Home Forums Hunting & Shooting AR and Tactical Rifles 80% Lower and Jig Kit?

First bang gives away under radar... thats why you need a can or two...

Yea, but I imagine you would still need that pesky ATF stamp on an 80% can.

or a machinist friend.

But mostly, when it gets ugly, its going to get really ugly and not much is going to matter RE records or such.

Thats assuming you don't give in when they come for the first evil objects....

Oh no...Nothing that could be considered as illegal guys.

LOL cans have never been illegal

He was talking about ATF stamps so I was not sure what you guys were actually referring to. lol

Ownership of a can requires an ATF "tax stamp". A little piece of paper that cost I think $200.00 plus you have to fill out a form 4, and wait 6-12 months before you can pick it up.

I'd expect a polymer lower to wear less than aluminum, Nylon 6 (which most of them are made of) wears pretty well actually.

You can use anti-rotation pins to eliminate the pin hole wear in an anodized 80% lower.

Cerakote is a pretty poor substitute for hard anodizing though. The wear resistance isn't nearly as good.

I'm with rost though; the 80% stuff just isn't worth the time, unless you just want a project. Good complete lowers are the way to go for me.

Make your decision on the completed lower you want.

Go find it on armslist in your state.

Buy it with no paperwork.

Ain't really no justification for 80% lowers anymore.

Polymer lowers are much more fragile than aluminum lowers. If you're going to do an 80% lower, start with a 7075 forging. They do cost more than many finished lowers, but you'll have the satisfaction of having machined it yourself

I really appreciate all the advice Gentlemen.

I'd love to figure out how to machine one out... maybe after I hope to learn to rebarrel bolt guns...

It would be fun, but negative profitable.

Carbon fiber lowers are fragile but I think you will find these are as tough as any other polymer lower on a pistol. kwg

http://www.tnarmsco.com/liberator-80-receiver-blank-w-jig/

I've got a completed lower from those guys (for about 1/3 the price of their 80% and jig), and wouldn't recommend them to anybody I wanted to stay friends with. They aren't worth the $35 their lowers cost, never mind the FFL fee. I sure wouldn't pay $100 for an unfinished version.

whats wrong with their lowers?

Hi all,

While I have to admit that I haven't read all of the responses to this post, I HAVE just recently finished a 80% Polymer 80 lower receiver, using a drill press, 4"x3" XY vice, and a dremmel tool. I used a RRA lower parts kit.

The actual process was easier than I thought, as there are many YouTube videos to show you the process. A good pair of dial calipers, and a complete lower receiver on hand, for a visual and mathematical reference is also a good idea.

My opinion, don't waste your money. I was expecting the quality of the "plastic" (polymer) to be equal in quality (toughness) of the lower of my Glock 17, but it's MUCH softer. There is NO comparison to my Colt or Stag lowers, and while it will probably work (haven't fired it yet), I feel like any side-to-side pressure on the completed weapon will crack it in half like a plastic water pistol. I MAY just leave it unused in the safe, OR I may get a .22LR bolt/carrier/mag assembly and have an AR/22LR. I have a second one, that I think I'm just going to keep (unfinished) as a conversation piece.

That's my honest, unabashed opinion. YMMV

-TomT

Other than the hour or so needed to deburr everything and clearance the lower to fit your upper - their lowers hold a mil-spec upper off-center at the rear, because of where they positioned the recess for the rear lug. I sent mine back twice, the first time the replacement had the same issue; it's still back with them again, on my dime.

Like this; it rubs the bcg against the buffer tube:

Got it.

I think the technical term for that is "junk".

Thanks for the heads up!!

Interesting. I'll have to take a look at mine.
kwg