Ping pong balls at 20 yards......we put a superball from gum type vending machine on a wood screw and strung it up in front of the 20 yard indoor bales and shot it on the swing. You'd be surprised how often it was scared silly, and how many times it got nailed.
Those postage stamp sized florescent stickers for pricing? Yeah, one of those on a sheet of cardboard on your bag target, or on your foam deer.
Hard to see what's going on sometimes. Not everybody has same visual acuity.
Paper tune is your friend.
Good ideas all, for small targets.
Another I like to use........
White wooden golf tees. Hardly bigger around then an arrow shaft. They stick well in straw bales, foam targets, etc. I found a big bag of them at a dollar store or similar. If one gets nailed, I'm not out much.
Thanks for all the hints folks,
Geno
Yep, and as you get better busted nocks work well, too.
Well, now that I'm off the boat every so often and have a chance to practice......................
I better get to bustin' nocks!
Geno
The desert is a true treasure for him who seeks refuge from men and the evil of men. In it is contentment In it is death and all you seek (Quoted from "The Bleeding of the Stone" Ibrahim Al-Koni)
Rost, I have a few appointments up in Ft Smith next week, I'll take my longbow and arrows by the shop to see Big Eric and get his take on my setup, I plan to keep all longbow hunting inside of 20 yards.
I can shoot 60# plus, and well. But I can get in the groove with less practice, less risk of aggravating injuries......at less #.
Bought a 43# rig recently. Sold it. Too light and too diff in grip from my reg rig.
So I might again have a 60# rig.........dunno. If it was shorter overall length I'd be all on it. I like a 58" bow and the one I found is 60". No longer made.......can't find shorter limbs very easy.
Hook, my bow is 66" and wouldn't know how to reduce the draw weight at the same anchor point, I like middle finger in the corner of the mouth, seems the most repeatable consistent for me.
Gunner, here's a glove similar to what I use. Super soft, double leather, and no plastic between like the HH. I've never used the HH, as my guy sold this style and that's what I went with, no complaints:
I switched back to traditional in 1986. My last compound was a Hoyt set at 81 lbs, and I shot split fingers with a tab. Never wanted or ever used a release. Made my transition back to a recurve pretty easy.
I shot split for a while, and then experimented with 3 under, and it felt more natural to me, so I stayed with it. Puts the arrow closer to the eye, however, I never aim down the arrow, or gap shoot, etc. Focus on the spot, draw, shoot, done, to me the epitome of instinctive shooting. I can't, for the life of me, hold at full draw like the compound. The minute my finger touches the corner of my mouth, it's gone.
Originally Posted by gunner500
aalf, Three under in fact to me looks more inline with the true center of the bowstring, if that's the case, would that hold not provide a more equal tensioning of the limbs?
Probably/maybe, but probably not a consideration, it all goes back to tuning the arrow.
I've shot cedar in the past, but shoot strictly aluminum. Easy to tune with. Start with a long bare shaft in the ballpark for spine, cut off in increments, while adjusting nock position, brace height, and point weight. The bow maker should have a starting point for you in brace height. Speed is not a consideration.
BTW aalf, glove should be here this week, got her ordered, Thanks.
Only way to lessen # is to run ILF or change limbs or have limbs lightened by whoever made the bow.
66" is a longbow, or a long recurve
If recurve, that much working limb (length), proly have a longer than 28" draw length.
I draw 28.5" and have skinny fingers, so can shoot a shorter bow easily, even 3 under.
If your gap is still large and you're having problems shooting instinctive, even with middle finger at corner of the mouth.......you can lessen the gap by keeping the same anchor but going 3 under.
It feels weird, and higher arm position makes it feel even weirder. But try it, off and on for a few days and see if that helps.
If your arrows are heavy enough you might find the gap small enough to allow you to aim the arrow as a sight. That;s what happened with my 60# Blackwidow.
Made shooting stilted, odd feeling (compared to yrs of instinctive) but it was stoopid easy and allowed me to shoot my deer at 25 yards like it was nothing.
Still feels funky, but dang if it doesn't work.
Ya just never know. I did well with different system for decades, but injury forced a change.
If your recurve is 66" and you don't have a long draw, you might be able to do a "fixed crawl" to shorten your gap.
It's in that video I posted called "the push". Might be of help, maybe not. Worth checking out IMHO.
Since I don't run ILF and my bows are 60" or less in length.......I'm not messing with a crawl. I'll shoot unconscius gap/instinctive with my old anchor.....or use arrows as a sight and face walk (different anchors).
Thanks again Hook, this bow is too nice for a dumbass like me to fool with, I'll have to learn to shoot it as is, and will know the exact draw weight at my length on Wed, then can proceed from there.
Thanks for the hit on the youtube videos, will have wifey bookmark them for me so I can go back and watch em.
Edit to add, should have mentioned, my draw length is 31"s with my compound, Bow mechanic buddy set my compound out as far as he could and got the rest for me using the correct release, it works fine for me now even if my compound bow isn't set for an exact 31 inch draw length.
31 inch draw. Damn thats cheating, you are 4 inches or so closer to the game when you start than I am.
LOL
Gettting there is the fun part!
, I'll know much more about which direction I need to go with my gear when I leave the bow shop on Wed, can't wait to get in there and get measured and weighed, then have my arrows looked at for proper spine.
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