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I just purchased a Sako 85S Classic and plan to use Talley rings and bases. I have 2 questions: (1) does anyone "tap" the bases approximately 1/8 inch onto the dovetail receiver to secure it and (2) what torque specs do you use for securing the base screws to the dovetail receiver? I see specs on Talley's website for the split rings, but nothing on the bases. Thanks!
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Joined: Mar 2008
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I just tap them "that" much. I dont tighten the screws at all--seem useless.
Last edited by backtobethel; 02/24/17.
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Just drive them onto the taper. I use a lot of the Burris bases on Sakos, same thing. NEVER tighten the screws if they have screws, not all Burris bases have screws. If they have screws I just put a drop of nail polish on them and screw them lightly until they touch the receiver and back them out a quarter turn, just so I don't have empty screw holes. One thing that ruins a Sako are screw marks on the top of the dovetails, almost as bad as drilling a tapping a Sako.
"after the bullet leaves the barrel it doesn't care what headstamp was on the case" "The 221 Fireball is what the Hornet could have been had it stayed in school"
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Joined: Jun 2007
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Jun 2007
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Just drive them onto the taper. I use a lot of the Burris bases on Sakos, same thing. NEVER tighten the screws if they have screws, not all Burris bases have screws. If they have screws I just put a drop of nail polish on them and screw them lightly until they touch the receiver and back them out a quarter turn, just so I don't have empty screw holes. One thing that ruins a Sako are screw marks on the top of the dovetails, almost as bad as drilling a tapping a Sako. Correct, I almost bit my lip when I read "tap" in the original post!
These are my opinions, feel free to disagree.
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Joined: Feb 2017
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So just tapping the bases onto the dovetail receiver without any screws (or screws just filling the holes) is enough to keep the bases attached to the gun?? I assume you guys have done this and it works. How does something not screwed on not come loose over time? Can it really hold just being "tapped" onto the dovetail? Not doubting just want to make sure I understand correctly.
What do you use to tap it on?
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Joined: Jun 2007
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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So just tapping the bases onto the dovetail receiver without any screws (or screws just filling the holes) is enough to keep the bases attached to the gun?? I assume you guys have done this and it works. How does something not screwed on not come loose over time? Can it really hold just being "tapped" onto the dovetail? Not doubting just want to make sure I understand correctly.
What do you use to tap it on? Piece of brass, or a small brass mallet...Ausinel made tap on mounts and I cannot remember any shifting on the taper.
These are my opinions, feel free to disagree.
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Joined: Jun 2007
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Campfire Ranger
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Even with the Hilver mounts I just tapped them on then snugged up the screws.
Probably the most secure mounting system on the market.
These are my opinions, feel free to disagree.
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Joined: Apr 2008
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Campfire Regular
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Why add bases to a rifle with integral bases?
Get a set of: -optilocks ring mounts (the 1-piece mounts not the clunky 2-piece) -leupold/sako ringmounts -warne premier series (if you can find some)
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The bases do not require the locking screws to hold them onto the receiver. Look at the way they go on and the taper of the dovetail. Every time you pull the trigger, the receiver is driving backwards into the base. I've used Talley's when I couldn't find another option for 30mm scopes but strongly prefer the old Sako and Leupold direct mount rings. Just a much cleaner solution.
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There used to be Weavers without any screws. gzig5 is correct the design is to get tighter with use. I guess if you had a heavy scope, and slammed the butt really hard onto something solid, you could knock them loose. After you fixed the stock and bedding, you would have to fix the scope problem.
Last edited by Dillonbuck; 02/27/17.
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I use the Talley two piece. I use a piece of brass to tap them on. They hold zero.
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