Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Toyota mechanics, 22RE will not fire

Acouple weeks ago I drove the 92 Toyota pickup to work. I shut it off and came back 10 minutes later and it would not crank.

A battery cable had come loose. I fixed the cable and attempted to start the pickup. It spins, but will not fire. I have good spark at the plugs, I have compression, I have fuel pressure at the fuel rail, but it will not fire. Not even with a shot of ether, which really confuses me.

Any suggestions on what might prevent the injectors from pulsing on this model?

thanks,

This is a long shot, but look at the oxygen sensor. See if the wires going to it have gotten on the exhaust pipe.

with spark and a shot of ether you have no fire? that is weird!
wish i had something to advise you but ......
have been running 22r's and re's for 40 years or more and haven't
a clue.
all it takes for a engine to run is gas, air, and spark so this is strange.
good luck
DS

come to think about it , sometimes plugs will not spark under compression if your primary electrical supply is weak. add another battery and see.

come to think about it , sometimes plugs will not spark under compression if your primary electrical supply is weak. add another battery and see.

stutter!

What deerstalker said. I have had a few problems with coil/igniter on these.

nope, we were all over under the truck trying to figure out if the fuel pump was working. The wires to the o2 sensor were intact.

The answer to the fuel pump? I finally discovered, it is relayed through the mass airflow sensor. The fuel pump runs in start, and then continues to run if it gets a signal from the MAF. Keeps the fuel pump from running after the engine dies, even if he key is on.

I took it into a local shop a week ago in hopes they would have more instruments than available under my shade tree. But it has not made it inside the door yet.

How much voltage was on the battery when you turned the key?

The battery is pushing 13.4/13.6 volts. I already replaced the ignition control module ($250) as I have seen them fail on several other Toyota pickups or Celicas and was sure that was the problem when I saw that I had fuel flow.

My first car in 78 was a 71 Celica wih an 8RC. Since then I have owned five different Toyota pickups, and a half dozen Celicas. Several with the 22R or 22RE. This is the first time I ever needed professional help to make one run.

13.4/13.6 wih the key on.

I even tried tow starting it which would have aleviated the draw from he starter motor.

It has to be something in the relay system or electronics which control the injector pulses.

Does the motor turn and not just the starter?

Gotta wonder timing belt or does it have a chain?

It has a steel timing chain. If it were broke, I would not have compression.

The truck was running 80 MPH on the freeway on the way to work. It was purring like a kitten when I turned the key off.

Then never started again.

When you pull a plug and put it on the block, with the wire still on it, do you actually see a spark when someone else cranks it?

+1

It's so easy to imagine something is complicated, but you must check the simple things first.

Oh yes, a good strong spark.

One can crank the motor for a good long time, but there is never a scent of gasoline in the exhaust pipe. Thus my theory that the injectors are not pulsing.

I have seen 'good spark' on a plug grounded outside the cylinder but for whatever reason put it back in the engine and weak ignition.



Once this summer on a little VW liquid cooled 4 cylinder in Spra Coupe.

Once last Tuesday on a 5hp Briggs(on little Pacer water pump).


Most recent fail to fire was on a '77 IH grain truck. 404?


Weak battery. Just enough juice to spin it over and get it to pop off but not enough to keep it going?

My dad thought it might be the condenser. Pulled the distributor cap and WTF?

No points, no condenser.

Find the ignition module on the fire wall, electronic.

Jumped it and it started easy.

Have you tried jump starting it?

Well if it's got spark and fuel through the pump, it must be something going on with the injection, probably not the injectors plugged or bad, or it wouldn't of run so well before you shut it off. More than likely a chip, circuit board, brain problem (sometimes jumping can cause these). Probably not timing, it'd probably fire just not run or run rough. Sounds to me like you should get it to a shop with a diagnostic computer. I miss the days when you could trouble shoot in the field ( more than it sounds like you already have), and or Obama-rig a solution to get you back to town. I once siphoned gas from my tank to fill my window washer reservoir, reroute the lines from it to the top of my carb, and keep priming the carb with the squirt button on the dash to keep from walking 80 some miles out of the middle of nowhere after a full day of antelope hunting that ended with a bad fuel pump. Now days it usually is a circuit board, or chip, and you can't fix it any easier than you could a broken cell phone.

