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Acouple weeks ago I drove the 92 Toyota pickup to work. I shut it off and came back 10 minutes later and it would not crank.

A battery cable had come loose. I fixed the cable and attempted to start the pickup. It spins, but will not fire. I have good spark at the plugs, I have compression, I have fuel pressure at the fuel rail, but it will not fire. Not even with a shot of ether, which really confuses me.

Any suggestions on what might prevent the injectors from pulsing on this model?

thanks,


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This is a long shot, but look at the oxygen sensor. See if the wires going to it have gotten on the exhaust pipe.





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with spark and a shot of ether you have no fire? that is weird!
wish i had something to advise you but ......
have been running 22r's and re's for 40 years or more and haven't
a clue.
all it takes for a engine to run is gas, air, and spark so this is strange.
good luck
DS


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come to think about it , sometimes plugs will not spark under compression if your primary electrical supply is weak. add another battery and see.


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come to think about it , sometimes plugs will not spark under compression if your primary electrical supply is weak. add another battery and see.


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stutter!


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What deerstalker said. I have had a few problems with coil/igniter on these.

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Originally Posted by Oldman03
This is a long shot, but look at the oxygen sensor. See if the wires going to it have gotten on the exhaust pipe.





nope, we were all over under the truck trying to figure out if the fuel pump was working. The wires to the o2 sensor were intact.

The answer to the fuel pump? I finally discovered, it is relayed through the mass airflow sensor. The fuel pump runs in start, and then continues to run if it gets a signal from the MAF. Keeps the fuel pump from running after the engine dies, even if he key is on.

I took it into a local shop a week ago in hopes they would have more instruments than available under my shade tree. But it has not made it inside the door yet.


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How much voltage was on the battery when you turned the key?


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Originally Posted by kenster99
What deerstalker said. I have had a few problems with coil/igniter on these.


The battery is pushing 13.4/13.6 volts. I already replaced the ignition control module ($250) as I have seen them fail on several other Toyota pickups or Celicas and was sure that was the problem when I saw that I had fuel flow.

My first car in 78 was a 71 Celica wih an 8RC. Since then I have owned five different Toyota pickups, and a half dozen Celicas. Several with the 22R or 22RE. This is the first time I ever needed professional help to make one run.


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Originally Posted by Steelhead
How much voltage was on the battery when you turned the key?


13.4/13.6 wih the key on.

I even tried tow starting it which would have aleviated the draw from he starter motor.

It has to be something in the relay system or electronics which control the injector pulses.


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Does the motor turn and not just the starter?

Gotta wonder timing belt or does it have a chain?


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It has a steel timing chain. If it were broke, I would not have compression.

The truck was running 80 MPH on the freeway on the way to work. It was purring like a kitten when I turned the key off.

Then never started again.


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When you pull a plug and put it on the block, with the wire still on it, do you actually see a spark when someone else cranks it?


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Originally Posted by Jacques_La_Rami
When you pull a plug and put it on the block, with the wire still on it, do you actually see a spark when someone else cranks it?


+1

It's so easy to imagine something is complicated, but you must check the simple things first.


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Oh yes, a good strong spark.


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One can crank the motor for a good long time, but there is never a scent of gasoline in the exhaust pipe. Thus my theory that the injectors are not pulsing.


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I have seen 'good spark' on a plug grounded outside the cylinder but for whatever reason put it back in the engine and weak ignition.



Once this summer on a little VW liquid cooled 4 cylinder in Spra Coupe.

Once last Tuesday on a 5hp Briggs(on little Pacer water pump).


Most recent fail to fire was on a '77 IH grain truck. 404?


Weak battery. Just enough juice to spin it over and get it to pop off but not enough to keep it going?

My dad thought it might be the condenser. Pulled the distributor cap and WTF?

No points, no condenser.

Find the ignition module on the fire wall, electronic.

Jumped it and it started easy.

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Have you tried jump starting it?


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Well if it's got spark and fuel through the pump, it must be something going on with the injection, probably not the injectors plugged or bad, or it wouldn't of run so well before you shut it off. More than likely a chip, circuit board, brain problem (sometimes jumping can cause these). Probably not timing, it'd probably fire just not run or run rough. Sounds to me like you should get it to a shop with a diagnostic computer. I miss the days when you could trouble shoot in the field ( more than it sounds like you already have), and or Obama-rig a solution to get you back to town. I once siphoned gas from my tank to fill my window washer reservoir, reroute the lines from it to the top of my carb, and keep priming the carb with the squirt button on the dash laugh to keep from walking 80 some miles out of the middle of nowhere after a full day of antelope hunting that ended with a bad fuel pump. Now days it usually is a circuit board, or chip, and you can't fix it any easier than you could a broken cell phone.


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