same as CeraKoat. It is air cured, ceramic based and extremely tough. Light coats are the key, as it has more of a tendency to run than std DuraCoat, and is less expensive than CeraKoat.
Last edited by CAFR; 10/11/15.
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Parkerizing isn't a coating, as previously stated. It is a crystalline structure bonded to the surface of steel which provides an excellent surface media to hold oil, grease, etc. Parker does little to prevent rust, but the oil, grease, or other coatings which it holds provide the rust inhibiting quality. Parkerized surfaces absent oil, grease, or coatings such as Dura Coat will rust. The greenish patina found on military weapons is a result of many years of aging of oils and greases used on parkerized surfaces and is difficult to duplicate.
Parkerizing is not necessary to form a durable bond between metal and coatings. Thorough de-greasing followed by Sand blasting with 120 grit aluminum oxide and immediately followed by whatever coating you choose will give good results. I have many firearms which have been Dura Coated several years ago and they have shown very acceptable resistance to weather and wear. Dura Coat also sells a product call Dura Heat which is similar, if not the same as CeraKoat. It is air cured, ceramic based and extremely tough. Light coats are the key, as it has more of a tendency to run than std DuraCoat, and is less expensive than CeraKoat.
We just got a class 101 in coating, I made my job alot harder than I should have I'm glad I wont follow your advise when doing customers guns, been blueing, parkerizing, nickle plating, powder coat, crome and coating since 1980. If parkerzing doesn't offer anything to pervent rust why has my towing hitch hasn't rusted since it's been on my truck since 2004 and no I don't oil it either. Yes it hold oil but it also helps to prevent rust. Parkerizing isn't necessary to coat but last alot longer if done. You can'tparkerize stain so sand blasting is best but for crome moly steel I always parkerize
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