1. Check to make sure resistance on the TPS is right.
2. Check ignitor and coil. I've seen them have spark, but also have a bad ignitor and vehicle wouldn't start.
3. Cold start injector may be bad.
4. Check IGF and NE signals. These are from the ignition and RPM input signal. ECU needs to be reading these before it will operate the injectors.
5. Make sure grounds are good to the ECM.
6. Familiarize yourself with the circuit opening relay, which relies on signal from the ignition switch and AFM. However, this controls the fuel pump and you state you are getting fuel. This is probably not the problem.

First, open your OBDI diagnostic port and put a jumper wire or paperclip between TE1 an E1. Get in the cab and turn the key on but don't start it, The CEL will start flashing a code. Count the flashes and then after the pause, count again. Million places on the net will give you the code. If there are no codes, check your grounds, it must have all 5 or it will not run. Also check your EFI fuse. Bet your EFI ground is either loose or broken. If you need help, PM me and I will send you my phone number. I am the proud owner of a 1990 Pickup that has been rebuilt from the ground up.

That's a REALLY good way to start a gas fire when gas sprays out of the plug hole. I've seen it happen.
Instead, pull the wire and use a screwdriver to jump it to the block while the plug is still screwed in.

Idaho Shooter, Try a magnum primer!!! Sorry, couldn't resist. memtb

Will it fire right up when you jump it?

If so, good chance it just needs a new battery.

BTDT.

I recently changed the spark plugs. We used one of the old plugs to check spark while the four new ones were still in the cylinder head.

(

no, jumper cables, 200 amp rate charger/starter, or towing, none of the above will fire the engine.

Bsa1917hunter and Ksmih, I hink you guys are getting to my problem.

I did check every fuse in the rig and none were open. The truck is at the shop now. I will see what they say.

The mechanic was talking about rebuilding the injectors. Hey wait a minute. It was running great and now it will not start, that is not a faulty injector. They did not all fail simultaneously while the ignition was turned off.

It has to be something stupid like a failed relay or a bad ground, but I did not have the instruments to find it.

I will have to google CEL to find out what and where it is.

ETA: Oh Duh, check engine light.

Been runnuig GM products too long with the "sevice engine soon" SES indicator.

majority of auto electrical problems are a bad ground

Stethoscope to listen to the injectors while cranking it is helpful, or a noid light to see if they're getting a pulse. Spark and fuel pressure won't make it run if the injectors aren't opening. Just a thought, but if the battery cable was loose, voltage spikes could have damaged the ECU. Hopefully not the case, but would account for no signal to the injectors.

Not a Toyota guru at all, but lots of vehicles use fusible links that are in the harness, some at the battery, others in line somewhere. A wiring schematic should show you their locations. Blown fusible links have stymied many techs, and will continue to do so..

You are getting a lot of suggestions here, some good & some just guessing.

If you have fuel pressure & compression & good spark and you have sprayed ether in the manifold properly...then it must start unless you have a clogged exhaust-which I doubt since you said it was previously purring-, or a washed (flooded) engine.

Amateur way to check components:

Spark - with a screwdriver to ground upon cranking must be steady and blue in color & arc minimum of 1/2" space.

Fuel pressure - remove line to rail, place in a bowl or can, have someone crank for 5-10 seconds & flow should stream steady & uninterrupted.

Compression - somewhere near 120#/cylinder for each of the four. If good, probably not flooded and timing chain not broken. However, chains can jump a tooth too! If suspect flooded engine, remove all plugs/ crank engine for 5 secs/ squirt a shot of motor oil in each cylinder/ replace plugs & restart.

My suggestion...check juice at each injector connection if everything else I said is ok. Someone cranks while you have test lamp on + side of disconnected injector connector. Bright blinking light on each should show. If no light, bad wiring or PCM. Pcm can blow if you originally jumped battery backwards (when you said terminal was loose).

Go over all these steps honestly again & you should find your problem easily.

Hope you do well. I'll try to check back after my bowhunting trip.

-Ken

I dont understand the motor running on ether, but have you checked the throttle position sensor?

Also, check to make sure the air intake hose to the throttle body is on. Mine will turn over but will not crank if the air hose is off the throttle body. Put the air hose back on and it cranks right up. Check the air tube coming from the air filter across to the throttle body.

