Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Basic wood stock refinisher

Definately would not sand the checkering off. Recut and see if that doesn't improve the appearance, if the stain/finish still bothers you then use Formby's Furniture refinisher to do what woodworkers call a "solvent refinish". No sanding or stripping, the original patina is retained, the finish is disolved and redistributed usually resulting in an improved appearance. Google "solvent refinish" for instructions how to go about this simple process, I have used it to remedy several different problems.

Half a million strong. "Give me an F..."

Go ahead and go through the process of hunting a bunch of questionable sources or notice that he with agrees my idea... this ain't my first rodeo...

You need to be more tolerant of the ideas of others and less of a domineering know it all. Checking out solvent refinish would provide an explanation of the process and additional instructions other than those on the Formby's Refinisher. How to determine whether the finish lends itself to the process etc., etc.. There are other sources than you, many of them just as expert as yourself. A little learning is a good thing, you ought to try it sometime, even though "it isn't your first rodeo."

why not take this as an opportunity to clean up the metalwork a bit and add a custom stock that uses some really nice walnut.

It would not bother me for whole stock to be dark like checkering. What's more important to me is a more uniform stain.

Huh...

Should have been more direct, I guess.

Your two posts on this thread alone are so divergent and short on actual advice that your value to the thread is questionable and would lead one with a clue to wonder when your clue might show up.

Your first post included a suggestion the OP use a water-based stain on a refinish job... you obviously have not done that before. Linking up places to go look for information instead of actually posting things that are true and might show that you have been there suggests you spend a lot of time answering questions by google.

Sending people out to research and suggesting they test various things also show you are guessing rather than knowing. It has been the pattern for you from the beginning, sorry.

Thanks Art.

Carry on Sir you know it all, the wellhead from which all knowledge flows. I won't waste my time jousting with you.

As previously said, I use water based stains and frankly would not go back to anything else. I find them great for blending light areas into dark ones and, if you don't like what you did, very easy to remove and start all over again. Of course the stained wood still needs a final finish to seal it from moisture. I don't do this for a living but I do like to keep things simple. As such I would strip the stock,repoint the checkering, stain with Birchwood Casey walnut until you get a desired shade and consistency, and then top it off with several coats of ProStock Gunstock finish. But that's just me.

There are lots of problems with water-based stains on wood to be refinished. Getting ALL of the finish out is required. That is mighty tough for most to understand and do. I spend a lot of time trouble-shooting issues and that is a very common one.

On new wood they are outstanding for all the reasons you mention, and more.

Art,

I defer to your experience and knowledge! It just looked like a beech/birch stock that I tried to "add" some figure to by using bone black and used FAR too much and it was a NIGHTMARE to sand out....in fact, I never did get as much out as I wanted to....just ran out of patience and probably sandpaper!

Chris

Chris
Yes, boneblack can be a lot of fun...
art

I have been interested in trying this outfit. www.finegunstockrefinishing.com

They've done two stocks for me, I have been satisfied with their work. Good communication and turn-around time. Feel free to PM me for additional details.

I have to say that my use of water based stains has been restricted to new stocks. I never figured they would be that difficult to use with a refinish. All my refinishes have stuck to stripping and recoating with one finish or another. I used to be a fan of G96 Linspeed, but found ProStock suited my taste better. Linspeed can build on the surface faster than I care and I prefer the "in the wood" look for rifle finishes. ProStock does that better for me.

Before tossing the Linspeed under the bus try it with a fresh bottle. Your comment suggests you had old oil that had started to polymerize in the bottle.

The other suggestion would be to change the basic application method from the single drop at a time to applying it heavy and wiping absolutely dry after 10 to 15 minutes. Oil used to be very expensive and hard to get. It was all going bad so rubbing in a drop at a time was what worked.

Thanks, but I've used Linspeed both new and old and prefer the other stuff. Don't get me wrong, I am in no way saying Linspeed is bad. But again, I find ProStock better suited to my needs. Although I do find Linspeed available in more outlets than ProStock. So that's a bit frustrating.

Try paint stripper and use an old toothbrush for the checkering. No sanding or steel wool. Than take three to four months for a boiled linseed oil hand rubbed finish applying every three days.

I agree with all the above except caution that BLO will give you no water proofing. On the upside you can top coat a BLO finish with a good hybrid for a final sealing with a classic look.