My first experience with this. Shooting a Colt a Sauer 300 Win mag today with Nosler loading manual suggested loads (i.e.: no hot rodding) and once fired, in this rifle, WW brass. After my sixth shot the bolt locked down. Lifting it with a little more gusto and up pops the bolt and out rolls the case head.
I've tried my Dewey cleaning rod with a 30 cal tip and loose cleaning patch down the muzzle, hoping to catch the case mouth to no avail. Came in from the breech end with a stainless 1/8" wire bent to "hook" the case mouth....failed there too.
I'm at a loss now....any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
You only live once, but...if you do it right, once is enough.
That’s how I did it on a couple of case head separations. Run a bore brush that's a bit oversize for the case body in from the chamber and then pull back. Be sure not to push it past the case or it might stick in the bore.
Here's a video of a guy doing just that. He yaks a lot and wastes your time but finally gets down to it in the last few seconds.
Or if you want to get fancy and don't mind waiting, Brownells sells a broken shell extractor.
Gunnery, gunnery, gunnery. Hit the target, all else is twaddle!
First try Brownell's for a broken shell extractor. That failing consider blocking the front of the chamber from the muzzle and filling the remaining brass with Cerrosafe, or feeling reckless lead then gentle push back.
Finally of course headspace the rifle and gage the cases.
In the early days of handgun metallic silhouette shooting, just about every shooter that came to the line while shooting single shot pistols had an oversized bore brush in their shooting box. When the case head came out w/o the rest of the case, they grabbed the cleaning rod and pulled out the remaining case in seconds. You only had two minutes to shoot five rounds...
We all learned a lot for the early days of shooting 7 TCU's in contenders and whatever in XP-100's.
My first experience with this. Shooting a Colt a Sauer 300 Win mag today with Nosler loading manual suggested loads (i.e.: no hot rodding) and once fired, in this rifle, WW brass. After my sixth shot the bolt locked down. Lifting it with a little more gusto and up pops the bolt and out rolls the case head.
I've tried my Dewey cleaning rod with a 30 cal tip and loose cleaning patch down the muzzle, hoping to catch the case mouth to no avail. Came in from the breech end with a stainless 1/8" wire bent to "hook" the case mouth....failed there too.
I'm at a loss now....any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
How far back did you move the shoulders when you resized the brass?
Belted brass when new is notorious for excessive "shoulder headspace." Combine that with a rear locking lug action and it's a good bet the brass moved pretty far on the first firing. If the secong firing was on heavily FL sized brass I could see it going.
BTW, I used "shoulder headspace" so some belt lover could save the trouble of reminding me it officially headspaces off the belt.
This may draw howls from some but it works well but you must be careful. Find an easy out of the correct diameter to fit inside the case. Gently insert it into the stuck case and turn it just enough to bite the brass. Use a cleaning rod and bump it and the case out. I've done this for a few rifles over the years, mostly friends who didn't understand belted cases and proper resizing. I've never damaged a chamber but one has to do this very carefully. Don't get overly aggressive turning it into the brass or you'll go through the case wall and scratch the chamber wall.
Chronographs, bore scopes and pattern boards have broke a lot of hearts.
How far back did you move the shoulders when you resized the brass?
Belted brass when new is notorious for excessive "shoulder headspace." Combine that with a rear locking lug action and it's a good bet the brass moved pretty far on the first firing. If the secong firing was on heavily FL sized brass I could see it going.
BTW, I used "shoulder headspace" so some belt lover could save the trouble of reminding me it officially headspaces off the belt.
Mathman got it correct, when I reloaded my first belted magnums, I full length resized the cases and they seperated on me on the second loading. That's how I came to know about the 410 bore brush. I still have that box of reloads 40 years latter and the incipient separation ring is still visible on all the cases. It's one of my boo-boo reminders displayed prominently.
My biggest fear is when I die my wife will sell my guns for what I told her they cost....
They can be FL resized no problem, I did that all the time when I loaded belted cartridges. But it isn't necessary to move the shoulder of the brass very much, even when FL sizing.
You need to try a bigger brush. Both the .308 and .338 brushes are too small. .45 cal pistol brush might do it for you. You need to think case body diameter, not neck. Push it in until meeting resistance at the throat, do not turn....pull it out.
I am..........disturbed.
Concerning the difference between man and the jackass: some observers hold that there isn't any. But this wrongs the jackass. -Twain
Tried 50 caliber brush, 410 brush.....it's stuck good. Looks like a broken she'll extractor might be my only hope. Boy when I mess up, I do a good job of it.
You only live once, but...if you do it right, once is enough.
You need to try a bigger brush. Both the .308 and .338 brushes are too small. .45 cal pistol brush might do it for you. You need to think case body diameter, not neck. Push it in until meeting resistance at the throat, do not turn....pull it out.
Is this about stuck cases or sex?
Gunnery, gunnery, gunnery. Hit the target, all else is twaddle!
!