I wish you could have waited before you sent it to the shop. Just got back from deer hunting last night and my son got his first deer so was worn out and didn't want to type. These motors are very easy to work on and troubleshoot and is why I have kept my 1990 and trust it to take me anywhere. The grounds that I remember off the top of my head are at the power steering pump,(EFI ground which is probably your problem) back of motor to fire wall, lower intake plenum, battery, lower passenger side of motor. They will not run without all the grounds. You need to learn how to jump your OBDI port so you can trouble shoot for yourself. You can use the port to trick the computer into all kinds of things.
These motors have weird nuances like heavy brake will cut the fuel pump off and shut the MAF gate, high idle will make the motor lope when brake applied. Bad TPS position will cause a lope between 2K and 2.5K RPM. I have dealt with all of it at one time or another.
If you plan on keeping it, let me know. There are certain things you can do to make life a lot easier on yourself like installing a LCE in line fuel pressure gauge.

It is not your injectors so don't let him charge you for a rebuild. They just don't all go bad at once and is something that degrades over time. If you ever need them rebuilt, remove them yourself and send them to Witch Hunter for rebuild and full pre work and post work flow charts.

Thanks, I will keep that in mind.

No ground on the ps pump, I have no power steering, nor AC, nor PW. She is as basic as could be had in 92.

I recently purchased this truck with 72k on the odometer. I got it to 75k before this trouble.

Yes, I intend to keep it. I drive 25 mi each way to work, and have just over six years to retirement. I am really expecting this Toyota to get me through.

Oh,and congrat to your son on his deer. That is a milestone to any father/son pair.

I got a used 1988 Toyota pickup with the 22RE engine. Beat the hell out of it for 5 years and then sold it. Big mistake .... I'm sure that truck is still working hard.

Checked the gas? Fill her up! 😜

Ksmith is hitting the nail on the head. It IS NOT the injectors. Don't let those guys rebuild them and find out it's not the problem. I've owned multitudes of 22R and 22RE's. I've worked on them and rebuilt them from the ground up too. Hell of a good engine and usually flawless for 300,000+ miles. I hope they find out it's something simple, so they don't charge you a ton for diagnostics. Good luck with it. Should be something that will make you laugh because it's so simple. I know it can be damn frustrating when it's like this though. Reminds me of my 2004 GMC when the 4x4 wasn't working right. You probably know that scenario too since you said you deal with GM's... It's amazing what a single ground wire will do to a computer system on these newer vehicles...

Exactamundo. Good word of advice right there...

Incidentally, I am parked in my big rig in San Antonio, have a load of Bridgestone tires.
Tomorrow morning will deliver to the big Toyota plant.

Every Tacoma in North America is built at this plant.
Every Tundra in the world is built here.

You left out plugged EGR valve too brother. Those go bad and you get a weird surge. Almost like the bad TPS. These engines are known to run lean too. I always adjust the AFM MAF gear too, so the engine runs a little better. It helps when you go bigger cam and valves for more air/fuel ratio/flow....

Tell me more about bigger cam and valves. I would like to pump the motor to 120 hp instead of the rated 105 hp without using a turbo. I have a spare 22RE from an 82 Celica to work with while I drive the truck.

Or I have heard that the new 2.7 from the Tacoma is a plug and play replacement for the 22RE, and it is rated at 150 hp with a stronger torque curve. Any thoughts?

Look up enginbuilder. He grinds one that I've used in a few 22RE's. It's the 270/430 I believe. I also used the proflow (now referred to as the PRO street/RV performance head from EPN) performance head with oversized stainless valves and larger ports, decked the block and bored it 30 over (you don't want to go more than 40 over because it leaves the cylinder walls too thin), a northwest offroad header, which is one of the best headers I've used on these 22RE engines. This engine loved to be revved up... I'm not a mechanic, I just like tinkering on stuff. Here's a 318 that thought it was a 340... . Well, in all fairness, it had a lot of 340 parts in it...





I also did the body work and paint on this old beast:




My Toyota pics were on a different computer and never got saved....

Thanks for the information!

That is a fine looking old Dodge. I am envious.

My main ride around here for about ten years was a 75 w200 with a 440, 727, 4.10 gears, and full time 4x4. It was a stump puller.

Maybe the fuel pump took a dump? Pressure at the rail doesn't necessarily mean you have enough pressure to really push the injectors.

If its got good fire and you tried starting fluid, Its out of time. Is it computer controlled ignition?

Have you checked to see if your rotor is pointing at the #1 terminal on your distributor?
Crank your engine by hand until the #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke, your rotor will point to the terminal if your timing chain is ok
youtube for directions, good luck.

