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I have some Hornady 308 cases that have crimped primers. What is the best way to remove the crimp?

I used a primer pocket uniformer which worked but I'm interested in how you all do this.

Thanks.


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Chamfer head in a cordless drill.

Someone on the 'Fire showed me one that is designed for that for the cordless drill, but I ain't looked into it.

Last edited by Steelhead; 07/18/16.

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A WAY, too damn slow for me, and I can do it $90 cheaper.


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I have a pocket uniformer tool with a bevel built in.

To hold the case, I drill a hole in a piece of pine that is just large enough to grab the case about halfway down. That holds the brass. Then I chuck the uniformer up in the drill press.

You can do a lot of brass in a hurry that way, and it's cheap.


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I just use a deburring tool.

Mine is the L.E. Wilson tool that looks like a tiny steel rocket; I chuck it in the drill press and can remove a lot of primer crimps in a hurry.

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Yondering,

I have been doing the same thing without the drill press. Thanks for the suggestion.


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I use the RCBS crimp remover chucked into a hand drill.



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Several really ideas.

I did some this AM by hand using a primer pocket uniformer. Worked but requires way to much elbow grease.


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Stick as many cases in one hand as you can and with the other do a burrrp with the drill/chamfer thingamabugger with the other.

You can FLY through them.


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The issue with a crimp is that in addition to the crimp ring that is visible by looking at the base, the crimping prcess deforms the walls of the primer pocket near the top. A chamfer tool may not get all of it out. The only tool that addresses the walls is the uniformer.

So after the crimp ring itself is removed, the primer pocket can be restored to correct dimensions with a uniformer.

You can also use just the uniformer but that is more cutting than the uniformer was designed for. I might use a chamfer cutter to remove the excess crimp followed by the uniformer.

The uniformer also restores the correct radius to the pocket as long as the chamfer isn't over-cut. I have done it several different ways including a Boy Scout knife, so whatever it takes to get the pockets right. The Scout knife works surprisingly well.

The Dillon swage is well worth the cost if you have thousands of rounds to do.

But with any of these methods, a light final touch with the uniformer always seems to find some errant metal.

Making all the pockets "uniform" aids consistent seating when that might matter.


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Chucked an RCBS chamfer tool in the drill press and did 2K 223 cases in a few hours, two handed; my hands were cramp tight for days.

I will never in this lifetime jack with crimped primed brass again.


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Originally Posted by RDW
Chucked an RCBS chamfer tool in the drill press and did 2K 223 cases in a few hours, two handed; my hands were cramp tight for days.

I will never in this lifetime jack with crimped primed brass again.


You and me both!

And you can get some great once fired non-crimped PMC Brass-(and other brands) for a great price here:

oncefiredbrass.com

smile

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Originally Posted by Boogaloo
The issue with a crimp is that in addition to the crimp ring that is visible by looking at the base, the crimping prcess deforms the walls of the primer pocket near the top. A chamfer tool may not get all of it out. The only tool that addresses the walls is the uniformer.

So after the crimp ring itself is removed, the primer pocket can be restored to correct dimensions with a uniformer.

You can also use just the uniformer but that is more cutting than the uniformer was designed for. I might use a chamfer cutter to remove the excess crimp followed by the uniformer.

The uniformer also restores the correct radius to the pocket as long as the chamfer isn't over-cut. I have done it several different ways including a Boy Scout knife, so whatever it takes to get the pockets right. The Scout knife works surprisingly well.

The Dillon swage is well worth the cost if you have thousands of rounds to do.

But with any of these methods, a light final touch with the uniformer always seems to find some errant metal.

Making all the pockets "uniform" aids consistent seating when that might matter.


If I ask you the time are you going to tell me how a watch is made?

Hit them with a drill then rock on.


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My old man hit upon that idea 45 years ago. He being a tool&cutter grinder (he made reamers, including chamber reamers), he made me a set to do both small and large primer pockets. I remember my fingers cramping like crazy until I hit upon the idea of chucking them in a drill. Easy peasy. Still have them and use them.

I will confess to using the primer pocket reamers I have for my L.E.Wilson trimmer now and then, because I have them and why not.

The L.E.Wilson shell holders work dandy for holding cases no matter what hand held system you use, especially when doing .223's. Saves cramping in the fingers.


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I use a RCBS primer pocket swaging kit with my press. I did polish the swaging head studs and put some resizing wax on the studs every so often as needed.


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This is a hand drill.

Hornady Primer Pocket Reamer

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Originally Posted by Dave_in_WV
I use a RCBS primer pocket swaging kit with my press. I did polish the swaging head studs and put some resizing wax on the studs every so often as needed.


i like the swage because it doesn't remove material. been using RCBS's kit so long i wore one set out. new set is the double with Large and small. wax the stud and it doesn't stick.


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I dreamed up a new method from reading posts and looking at the problem. Use 10 twists of a low angle case neck reamer followed by 5-10 turns of a primer pocket uniformer - done. If I had more than a couple hundred, I'd go the swage route.


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Originally Posted by Steelhead
If I ask you the time are you going to tell me how a watch is made?

Hit them with a drill then rock on.

Actually Steelhead I was replying to the op.

He asked how others on here do this task. You may have missed that, no problem.



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