Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Food, Cooking, and Game Preparation Problems with my meat grinder

I have a grinder set up that I've built. Been using it for upwards uf 20 years. Started with a standard #32 hand grinder. Replaced the hand crank with a pully, and added a half horse heavy duty electric motor. Worked great. Not sure what the RPMs were, but it was fast. Couple of years ago, I decided to slow it down. Added reduction pulley set and it is now running at 75 RPMs. Have done several deer afterwards, and all good.

Now, it doesn't want to push meat through, especially on the second grind. I was processing the first deer of the year Monday evening. First grind worked, but not as good as usual. I can normally just drop chunks of meat in and off they go. Instead, several times, I had to use the stomper to get the meat started down the auger. On the second grind, it took the course ground meat until the auger was full, and that was it. Would hardly push any through the plate. I couldn't force it through with the stomper.

Took it apart and the knife blades seemed dull, though I've never paid them much attention (if it ain't broke, don't fix it). Sharpened them on 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Back together. Worked, but barely.

The inside of the grinder body appears normal. The auger appears normal. A few bright spots, but not worn. Frankly, the plates and knife don't look any different than they ever have, but that's where I think my problem has to be.

I'm thinking about replacing the knife and seeing if that works. Do you replace the grind plates whenever you replace the knife? Any other ideas? Thanks, Al

Sounds like dull knife,dull plate and nut that holds the plate could be too loose.

I would replace the plate and knife together as a matched set and mark the plate so that you're using the same side every time you put it together.

Not really sure without seeing it in action, but to me, if it's not "feeding" meat, logic dictates that it's got to be an auger problem ?

Is your meat partially frozen ?

Good luck.

Nut holding the plate on is good and tight. Auger feeds the meat right up to the plate. Take it apart, the auger is full of meat. I've never had to partially freeze meat. This grinder has has always worked perfectly fine with meat at whatever temperature the meat is when I butcher. I've probably used it on over a hundred animals. Mostly whitetail, but a few caribou, elk and mule deer.

I'm going to try replacement of the plates and knife. Will mark plates so same side is always against the knife.

Thanks, guys. Al

Just curious, does your electric motor use a capacitor? If so that could be an issue.

Not sure about capacitor. I can wire a house, but don't know crap about electric motors. I bought the motor, ran wires to a switch, then to a plug. That was years ago. It has always worked. Motor seems to be running normally. Sounds normal. Power to the grinder seems normal. Al

If it would help to see the setup, I can text a picture to someone who would be willing to post it. In addition to not knowing anything about capacitors, I also don't know how to post pictures on the Internet. My bad. Should learn to do that. Al

acy, If it has a capacitor it would likely be mounted on the outside of the motor body underneath a removable cover. They kind of look like an oversized 9 volt battery. A bad capacitor can cause a loss of power under a load.

Motor is a GE industrial- thermally protected for farm use. There is a housing on top. Covers a black cylinder about 3 inches long and 1.5 inches in diameter. Has two wires clipped to it on one end. Wires look to be about #12 size. I assume that is a capacitor.
Is there an easy way to test the capacitor? Thanks, Al

Just change the knife and plate!! I had a processing plant for years and they are always changed in pairs, distance and clearance are crutial on those things. messing with them on a stone only makes it worse

acy, Youtube most likely has videos on how to test the capacitor with a multi-meter. Sometimes you can look at them and tell if they are bad. If it's swollen or leaking anywhere then it's bad. It's pretty common for them to go south with age.

They are not that expensive to replace. It should have numbers on it that can be referenced or cross referenced. I think I got my last one at ww graingers. Most any elec supply house should carry them.

all the old butchers that know near me sharpen the knives and plates using sandpaper laid on a good flat surface. most have been using the same knives for 30years.plastic shims in most new grinders are there to make sure the blade makes good contact. you may try adding a washer.

Thanks all. Since the grinder seems to have plenty of power, I'm going to try the new plates and knife first. The plates stick out beyond the end of the grinder a good eighth inch. Pretty sure it's not a looseness issue between the knife and plate.
I'll keep the old set, and, assuming that the new set fixes the problem, work on the old just to see if I can fix it. For future reference. Al

Sometimes local meat markets have a company that sharpens and replaces knives, saws, and slicer, grinder parts. Ask them if they can sharpen your old set. I tried sharpening mine, but it did not work.
Sometimes there is a spacer washer that helps keep pressure on the knife/plate. It may need replaced. I had that on a Toledo Scale industrial grinder once.

I would bet money the blade and plate are dull. They are very easy to sharpen and last forever. There is no need to replace them.

I use a large diamond stone because it is true. Valve grinding compound on a piece of plate glass works very well for lapping both the knife and the plate.

Do not mess with sharpening the knife beyond lapping it flat. I have been through a number of commercial outfits and have never seen anyone concerned about matching knives to plates. If they are lapped flat they match, period.

Sitka deer, thanks for info on lapping the plates. After I lapped the blades on the 600 grit, they were noticeably sharper. Still didn't work right. Never thought about lapping the plates, too. Just brought the 3/16 plate up and spent a minute or so on the 600 grit. Probably only about 40% shiny. Will work it down, then check the 3/8 plate.

I'll pick up a 4 or 5 pound cheap roast and see what happens before I buy new. It's bow season and I need this dang thing running.......

If both plates dulled at the same time it might be the motor as was noted before... and dull plates would put more load on and cause the motor to go bad.

Motor brushes worn?

should be a zinc washer at the back bearing surface, they wear out and everything else is dull

Did not realize there was a thrust bearing on the #32 grinders, but you are correct. Found a schematic with Google and then found plastic, zinc, and steel options.

Probably the exact right answer...