The engine ran fine, you changed the plugs and now it doesn't run. So everything plug related would be the first place I'd look. I've actually see this before where the clips inside the plug boot are so loose that they fail to make good contact with the spark plug. Grab a plug boot on a plug and wiggle it around. Does it feel tight? Can you feel a looseness of the clip inside the boot in relation to the plug? Time for new plug wires. Also, in handling your spark plug wires you may have increased the ohms resistance of the wire. Check with a volt/ohm meter (cheap to buy) and see if this isn't your problem. Here's how to check them - Click Here

I aint no mechanic but your problem sounds very close
to a problem I hada decade ago with my old
Chevy S-10 4X4 V-6 throttle body fuel injection.
I have drove only Toyotas for YEARS then got
a wild hair up my butt and bought the little
chevy cheap ! LOW miles under 30 K no AC or radio
just a plain 4X4 for daily driver and hunting.
Right after it started exactly what yours is doing
now!
My mechanic was replacing the O-2 sensor.Map Sensor
every other month!
It would run alright for a little while then the check engine lite would pop on and it would not fire or
stranger still would run but not idle at all!
I had to slip the clutch and rev the hell out of it
red light to red light.
I bought 7 different computers from the parts house
to replace the factory computer that came on it!
A Chevy factory rep told me finally told me after all
this that it must be a dead short in the wiring SOME WHERE
in the body and I would have to pay them for a frame off
search to find it.
Sold the sum bitch at a LOSS to junk yard next day!
Then drove over 300 miles from Alabama to Tenn.
to buy a 2002 Tacoma 4X4 2.7 4 cyl. reg cab auto air
with 37 K never off road!

Thanks Walt.

But no, that ain't it. I changed the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor about ten days before it died, and drove it every day in between.

My issues all began with a faulty battery connection, and continued after I repaired the battery cable.

The battery is located next to the air hose that goes into the throttle body (on my 92 toyota). On my truck, that rubber? connecting piece is coming apart and the clamp will not hold it on the throttle body very well. If it slips off, the truck will try to crank, but wont. Put the hose back on the throttle body and it cranks. The hose, about 2.5" in diameter, doesnt have to be completely removed. It can look like its on, but its not, and that is enough to cause it not to crank.

Is there any chance that you bumped this connection and a rotten/deteriorated hose broke loose from the throttle body?

Watching this thread, I've seen good suggestions given from a batch of well informed forum members....

My 4 Runner is an 88, with the 22 RE...

Don't know if you drive in real dusty or dirty conditions, but I have seen where some of those hoses going from the air filter box, over to the plenum ( SP?) for the fuel injection are possibly plugged with dirt, from over time...

I've seen where that will allow an engine to crank, but not fire and it is not breathing...an air flow issue....

years ago, had a friend, who had a Mazda that was doing the same thing....this was a really dumb thing when it was finally found the reason why....

He had parked it low on gas.... somehow a piece of paper had managed to get itself in the fuel tank...floating in the bottom on the tank, as soon as it was cranked... it would start for a second or two and then stall...

The fuel pump started pumping and it would suck the piece of paper right into the beginning of the fuel line to the engine....and clog the line...

turn it off and it would allow the paper to float around the bottom of the tank....but would suck it right back there once again when trying to start it..

even putting more fuel in the tank, that piece of paper kept floating around the bottom of the tank.. and would just stall the engine once again... after driving it a few miles...

I am sure whatever the problem is, once found, is something pretty darn simple yet hard to find..

we were working on a kid's 86 4 Runner over at the college and he was having the same issue.... when they found out what it was ( I wasn't present).. it turned out to be a loose wire down in that plumbing below the fuel injection.

best of luck...

I have had "new" rotors fail. Worked fine for a few days, then nothing. It was a bad rotor.

I don't know how you can check that, but if you still have the old rotor you can try swapping it out.



Clyde

This is just a shot in the dark, but my first instinct would be to completely disconnect the battery...then reconnect...

I know some vehicles throw codes when an electrical problem presents itself and the computer won't reset until it's completely disconnected...

Older Toyotas are very prone to grounding issues ? I had a bad ground on an 86 Four Runner it would start then the gauges would go wackey and die. Also ECM or main circuit breaker?

Some great suggestions. We were all over the air intake system. It is mechanically intact. It has to be, as the mass air flow sensor triggers the fuel pump to run.

One can manually open the flapper valve/sensor in the MAF to check for fuel flow at the fuel rail. But I did not have a pressure gauge. Fuel pressure is the first thing I asked the shop to check.

But I have not heard a word from the mechanic yet. Friday will be two weeks since I dropped the truck off.

Color me starting to get a bit impatient?

