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Recommendations? I've been looking at Waterlox, what have you used that works well?

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If you are not going to cut on it polyurethane based sealer. If you are then sand it progressively to a fine finish and use warm food grade mineral oil.

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Fluffy is your man. Seriously. He's pure genious and artisan with wood. The pictures of his work on here are nothing short of amazing.


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I have used Deft to finish laminated maple workbench tops. I've used both spray and brushed application 3-4 coats with a Scotch Brite scuff between coats and final rub out with 0000 steel wool and paste wax buff with a micro fiber cloth.

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Scott, whatever product/technique you settle on, be sure to apply sealer to all sides and edges of the wood counter top. It will keep cupping and warping to a minimum during times of extreme humidity and dryness. I've seen very nice slabs of wood cup like crazy because the bottom side was never sealed. It doesn't have to be nicely done like the top, just sealed.


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I'd use something like Varathane that is commonly used on bar tops.


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A buddy was just telling me about this company's products yesterday: http://www.aeromarineproducts.com/
Varying epoxy thicknesses, form thin liquid to actually soak in and become part of the wood to putty type for filling. He's used it on a tabletop for his daughter. Filled splits that would be weak spots and they're now stronger than the rast of the wood. We were out to a new brew pub last night that had the same finish on the wooden tables and bar tops. Seriously tough stuff.



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Originally Posted by bruinruin
Scott, whatever product/technique you settle on, be sure to apply sealer to all sides and edges of the wood counter top. It will keep cupping and warping to a minimum during times of extreme humidity and dryness. I've seen very nice slabs of wood cup like crazy because the bottom side was never sealed. It doesn't have to be nicely done like the top, just sealed.


I hear you, I fully intend to seal all sides. I'm thinking a straight poly for the underside since I ain't eating off of that...


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Originally Posted by shootinurse
A buddy was just telling me about this company's products yesterday: http://www.aeromarineproducts.com/
Varying epoxy thicknesses, form thin liquid to actually soak in and become part of the wood to putty type for filling. He's used it on a tabletop for his daughter. Filled splits that would be weak spots and they're now stronger than the rast of the wood. We were out to a new brew pub last night that had the same finish on the wooden tables and bar tops. Seriously tough stuff.


I'm thinking when the time comes to 'refinish' that the tougher stuff will be more a PIA to deal with. Granted the other stuff will likely need more 'maintenance' it's also much easier to deal with/touch up.


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Good point. My buddy says it sands well, though. I have to see his finished projects.



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I'll still keep it in mind. I have about 5 weeks to go before the cabinets/countertops get here


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The butcher block tops we order are finished either with mineral oil,applied every few weeks, or if food is not to be prepared on it,a "varnique"finish is applied.
Just be sure they are installed correctly,so they can expand
And contract ,or it will warp or crack.


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Originally Posted by CharlieFoxtrot
Fluffy is your man. Seriously. He's pure genious and artisan with wood. The pictures of his work on here are nothing short of amazing.


Well,thank you.


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http://www.johnboos.com/faq.asp?s=r#kitchentops

Look here for finish info,boos is a big maker of wood ct.


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The plan is only with screws through an expansion hole in the cabinets. There will be 2 seams and the plan there is draw bolts.


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First thing I thought of opening the thread.

Originally Posted by Steelhead
Recommendations? I've been looking at Waterlox, what have you used that works well?

Thanks


Nuff said.






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When Waterlox needs redoing, just add another coat with no stripping and very little sanding. We use in home and the beach. I find it ideal. Call the company. Great folks but does have an until it dries


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Odor until dry


Last edited by tarheel74; 02/07/16.

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Originally Posted by Steelhead
The plan is only with screws through an expansion hole in the cabinets. There will be 2 seams and the plan there is draw bolts.


sounds like you will be just fine.


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