Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Savage Collectors Question about wood re finish.

So I used some kitchen scouring pad and got the old varnish off. I am gonna soak wood in atone overnite. Dry it out for a day or so. Then spar varnish. What do I use to apply varnish with? Thanks.

I have an article from the NRA that was published in the late 50s that recommends a coat of spar varnish as a pour filler and G96 Linspeed as the finish. I've been meaning to try the spar varnish for filling the pours for some time now so it's been interesting reading gnoahhh's instructions. My next stock may go that way but topped off with the 50/50 spar/tung formula.

I have a collection of badger bristle brushes I've been using to varnish for about 20 years now. Obviously that's what I favor. (I store them suspended in a solution of turpentine and linseed oil. Keeps them supple.)

Truth be told, I often cheat and use disposable foam brushes too.

Ok Gary. I got some Cabot Tung oil finish...is it ok to mix with the min wax helmsman gloss spar varnish? The Cabot Tung oil finish has mineral spirits in it already.....should I still add more to the mix? I could not find wax but instead Howard feed and wax. Wood polish and conditioner. Has petroleum distillates? Safe to use? My next refinish is a 99 g. Do I have to get all the metal off the forearm before the acetone soak. Don't worry about me having to return stuff I don't mind and neither does the store. Thanks John

Tung oil finish is actually a thinned wiping varnish, with god knows what added to it. I bet it's pretty runny? I would try mixing it with the varnish to thicken it a bit, since you're going for an oil finish effect anyway. Note: pure tung oil (or decent linseed oil* for that matter) isn't likely to be found in the local hardware store or big box emporium. It has to be ordered in from the outside world.

If the "feed and wax" has petroleum distillates in it I wouldn't use it. That kind of product is designed to separate housewives and cleaning ladies from their money. It gives a beautiful easily applied effect that is temporary at best, resulting in repeated applications to maintain the glow. That just means you're piling more and more petroleum based gunk onto the wood which breaks down the UV protective qualities of the finish and attacks the wood over time. Stay away from it if you can. Seek out a good paste wax. Johnson's is an old stand by and can often be found in grocery stores. Stuff like Butcher's, Trewax, Renaissance, etc. can be rounded up online- they're all good. Don't skimp on the wax phase of an oil finish project, for therein lies the only real moisture protection you're actually giving the wood.

*Boiled linseed oil you get off the shelf is the lowest grade oil from the linseed pressing/refining process, with metallic compounds added. Better to seek out artist's oil from an art supply store- it's pure. Then add a drop of Japan drier (from the same supplier) to speed its curing. Can be substituted for pure tung oil for the exact same effect/utility.

OK thanks! Gives me a reason to go bug the paint lady....thanks. by the way the acetone soak was impressive in cleaning up the splotches.

So I guess we are going high gloss! That way when my rhino radio goes dead I won't need a mirror to flash my buddies my location. Just use the old rifle. Better in lay a compass huh?

Now you're cooking with gas! (If you don't like the glossy end result, just rub it out with extra fine bronze wool, then wax it which will restore it to a warm glow.)