Did this toyota problem get resolved?

Am wondering too.

Not yet. As of 10/30/16, the shop had isolated the issue to injectors not pulsing.

Well, duhh. That is what I told the mechanic when I dropped the truck off on the fifteenth.

Anxiously awaiting an update!

+1

Somewhat educated guess based on my limited experience:

I believe you have an injector output stage blown in the ECU, or no RPM signal getting to the ECU. The former possibly from voltage spikes due to the loose/disconnected battery terminal with the engine running. Poor battery connectivity while the alternator is charging can wreak havoc with solid state modules.

Finally some news. Mechanic called today, said he could not get a return signal back from the ECM on the injector circuit.

I got off work early enough to make it home to retrieve a spare ECM from a recently purchased parts truck.

Will find out Monday if the pickup will run after ECM swap.

Any update??

I have a 1984 HiLux 4x4 with a straight axle.

I solved my 22R problem. It now has a Ford 302 stuffed under the hood with an Edlebrock aluminum intake, and a Holly 650 carb.

Only one minor problem.... AZ Emissions

Just crickets!

Apparently she failed to start after the computer change.

We never get follow-ups. Why do we help??

There has been little to report.

The truck has been in the shop for nine weeks and still will not start.

The mechanic replaced the ECM, and said that the injectors are now pulsing, he dicked with timing, replaced the fuel filter, replaced my brand new sparkplugs with another new set, drained the gas tank and added new 91 octane.

Yea, he is just taking shots in the dark!

He charged me for three hours labor, and the new parts.

Friday, I moved the pickup over to a different shop which I have used over the last 15 years with excellent results. This mechanic has some excellent techs, and promised to be under the hood by Wednesday morn.

Why didn't I take it here first?

The first guy is a personal friend of my SIL. And SIL is extremely good to Momma and me.

I will update with findings.

Whoever called that piccolo player a piccolo player is a mother fu cker... Just sayin. 9 weeks in the shop and that "mechanic" is still taking stabs in the dark. Holy fu ck!!!

Hope you get the mystery solved, and truck gets back on the road. I'm on my third Toyota, the first 2 bought new. The only issues with any of them was the "96", which had igniton switch, starter replaced, but it was after 255,000 miles.

Oh yes, he also put on a new coil.

My SIL has a fleet of more than twenty old diesel trucks and pickups. SIL has been averaging about $5,OOO per month in business over the last couple years with this guy, and he has given pretty good sevice on diesels from 6 liter Cummins, up to big Cat engines.

But he was out of his depth with this Toyota.

bsa1917Hunter

I have been having an on going problem with my 1988 4Runner. The Check Engine light keeps coming on. The code reader finds no codes, and even when it happens 'live' as in while driving, with a code reader hooked up, no info is forthcoming.
My mechanic is good, his equipment resources are good. His contacts with the local Toyota Dealer are good.
No one can figure it out. There seems to be no actual bad effects of the light coming on, but it's aggravating.
Two months now, and no solution. All the grounds have been double checked, and I am going nuts.

Sam
Cover it with tape!

This.

This.

One small life lesson I've learned is that sometimes the problem isn't one thing, but several. Sometimes there's been misunderstanding on top of misunderstanding, or mistake on mistake, and no one thing solves the problem.

The solution is to go back to the beginning and troubleshoot every one, one at a time. Eliminate assumptions by proving each component. Don't assume a replaced part is good, test it. This sounds like it may be compound issues or false assumptions keeping you from solving this puzzle.

FWIW.

It is in fresh hands now, and he will start from scratch.

SAM,

Mine experiences the same problem.... won't show up on the code readers, but it depends on what type of code reader.. due to the age of the vehicle, so of the code readers on the market don't have the info in them to diagnose it...at least that is what I've been told multiple times...

On mine, it is the O 2 sensor.... mines been doing this for 150K +....doesn't really seem to effect any function I need...

The Oxy 2 sensors, are 1 wire for an 87 and some 88s... the rest of the 88s have a 4 wire sensor... cost to replace the 1 wire Oxy Sensor is under $40... the one for the 4 wire is over $100...

recently had mine checked at the college auto program, and they determined the Ox2 sensor...

when the weather gets cold enough, or I am at 5,000 ft altitude or more... mine always goes out...

comes back on, when I get below 3 to 4000 ft....

I don't have to deal with any inspections here, so I just run it...hasn't effected Schitt in 150K...

If ya wanna get this squared away, if they have a local comm college with an automotive program.. I'd run it over there...

the instructors love stuff like that to assign the senior students on.... our local college ( when they do charge) is $25 for the visit...and parts... no hourly charges etc..

I've seen plenty of cars come in there for solutions after the owners have been raped by some local shop or two... the problem is found and fixed pretty cheaply...

The auto program doesn't sabotage stuff like local shops have a habit of doing around here... they put a warranty on their work and if you have to bring it back it is at no charge...

Thanks Seafire.

I will give the new mechanic a few days. We do have a community college in Ontario and I assume they have auto tech training.

That is a definite avenue to explore if the current shop does not find an answer.

I audit courses over there all the time...

Was over there a few days ago, hanging out...

some lady brought in some Subaru that she's had to multiple shops on top of the dealer over in Medford...

She had $800 + worth of receipts for all the "work" that has been spent on the 'problem' so far in the last month or so...

its an older Subie... say 2002 or 04 range...

The instructor turned it over to the students... put a scanner on it... found the problem.. verified it by showing the instructor, he concurred... ordered a $15 part....

that got dropped off in an hour... 5 minutes to put it on... reverified by putting it on the scan tool once again.. and instructor concurred....took it for a 5 minute road test... came back and re scanned... no issue...

called the lady up, to come back and pick it up...

$15 for the part and since she works at the college, no charge on labor...

Needless to say she was shocked...instructor told her, that the shops she had it to, probably could quickly figure it out... but they were just racking up a $75 to $80 an hour bill as far as they could, and not really addressing the problem... where the solution was, had nothing to do with where the shops bills had been futzing around with...

if anything else happens bring it back, they'll relook at it, and fix it again, at no charge except if any other parts are needed, but they don't view it will be needed to readdress that problem...

It's ALWAYS an O2 sensor, ain't it?

Its what has come up on mine.. but then considering its the only one that has ever been on there.. and came with the truck in Sept 1988... so is 29 years old and has 540,000 miles on it.....

yeah, I'd say the chances on mine being the 0/2 sensor is pretty good...

my mechanic is a fishing and hunting buddy, so I seriously doubt he is not being conscientious. His main machine is a top of the line Snap On gizmo, complete with it's own computer and display. Drawers full of attachments.
My scan hookup point is under the hood, near the battery. His contact at the Toyota dealer is another of our 'sportsman' group, and an old buddy of mine. He always helps.
We put in a new O2 sensor a year back. My guy thinks its the MAF. Well over 350000 miles, on the original 28 year old part.
Truck goes into the shop Monday AM. I have to drive it to Miami Wed. He says it will be good to go.

Sam, I have a Hyundai Sonata that was giving similar symptoms. No codes popping up, but running erratically. Finally after flogging the car around, it popped a MAF code. Dealer wanted $671 for one. I bought a remanufactured one for $140 and all has been good.

Put some Sea Foam in it

Ran a can through with the first tank of gas after I bought it in Oct, as propfiylaxis.

The new mechanic had the truck in his shop at 8:00 AM. It was running by 11:00 AM.

The timing chain had jumped eight teeth on the sprocket. Don't ask me how!
It is an interference engine, so the head will come off. New valves, and new timing set, estimate is $1250 and a couple more days in the ahop.

Thanks to all who offered suggestions. I read and considered every one. Many I researched further. I learned more about this motor in the last few weeks than I have in thirty years of owning and working on them.

Been following but it's been a while. How many miles? Sound like the timing chain tensioner gave up and let the chain slip.

Had the Timing chain in a 22R come completely off, ended up buying a new head.
Picked a great place to do it too, about 5 miles of dirt road from Lost Valley Reservoir.

Glad to hear they figured it out.

If your toyota wont fire check the timing chain first, it only takes a few minutes and will save alot of bs. I just did 2 different chains on 2 toyotas I have here, the plastic guides are a bad idea and if they are available get the steel guides, your mechanic will know all about it.

Holey Moley! With all the computers and such, it's easy to take the nuts and bolts for granted. PHEW! Now I can sleep at night...I imagine it's like an early Christmas present. Stuff like this drives me bonkers! Heck, I believe I would celebrate!

with regards to my old 4Runner, it may be fixed. lol
New fuel filter, sealed an air leak in the MAF sensor housing. They were able to get a code that indicated the truck was running lean. Made some adjustments.
Three days now, with no check engine light. Truck runs fine.

Can't have an air leak! Sure feels good to have that darn light off, I bet!

You mean it wasn't a ground issue ? Wow.